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The Top 5...

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by JenStarlette, Dec 10, 2006.

  1. Pro's and noobs all alike..

    What are the top 5 maintenance tools you use to maintain your baby in the garage..

    Rear stands, Pressure guages etc..

  2. 1. eyes
    2. ears
    3. nose
    4. tyre pressure guage (kept in jacket pocket).
    5. Meguiars Polish.

    1 - 3 used everytime I'm near/on the bike , 4 once a week , 5 usually once a week too.
  3. lets see, the most common maintenance tasks, aside from cleaning (a rare event @ JJ's garage) would be tyre pressure and general tyre condition
    checking, chain/sprocket checking and chain adjusting, oil and filter changing, air filter cleaning, spark plug checking /adjusting (rarer now that I use iridium plugs). My bike has carbies, so checking the balance is fairly regular.

    A goos tyre gauge should always live on the bike somewhere IMHO, so if you ever need to put some air into the tyres on an extended trip, you can be sure of the right pressure (never trust the servo gauges) so no need to include that

    So... top tools for me...

    1. socket set to suit the bit's your fiddling with, except the rear axle bolt, a 1/4" set is good enough (1/2' drive + breaker bar for the axle bolt), good set of ring/open end combo's for the rest.

    2. Pliers, to remove/replace cotter pins, tie wire, cable ties etc.

    3. Some way of lifting either wheel off the ground, I use a small trolley jack and stands.

    4. Screw drivers and vacuum gauges for the carbies

    5. Something to dump old oil into, and something to put new oil in with. I use a cut up empty milk or oil container as a drip tray, and a cut up small soft drink bottle as a funnel to put the new stuff in. Rags to clean up the mess.

    With that lot, you should be able to keep a bike in top notch condition.

  4. my list of 'essentials' or at least 'more usefuls' includes:

    - good (made from chrome vanadium steel) socket set (for me, 1/2" drive going from 8mm to 24mm)
    - set of good (again, chrome vanadium steel) allen keys. try to either get t-handles or ones with long shafts.
    - set of good (chrome vanadium steel) spanners. the standard 8 or 9 piece 8-19mm set should be fine
    - set of good (you guessed it, chrome vanadium) screwdrivers, cross and flat point, of varying lengths and sizes. a 7-10 multipack will probably do.
    - something to get the rear wheel off the ground (for chain lubrication, adjustment). i usually use a block of wood under engine / header pipes or a jack stand. race stand would be good, but i'd much rather spend the money on other good tools.

    a good tyre pressure gauge is essential - take all your reading with the same one, so at least it will be consistant. a track pump can be handy too, so you don't need to go to the local servo to inflate your tyres.


  5. oh yeah.. the allen keys, very important to have a good quality set, otherwise they really fark up your fairing bolts. :cry:
  6. Can't emphasise the import of a decent quality socket set. It doesn't have to be the dearest, it just shouldn't be crap.

    When undoing a nut/bolt the priority of tools should be:
    1. Socket
    2. Ring spanner
    3. Spanner
    4. Shifter

    For bikes, buy an allen key set that folds up like a pen-knife. That way you can carry it on a bike. You can get these with a cheese head and phillips head screw driver in them too.

    Rags and an oil pan also come in handy.

    Also, try to work clean. Wash your bike before you start and wash the parts as you take them off.

    It sounds silly, and I used to scoff at this advise, but once you start doing it you will realise how much more pleasant and easier the experience becomes.
  7. i'm surprised number 4 is even there! out of interest, why is a ring spanner better than an (open ended) spanner? more points of contact? my ring spanners are 12 points, and i always got the impression they put more pressure (smaller surface of contact due to small points) than the open enders, which increased the risk of nut damage. i could well be wrong though.


    EDIT: oh, forgot about the allen key tool - i've always found these to be shite and difficult to work with. if you only need two or three allen keys (for me, 5&6mm), then i find it easier to just carry these and a screw driver. probably lighter and doesn't take up that much more space.
  8. A ring spanner grips on every "flat" of the nut/bolt, it doesn't "spread" as it is far stronger than an open ender.

    Open enders will spread slightly when used, even the strongest ones. The tighter the bolt/nut, the more it spreads, the more it will "round off" the hex.

    It's not the pressure as such, but the stability of the pressure you put onto the hex bolt or nut, sockets are the most stable, then ring, then rings spanners with a small slot in them to go on brake lines etc, then open enders, then the various adjustables.

    Shifters, when used correctly are OK, but as a last resort.
  9. Go the slabby!!

    seen this site? http://www.oldskoolsuzuki.info/
  10. Not only that, ring spanners are less likely to slip. They are also handy for making allen keys longer.

    Sometimes shifters are a neccessary evil. e.g. if you are undoing a nut and bolt that have the same size heads.

    Unfortunatly most are pretty crap and have heaps of free play in the jaws. Even the good ones shold be a last priority.
  11. Actually it's an 1127 and yeah that site is pretty cool
  12. the most important tool of all is information
    the correct manual for your bike is second to none

    too many times have i seen people destroy perfectly good motorcycles just because "my friend told me that..." or "it worked on my last bike..."