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Tank sealing and rust preventing

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by ageg, Mar 7, 2013.

  1. Hey peeps.

    Just wondering if anyone in the past has attempted a tank repair that has considerable rust and has actually created a couple of small holes?.



    Long story short. I have a spada tank, it's rusting a bit on the inside and after stripping it down I have found pin hole leaks along the seams of the tank causing very small amount of petrol to start leaking out. Now after inspecting the inside the tank looks rusty and needs fixing pretty quick before its in repairable.

    I have searched here and only really came up with a thread of about 6 years old. Was after some guidance of what to do. I was thinking if using some liquid metal on the outside along the seams to seal it up and using a rust peroxide to rid the inside of rust then some kind of rust sealant.

    Is it too late to do this and should I just chuck it in and buy another tank for $250 (bit too rich for me)?. I'm willing to give it a shot myself and try to save some $$$. So if anyone has some tips and also some products they could recommend that would be great!!

    Thanks
     
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  2. I haven't used a kit, but I thought they included a sealer to be used after the rust removal part was done.
     
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  3. Yeah some do. But I'm not too sure if is usable on a surface that has already rusted though a bit...
     
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  4. How much for a secondhand tank from a wrecker then? Might be worth it to save ongoing hassle.
     
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  5. I'm kind of figuring this out myself at the moment for a tank of mine except I have no holes and a new tank is $1000,my local MC store advised
    http://www.kreem.com/fueltankliner.html
    Give KREEM a email, as its seems those kits are liquid based and more a preventative, I think your rite doing external body work maybe the go
     
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  6. Have 2 tanks lined with kreem, and it works very well. I didn't have any pin holes to cover, but they do mention it on their website: "prevents leakage from hairline cracks and seam pinholes".

    cheers
    ian
     
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  7. Did you kreem in your tank or did someone else do it for you?
     
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  8. I used kreem on the tank of my old zzr, which was rusted with a few pinhole leaks. I bodged the job - it was a hot day, so all the sealant pooled at the bottom of the tank. Not great when it was the bottom seams that were rusted. It still held for about 18 months or so.

    From memory, the kit was around $60, so if you can get a paint matched tank for $250 it's probably a better option. A lined tank doesn't look great when it comes time to sell.

    Random thought - does the spada have a fuel filter? If not, stick one in. Rust and carbs don't get on.
     
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  9. #10 gunissan, May 23, 2013
    Last edited: May 23, 2013
    No direct experience with resealing a tank, but for what it's worth I have read several times that Kreem doesnt like the ethanol that's in the fuel nowadays, and that a better product to use is POR15, like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Por-15-M...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd071cb8f

    Good luck!

    Ross.

    Edit: See this for manufacturs product page http://www.por15.com/CYCLE-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/CTRK/

    See this for Australian distributor/stockist details http://ppcco.com.au/wherevic.htm
     
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  10. No direct experience with resealing a tank, but for what it's worth I have read several times that Kreem doesnt like the ethanol that's in the fuel nowadays, and that a better product to use is POR15

    Well, the obvious response here would be 'don't use ethanol petrol'. I've never put this in any of my bikes, because of their age and other issues with it. Does anyone use ethanol? I wouldn't know where to look for it.

    I haven't used the POR15 sealer, but all their other stuff works as advertised. May be a better option?

    You can do it yourself, just takes time and patience.

    cheers
    ian
     
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