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The Baby Bandit

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by shidoran, Feb 2, 2014.

  1. Thanks guys. Will be starting a thread in a moment as I need some help.

    Cjvfr I think it does, the guy who sold it to me was pretty honest but the bike didn't cost me much so I was prepared to take a small gamble.

    An auto elec has looked at it, no problems apart from needing a replacement stator which I'm thinking can be sourced from a wreckers cheaply. So once I put the carbies back on, fix the ignition wiring, replace the stator, install a new airbox, put a new battery, oil and fuel in her I'm pretty sure we'll be right to go.

  2. Hope so, take a multimeter along to check the windings are intact.

    Try http://www.vicwreck.com.au/ and see if they have one, good luck. :)
  3. #3 shidoran, Feb 2, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 2, 2014
    Don't know if the photo is going to work (never used flikr before) but am after a bit of help.

    Trying to get the baby bandit back on the road, but when I got it it seems the ignition wiring was disconnected to the coils. The only wiring diagram I have is from the GSF400 not the 250 so I am assuming they are very similar (they at least look similar).
  4. How do you check that with a multimeter?
  5. [​IMG]

    Hopefully this works. Stupid thing times out every time I try to get all of my photos here...

    Wiring diagram from the 400.

    Fuse box


    Ignition coil LHS. are the two wires (orange/white and white) correct?


    Ignition coil RHS. Are the two wires (orange/white and blue(or black)/yellow correct?

    Appreciate any help with this one.
  6. There are three leads coming off the stator, measuring with the resistance option you should get the same (or near to) reading from 1-2 2-3 3-1 it should be low in resistance 0 - 2 ohms.

    Then check from each of the windings to the frame bolts on the stator. All three windings should be Open Circuit/Infinite Resistance.
  7. Awesome thanks for the help. I'll have to get a multimeter (have been meaning to anyway) and test the current stator which is apparently buggered. If you don't mind me hitting you up via PM to make sure I diagnose this correctly I'd be really appreciative :)
  8. [​IMG]

    Stator definitely looks burned out to me. Thoughts?
  9. #9 cjvfr, Feb 2, 2014
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2014
    Sure, if you like, if you post here though others can participate as well.

    Added Later:

    Yes that looks stuffed.
  10. [​IMG]

    Well, it's giving me consistent readings across the three phases... and also nothing on the short test on each phase:


    It seems OK, despite looking a little dirty. Is there a reason there would be oil in the stator cover? Is there meant to be a bolt holding the flywheel on to prevent that or something?
  11. May be a little oil it shouldn't matter much.

    The next step would be to do a Open circuit running voltage test. Re-assemble the alternator and unplug it from the regulator. Start the bike and carefully measure the AC (Important not DC) voltage from phase to phase. 1-2 2-3 3-1 you should get about 50volts or so across each and they should be similar in voltage.

    You will need to rev the bike to approx 4k while doing this so enlist a beautiful assistant or an ugly mate to rev while you measure.
  12. Yes I will do that, thanks. I think the flywheel needs replacing first though, one of the magnets is gone (no idea where) and two are loose. I could attempt to glue them back on but I'll never be able to get a single magnet on its own to replace the missing one.
  13. Sorry if this is a repeat, the search function doesn't seem to work so not sure if there is another thread on this.

    I found this video and was looking at at the two coils on the bandit.

    There is a difference though, there are two individual wires to each coil and two spark plug leads from each coil. So I went about the test (targeting 3-5 Ohms at the primary side) and both were fine.

    When I went to the secondary side I got nothing. Tried both connections on the coils to either spark plug lead (multimeter set at 20k). Does this mean both secondary coils are bad? I'm a bit sceptical both of them being bad, I would have thought I'd get at least one reading...? or am I doing it wrong?
  14. The coil case or mounting lugs would be the other side of the secondary (HT) winding. Measure between the plug wire terminal and the mounting lugs.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  15. I could be wrong as I have very limited experience with motorcycle ignition.
    Have a look at the coil mounting, does it have a metal bracket or tab that is earthed to the frame or engine?
    If so, you'd need to measure between that and the plug lead terminal for the secondary (HT = High Tension) winding.
    The coil is a transformer, say 100 turns of heavier wire on the 12V primary (LT = Low Tension) side and 5000 turns of much finer wire on the secondary side.

    The two are windings isolated from one another by insulation.

    Here is a simple diagram of the arrangement (ignore the tap labelled 4)

    So you can see there would be a low resistance DC path, perhaps 0-10 ohms on the primary, and a higher resistance DC path for the secondary.
    One end of the secondary winding is the spark plug lead terminal, the other is likely to be the mounting point to the frame or engine. The other two terminals are the 12V connection for the primary winding.
  16. Thanks mate, that is very helpful. I think I get it now. I'll have a closer look tomorrow when I can get some light on the bike. Each ignition coil has two spark plug leads from it so if I read what you're saying correctly I have to test from the mounting bolt to the end of each lead...
  17. From memory you test plug cap to plug cap on the GSXR/Bandit. There should be a resistance of 40 ohms (from memory), but check the workshop manual to confirm.

    If it's not right it can cause the bike to fire a lot stronger on one of the two cylinders. Been there, done that.
  18. well according to this http://www.synapse.ne.jp/s-hara/bandit/ban-spece.html#spec it says 13-18 kOhms but it only says "plug code side". I tried between the two plugs but the multimeter (set on 20k) flashes a number somewhere between 13-18 kOhms but I can't seem to make it stabilize on a number. Wiggling the contacts around I can get it to flash different numbers still within the range though. Strange...?
  19. Ibast is correct. You measure from plug cap to plug cap. However the resistance is usually much higher than 40 ohms. More like 40k ohms. The coil itself can have somewhere between 4-8k ohms, and each plug cap can have between 5-15k ohms each. If it measures open circuit between the caps, unscrew the caps from the H/T leads & measure them all separately. It's more likely to be a dodgy cap than the coil.