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Temperamental CBR600F

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by The Godfather, Sep 12, 2005.

  1. HELP - I have a CBR600 (2000 model) with an attitude. The bike starts first go all the time HOWEVER, when it hasn't been ridden for a week or so it starts and then dies a minute later for no apparent reason. When you try to rev it to keep it running, it sounds like it is running on only 3 cylinders. If you can keep it running for a couple of minutes it will go fine for as long as it is ridden regularly. Otherwise, it will not restart again until it cools down again (lets say 30 minutes) and again, once started will run fine for as long as it is ridden every day. Before you ask - I have already replaced the battery.

    Any advise will be appreciated. :?

  2. is this bike EFI?

    any unusual engine/exhaust sounds?
  3. Carbed model (the last of...).

    No unsusual sounds other than the funny 3 cylinder type of puff puff (if that makes any sense). I should add that the bike runs beautiful when ridden daily (it's just when I go on leave that it does this).
  4. Hmm sounds like the battery son ( remember that add )

    No i'd be getting the compression tested , sounds like one cyl might have a sticky valve or something of that nature ?

    I had and old GPZ that if it didn't start and keep running by the 3rd try it got put away till tmw. and the compression was so low that even the good old can of compression ( aerostart) [not recommended unless you know what your doing] ) didn't help unless it was in the mood to run.

    :) :evil: :)
  5. It sounds a bit fuel-related (but could be electrical, too).
    I'd hop into the next Caltex servo, get a bottle of fuel-injector cleaner and use half a bottle on the next full tank of juice. Repeat with the other half and the subsequent fill-up.
    Yup, it's a carb model, I know.
    Did wonders with the Peg, as when we bought the bike it'd stood around for a long time and everything was a bit gummy/ grundgy. Instable idle/ temperamental starting, all that...2 bottles of the good-juice fixed it (without tearing the bloody carbs down, which is a job-and-a-half on that bike).
  6. Bad fuel? (mentioned already)
    --> Fill it up with some good stuff and run injector/carby cleaner through it.
    Carby's a little mucked/clogged up? (mentioned already)
    --> same as above. Possibly need a pull down and clean depending how bad it is.
    Carby's fallen out of balance?
    --> time for a carby tune & clean whilst your at it.
    Spark plugs old/fouled? (How long since it's last plug change? Been for a good blat recently?)
    --> might be time for a fresh set of plugs... or atleast time to check their condition.

    With an FZR, i learnt pretty quickly to pick up on carby and fueling issues. ;)

    PS. Never got a chance to thank you again Glitch for the lift on the Strom after my poor fizzer konked out. Thanks again. :D :D :D
  7. yeh, I'd be thinking along the lines of clogged carbs and fouled plugs if it runs fine normally

    perhaps you should hold out for this: :D
  8. I'm not soure about the 2000 model but I do think the older models had issues with their colis?? But try the fuel addetives as well as changing the sparkplugs and air filter... also when was it last time the bike was serviced and tuned??
  9. If you run it on Optimax, I suggest giving the fuel system a clean out...I had problems with that in my '93....

    :D :D :D
  10. I vote the fuel too. 3 things:

    1. fuel goes off. Leaving it for a while causes this problem.
    2. Optimax exagerates this.
    3. The result is fouled plugs.

    The trick is not to run Optimax and run it on choke just untill it fires. Then keep the revs up with the throttle until it's warm. This helps prevent fouling the plugs

    You may need to replace your plugs, because I found that they didn't clean up. though you mention that it's fine if you run it reguly, so it may be Ok on your bike.

    I used to run it on reserve for a few k's if I let it sit for a while. the theory was the bad fuel would be at bottom of the tank. I don't know if I was deluding myself. But this is risky as you might draw junk into your carbies. It depends how confident you are in pulling the float bowls off.
  11. OK, lets make it simple:

    - Dont use Optimax on carb bikes...
    - Check the carb for that bank of cyliner to ensure it is not blocked or that the butterfly is not sticking/clogging
    - Check the spark plugs
    - Check the plug leads and heads - one maybe slightly faulty and improves when heated
    - When was the last service on the bike????
    - It is not the battery

    Good luck
  12. Or, perhaps, on SOME carbed bikes, cos I've used Optimax often on the VFR and never had any problems with it at all.

    It looks like some bikes are more sensitive to some PULP fuels than others, perhaps some person with a lot of time on their hands could troll (!!!) through previous threads and find out all the bikes that are, or perhaps start a new thread asking for people whose bikes have had probs with Optimax.

    It is mentioned here often I know, perhaps some definitive list would be good.
  13. This is not a fuel problem guy/girls read the post properly , if it was fuel it would do it every time and it runs fine IF he can keep it going, and it WONT restart while HOT ..... its most likly valve and or compresion related while cold the compresion on the on dickie cyl will be down but enough to start and run ( if its in the mood ) but once its hot and shut down the heat expansion will have opened up that valve more reducing the compresion to a point where starting wont be possable till its all cooled down AS HE STATES .

    True it is very hard to diagnose a problem with out seeing or hearing the bike, but b4 he goes mucking around cleaning carbys or riding a few tanks of different fuel through.

    It should take no less than an hr to check the comp 1st

    but what would I know i've only been a mechanic for the past 20 years

    :LOL: :p :LOL:
  14. OK. Tried to re-start the 'biatch' (the bike that is) yesterday and this morning and no go. It's definetely not the battery.

    The fuel is an interesting one. I normally did run 98 RON (sometimes Optimax) and found the cold starts a bit temperamental but the last full tank of juice (which was only 50 kms ago) was Shell 95 RON. I'm inclined towards a blocked carb or perhaps the plugs (Bob - your suggestion sounds very expensive and I'm an optimist by nature!) but my mechanical skilss are, well, rooted. So my next question is how do I get the biatch (the bike that is) to Peter Stevens (yeah I know. Bu they have been servicing my bike for years. Ha - yes, it is regularly serviced and it is up to it's 42,000 km service) without a trailer? I suppose I could hire one.

    Thanks for the advice people. I feel love again...
  15. Out of left field here, but cars that are hard to start when they are hot usually have a valve timing problem. What determines that in a bike engine? The ECU?
  16. Calvin at MTS is the man for your bike transport

  17. People - The source of the problem has been found (I hope) - the Fuel pump is rooted. Other that, or Peter Stevens will be rooted.....