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The No.1 Top tip for new riders

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by nice2Bnaked, Mar 10, 2007.

  1. I have a way to best prevent any motorcycle related injuries.

    Go and buy safety gear before you buy your bike... Simple. Too many a time the attitude is that you have taken out a $6000 loan, to cover bike and gear. You see an appealing bike for $4000 on road leaving you $2000 to spend on gear. So what happens when you see a better one for $5500, and you just have to have it? you dont have enough for decent gear...

    The attitude is usually: "Oh, its ok, I'll save up and get gear soon, I'll just be careful and ride my new shiny bike until i get the cash..."

    Unfortunately, the most important time to have gear is when your new to riding. So do yourself a favour... Heres a good price allowance for gear, before you look at bikes:

    Helmet (must have, duh) You can get cheap ones for under $100 new, but its your head, your gunna need it. DONT EVER buy second hand helmets, unless your going to send it away to be checked. One drop and it could be stuffed. Get your dealer to help fit you out, they know what theyre doing.
    Spend at least $180.

    Gloves. One of the most common surgical procedures for motorcyclists is amputated fingers/toes. A decent pair of gloves is going to cost you between $70 to $200. Just becouse their leather, doesnt mean its bulletproof. Go for the ones with kevlar inserts in high stress areas, such as the palm and areas along the side of the hand under your little finger, down to your wrist. Armour is great as well. Pretty much any crash, on the freeway or in your garage is going to have you make contact with the ground with your hands, so its very important. Motorcross gloves are no good for the road, unless you think its cool to have "FOX" melted into your hand for the rest of your life. Make sure the glove is comfortable and cant be pulled off your hand.

    Jacket. You cant go past leather. But oils aint oils. Your Gucci jacket wont do anything but look nice sliding down the road, so go for a proper riding jacket. You can get jackets in all sorts of synthetic materials, for summer and winter. Make sure a jacket has armour inserts in the shoulder and elbows, and even better if it has a back protector (which alternatively can be purchased seperately.) A good jacket for street use will be as little as $250, but look around. Second hand is OK, but thouroughly check it over for weak/torn stitching/zippers.

    Pants. Gone are the days of leather chaps, unless you ride a harley. You probably wont be sliding your knees yet, so a race suit or pants might be expensive, however a great investment. You can now get a large range of caual bike pants with kevlar inserts in stress areas, from companies like Draggin Jeans. These look like normal jeans, but offer protection from painful road rash. Your normal jeans, though better than shorts and trackies, dont really do much. You can get a whole suit that zips to your jacket as well. Kevlar inserted jeans are about $190.

    Boots. Most work boots are ok, so long as theyre leather and cover the ankle. Steel toe is good and bad, given that it can heat up really quick. Motorcycle boots allow the rider neccisary movement to operate the bike, but restrict unnatural movement experienced in a crash. Boots can cost as little as $100. Make sure they wont come off no matter how hard you pull on them.

    Thats easily under $1000 to save yourself alot of greif. You will find that having decent gear will also allow you to ride more confidently. Hopefully you will never have to need protective gear, but be prepared. Even a trip to the shops for milk can be enexpectadly dangerous.

    Ride Safely, watch out for Taxi's.
  2. He he... I should have saved the fingers. :shock:
  3. Search is our friend Naked, it pays to check first cos most topics come up on a regular basis.

    But that was a really good post all the same [​IMG]
  4. Bollocks, leave him alone.

    It is good to see a second opinion and information about what gear suits what style of rider. And it is a refreshing change from the usual first 20 something posts of new members, of "I'm so fast" "I lost my license" "I dropped my bike" "Ur wheelies is Grarbage!" and "Is my 2 stroke good for touring?"...

    +1 Nice2B for giving a damn...
  5. Gee, im still new and already causing a ruckus... Good? bad? I dont know... I had a look at the sticky threads, and its not very in depth (sorry). I just know how hard it was a a new rider to check out what new gear was availiable or what was good to wear. I only found out that jeans wernt a good idea after I was picking denim outta my leg. Sorry about the long posts (see maintainace/appearance "THIS IS HOW YOU CLEAN YOUR BIKE" for example)
  6. Good post, it was a good read and everyone can do with a refresher.

