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Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by ex-static, Apr 9, 2010.
any1 know about tank cleaning/lining products?.. which are the best and where to get them?
get them at many bike shops.
Quite expensive for what they are.
3 steps in kit. Basically:
- acetone to clean the tank (so don't get it on your paint)
- Phosphoric acid to further clean and convert any rust
- Epoxy coating.
hmmm lethal shit
This is a method my Tafe teacher told me about, his son races motocross professionally and does this to every second hand bike he gets regardless of its condition.
The clean out is 1/4 fill with diesel fuel and nuts/bolts.. shake her up to remove rust (there's many ways of doing this)
Then he gets some paint used by builders to seal the concrete foundations under a house, preventing moisture from getting in..
Stick about a litre or two in the tank, cover the filler and shake it up.. then open the filler and leave it hanging upside down to drip out for 24 hours.
Once dry it should have a nice THICK coating in there that is not only rust proof, but will never break down from fuel/addatives and won't flake off.
Not sure where to get this concrete sealer but its supposed to be quite cheap.
Or you could just do it the traditional way .. still get the same result
thanks guys, (diesel & tar sounds like a good DIY remedy) but i've done some homework and found KBS coatings to have the best dedicated motorcycle tank sealer product.
Way, way better than a single pack coating, guaranteed cure. Sticks to oxidised metals very well (in fact, prefers a slightly porous surface).
This epoxy coating thins out when it gets hotter, if you leave the tank in the sun, the epoxy will have the consistency of water. It also retains it's strength if it pools in the bottom of the tank (all liners pool in the bottom) and because it is a two part liquid, it will cure no matter how thick it is, unlike single pack systems that need evaporation to cure. Single pack liners can also crack and craze if left too thick in one area (like pooling) which will lead to liner failure.
The amount sold above will do a huge tank with some left over, or two small tanks.
Phosphoric acid is available at Super Cheap etc as "Metal Prep" or similar. Definitely use it as a last step before the liner, just follow the instructions on the bottle for mixing etc. The smallest bottle you can buy will do just fine.
Acetone is way too strong a solvent for cleaning fuel tanks in my opinion, too dangerous for the exterior finish and likely to soften any existing tank sealers around the welded seams, I prefer something like Prepsol and let it sit for a bit. Don't be stingy with which ever solvent you use either, one litre at a time, shake it up, rinse and repeat at least twice.
The best advice I can give is to make sure the tank sits open and thoroughly dries between each step or you will have problems.
If you have any pinholes (and some may appear after a good cleaning) tape the outside with masking tape. You can also use masking tape for the petcock and fuel gauge holes, but make sure it's stuck well!
Do it all properly and by the book, give everything plenty of time in between steps.
The only thing worse than a leaking tank is a tank with a failed liner, and it is a much, much worse problem to fix.
Relining my tank is something I have been thinking about for a bit because the existing coating is starting to break down and flake.
The stuff I have read mostly talks about getting rid of rust and I am unsure if they are referring to a completely uncoated tank.
Does anyone know if the various commercial solutions can be used over an existing coating?
The acetone step is meant to disolve any existing coating, but if it's an epoxy base you will need to soak for a long time.
Agree with the above about acetone being harsh on external paint, but that is what you get in a standard kit. They don't warn you enough IMO.
"If you have any pinholes (and some may appear after a good cleaning) tape the outside with masking tape. You can also use masking tape for the petcock and fuel gauge holes, but make sure it's stuck well!"
I am currently at this stage, using a M.C.S kit (same as K.B.S. at a glance) where I have run through a chemical cleaner twice (until the water ran clear afterwards), then ran the rust prep through, all with a link of chain inside. At this point the pinholes have appeared alongside the seam near a petcock.
I was think of applying an epoxy to the holes and the weakened area on the outside after sanding it back, then running the tank sealant through the inside.
Any thoughts are much appreciated.