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Temperamental FZR250

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by say_wat, May 3, 2008.

  1. So i bought an fzr, it wasn't running but it is now *phew* i think it was something blocking or choking the carbies... after pulling it out and checking all the fuel lines etc, it started working (I didn't give carbies a clean coz i couldn't get the bloody carby screws off - going to go the injector cleaner route first).

    My problem is that the bike smokes like a MOFO! the smoke smells like a 2 stroke lawnmower, so i'm assuming it is burning oil... i dont see any oil in the radiator, nor do i see any oil dripping anywhere. What should be the first thing to look at to diagnose/stop all that smoke?

    A second problem is that it just shuts off out of no where... when i come to a stop, or after revving it, going forward and stopping. Sometimes it'll shut even if i put it into gear from idle - clutch still in !!

    PS: I'm planning on changing oil filter and oil in the next few days (as soon as assignments and exams are over). Would this help much?
  2. Best case scenario - someone's overfilled the oil.
    However also possible that it's worn piston rings or valve seals/guides - a compression check should be able to identify which one. If that's the case it's a sign the engine is simply worn out, so options are either rebuild/replace the engine - or keep topping up the oil and ride it till something goes bang (hopefully not killing you in the process).
    So changing the oil (making sure to fill it to the right level) would be a good start.
  3. Yammy Fzr's smoke real bad when the valve stem seals let go! You could try dropping the header pipes off and looking on the back of the valves, that will tell you! Black cruddy mess on the back of the valves!

    Does it smoke real bad on first start up then disappear? or is constant plumes of smoke?
    What is the engine oil like? black and charred looking? when was it last serviced?

  4. :cry: Thanks guys for the replies... Well i took her for a bit of an extended ride today for the first time - it was utter HELL lol. She kept stopping even after the blipping, and take off is a headache because the revs are so variable sudden jolts of power and power reduction (perhaps exup related?). The idle is set very high (around 2.5 - can't tell as it starts at 3) just to remedy the stalling issue but i don't think it helps much. I'm assuming that the bike is flooding when coming to a stop - as either it'll stop fully or the throttle will become totally unresponsive and it'll barely sputter along as if starved for petrol even if i'm rolling the throttle fully ... I'm sure that's a carby issue and can be remedied with a full clean and a balancing (i hope?).

    Most importantly, the smoke is going to give me cancer! It smokes a LOT when first started and keeps smoking even after its warmed up. Once i ride off it seems to smoke much less (but it doesn't stop i can see the tiniest bit at the lights) i can still smell it (the strong lawnmower smell :eek:) at the lights although it reduces visibally. I had to park on the footpath today, poor people that were walking past at that time were probably getting suffocated.

    I'm hoping its just the valve stems (cheaper?) rather than worn pistons or something expensive... :cry: No idea when it was last serviced but i will be giving it a service soon. Where exactly do i look once i take the headers off Ozzyfzr?

    OH God, the r1 is so much easier to deal with ... >.<

    PS: What is the approximate skill level required in changing the Valve Stem Seals (considering i can do basic valve clearence checks etc) - what about the cost at a mechanics...?
  5. Into the exhaust port, is where you look!
    As for your performance pulling away issue, definately sounds like your fuel pump is cactus!
    Mine did the same, Yamaha wanted $450 for a new one, I went to supercheap and bought a $70 Repco one for Carburetted cars, it works a treat.(subtle mounting modification - and wiring modification) just crimp bullet connectors on leads instead of standard plug! easy as!

    To check that your fuel pump is working, turn on ignition and it should prime for approx 5sec then turn off automatically from ignitor box, when you hit the starter it should start pumping again. To check repeatedly, ignition on then kill switch off and on several times, each time you turn to "on" the pump should run for approx 5 secs, when the motor is running the pump will cut in and out as needed to keep the float bowls full! it has it's inbuilt pressure switch to cut-off, what mine was doing would turn off then not turn back on as the pressure dropped, slight tap on side of pump and away it would go!
    The fuel pump is located between the tank and battery under the frame near the back of the tank.(sandwiched between lower section of tank and battery)
    Hope it helps.
  6. Hey Ozzzy, The pump seems to be working fine last time i checked - it turns on all the time, even at failed attempts at starting hehe. It makes noise as if its working, it pushes the fuel as well so i'm 95% sure its working - can't be sure if its working adequately though (i.e. pushing the required volumes of fuel at the required times?).