    Thanks for the info bud
  7. Good post, only thing you have said that is ivalid is "spend at least $180" on a helmet.

    Please tell me how that $100 helmet is not as good or better than the $180 helmet?

    The price sticker will not determine how well (or not) it protects your head.

    If I see XYZ helmet for sale in a shop for $160, well the same helmet could be for sale in another shop for $185, does this mean the cheaper one should be avided. You get the drift.

    I suggest when looking for a lid, aquaint yourself with the various standards that apply to helmets, things like DOT and SNELL. All helmets in Oz will (must have) approval by Australian Standards, thats the little silver metallic sticker on the back with AS and some ticks on it, but the Australian standard for helmets isn't that stringent.
  8. 160 is far from 100 and close to 180..
  9. Yeah helmet price isn't always an indication of quality. For example a $180 helmet could just be a 100 buck one with 80 bucks worth of fancy graphics - in which case you may be far better off with a plain coloured helmet selling for say $150. Not too mention the fact that helmets may also be reduced heavily in price simply because they're last years model/colours - generally doesn't make them any worse in terms of protection than the current model though.
    Edit: Should also point out that although Draggins do offer some protection against abrasion unless you get the optional armour inserts you've still got zero protection against impact - so they're still a compromise of comfort over safety compared to leather or even cordura.
  10. thanks for tha t dude, but i am a 'soon-to-be' learner rider.... with much luck i will be a new addition to learning sat. this week.

    do you have any , like, tips n opinion on helping soon-to-be learner riders , for their test, without stating the obvious like, don't be nervous ,or listen to instructor? i am sitting mine on sat. in 6days, any help will be helpful to me i am keen on really passing easy and not just scrape through, so any information will be helpful to me!
  11. Just relax and enjoy the experience :grin:
  12. Have confidence in your abilities.

  13. $100 helmet will usually be a polycarbonate with a non removable liner make out of cheap and nasty materials.

    The fiberglass ones usually start around $200 with removable liners

    $250 should start to see the cheaper composites

    Just one point.. helmet gloves and boots are the three most important items to buy. Helmet protects your head, gloves protect your hands which are quite fragile, and anyone who has hurt their ankle will verify what it's like to have a stuffed ankle. If you can't afford to buy proper boots but are buying draggins or similar, skip the draggins and protect you ankles first. Work boots (ie blundstones) are NOT ok.

    Then jacket, the armour will protect you( make sure it's hard CE approved)
    Then pants, to save you skin

    Unfortunately when most people come off they hit something (apart from the ground) good armour is very important.
  14. Nice post there, this topic hasn't been stressed enough and I do hope that everyone can take this seriously.

    At first I was quite ignorant about wearing gear but after reading some horror stories I decide to start looking around for gear and make sure I have everything before even thinking about stepping onto a bike.

    Here's a link to an article thats written by this chick who survived a crash with no gear on suffering road rash over 55% of her body... Poor thing...

  15. :shock:


    *Time to look for another girlfriend.*

  16. :-# :shock: omg!! thats so bad!!

    I am now going to read more into some bike gear! :?
  17. I think it would be hard to find a DOT aproved helmet in a legitimate bike store... And if it was a legit store, they probably wouldnt rip you off for a crappy plastic helmet. Best bet is stick with the brands... They might be expensive but you keep em for a while. I was doing courier work and only changed my lid twice in a year cos they were getting a bit loose.
    Good helmets have the features, poor ones are the bare minimum to pass standards. I found that out by riding to sydney in my first $100 helmet in winter. Not cool (or very).
    Oh, and Armour is important, I agree. $20 will see your knees covered in the Draggin soft armour, but you can order Dainese armour which is great.[/quote]
  18. Just a heads up on steel toe inserts - good until they get crushed. When they get crushed - so do your toes - and unlike a boot without they don't just get flattened, they get chopped off. :(

    Has happened to a direct friend :(
  19. Go watch the Mythbuster's episode where they tested this.

    Not that most steel caps provide enough ankle support to help with those sorts of injuries (which riding boots do help with), but anyway... pretty much if you crushed the steel to the point it chopped your toes off, they were going to be crushed beyond repair without the steel caps.