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Things I learnt on Sunday and Monday

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' at netrider.net.au started by AngryAnt, Mar 1, 2011.

  1. 1. You can't start your bike with the kill switch on - even when trying to jump start in second gear rolling down Elgin St Carlton while dodging the Lygon Street Festival crowds.
    2. I've been riding around for a month with effectively no brake light as the globe was in upsidedown.
    3. How to open the storage compartment under the pillion seat of my Zeal - the trick is to push down and turn the key rather than pull up as the manual suggests, thanks Yamaha!
    4. How to jump start a bike with leads and a car battery.

    All in all two fun days and I really mean that!
  2. Personally I am a little anal about the rear brake light as the bike only has one, and it would only take one inattentive driver mixed with no brake light to clean me up. I try and do a quick rear brake light check every time I jump on. Takes 2s but the thought of riding around without one is a little horrific.

    That said, still ride around like it isn't working anyway. Not sure about others, but being cleaned up from the rear or side is one of my biggest concerns because it is something that is largely out of your control unless you are proactive about it.

    Anyways, back on topic :)
  3. I've started that routine now adprom - I only did the check because Hawklord gave me a "ride safe" (or something) dvd that showed you how to sit on the bike, squeeze lever and check the light reflection on your other hand - I did this and thought "that's not right, can't see nuffing!"

    Very on topic! I'm starting to try to be more aware of vehicles behind me, particularly when slowing or stopping.
  4. Yup, takes 2 seconds and can be done in the process of getting bike out etc. Even if just checking a reflection off another car etc. Or hand as you say - so many different ways that add virtually no time (without going through a whole pre bike check every time you get on it). I just have an every day process then another more exhaustive one intermittently.

    So many little things you can do to just be sure of whats behind etc. Just takes a little bit of alertness... Prevention and all that.

    Either way, make routines early because it is easier to set good ones now than try and change bad ones later.
  5. I have learnt not to listen to a friend who says 'it doesn't get cold enough in Sydney to ever need to use your choke when starting'... trying to start it 8 times before realising is a waste of effort!
  6. very dependant on the bike. One of my past bikes never needed it, current one always does, even in height of summer. It doesn't run smooth till it hits 80C. After that it's delightful.
  7. I find on my bike it WON'T start with the choke on, even if it needs it! So the key is to start and immediately rev up to about 4k and the immediately pull the choke out. Failure to do this when cold means about ten start attempts without choke and a possible flat battery.
  8. [/QUOTE]

    as devo has found out, VTR250's need a bit of choke
  9. Of my two bikes one hates choke and wants a bit of throttle and the other wants choke and won't start if you even look at the throttle. I think it's a combination of tuning and a particular bikes idosyncracies.

    Learn what your own bike likes and do that. But don't be surprised if you get a tune and what you have been doing doesn't work.

    Neither will start with the kill switch on.
  10. There are quite a lot factors affecting cold start, choke is just one of them.
    Mostly it depends on carb adjustments, e.g. carb may be set up to make a rich mixture. In this case adding choke will put too much gas and engine won't start (mixture won't burn). Adding throttle may help as it adds air. So if you engine does not start without throttle - check you carb, it may prepare mixture that is too rich. Which is no good for fuel consumption and sparks.
  11. Thanks GreyBM and SkyDance. I know the bike needs some adjustments to the carbies - planning to get that looked at on the next service.
  12. Or another spanner day.
  13. Can you do my cam-chain tensioning as well? I'll buy youse a beer

  14. They're all different. The 14 is injected and fires up perfectly first time every time. It does take a moment to realise it needs fast idle at initial start up, so I manually hold it at about 3k for a couple of seconds and then it settles into a 2k idle. Otherwise, it initially settles into a lumpy 800rpm idle for the first few seconds, which is probably murder on the cams and buckets.

    Lesson from hotted up cars, and bikes. Don't let an engine idle slowly when it's dead cold. Lower mid revs will get oil up to the cams and tappets and lifters and rockers and such, much faster than a slow idle, and having a little rotational speed will make best use of the remaining oil film that clings to the cams and lifters from the last time it was run. This is obviously less of an issue with standard cams and valve springs, but the principal remains.

    Original Shelby AC Cobras come to mind, as one car that could destroy its cam and lifters in seconds if you started it like a pussy. ... They also flooded pretty easy, and some of the damage may well have happened during cranking. The auto ones had a rough cammy idle at about 1,500 with almost no manifold vacuum. That meant no brake boost. That meant they could creep at red lights while you stood on the brake with both feet, rear wheels chirping slightly as the engine hunted... As Shelby himself remarked, not a silk purse, but a hell of a fast pig.
  15. Injectors do not have choke :)