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Talking torque

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by mav, Nov 25, 2010.

  1. when a service manual says something like

    "Tightening Torque - 105Nm (10.5 m kg)"

    I'm assuming they mean to use a torque wrench?

    Are they a simple, straightforward to use tool? I don't own one 9or ever used one) but Supercheap has this


    and this


    alternatively these



    do they all do the same thing?
  2. The second two are impact wrenches, very different.

    I would spend a minimum of $100 on a torque wrench, brands like Sidchrome, or Kincrome minimum.

    Make sure the operating range is relevant to your bike, ie a torque wrench that does 100-300 foot pounds won't be relevant if your bolts only need to be torqued to 50 foot pounds max.

    The more money you spend, the more accurate the wrench will be, & some of the cheaper ones aren't very accurate at low & high settings, something to be aware of.

    Yes, they are usually very easy to use, just set the wrench to the required setting (in your service manual) & turn until it clicks.

  3. sounds easy...thanks MV

    what's an expected price range for SidChrome? ~$100?
  4. For bolts and nuts found on most bikes that require a more exacting torque setting, a decent quality 1/4 or 3/8" drive torque wrench is all you will ever need.
    1/2" is usually too big to have the finer settings required of the smaller 8-10mm bolts found on bikes, and its not really going to make a big difference if a 30mm axle bolt is done up to 75,80,or 85 ft.lb ( 80 is the 10r's spec )

    I would suggest places like 'all tools' or similar engineering tool shops in preference to supercrap...that's before any prejeduce caused by their bs ads slagging motorcycling.
  5. Prices get rather scary though for higher end torsion type ones, but they are accurate.

    The ones that click are OK for the average joe working on their vehicles occasionally but they will become less accurate over time.

    I think I paid $79 for a Kincrome.
  6. I'd also recommend somewhere else. Repco are usually pretty good to deal with and generally have a good selection of quality gear.

    I do without a torque wrench, just doesn't seem neccessary once you've got a bit of experience. Not saying don't get one, just that I don't use one. And yes, I've rebuilt engines and they didn't come apart afterwards :D

    - boingk
  7. Although I'd avoid SuperCrap products, anything of moderate quality (Kinchrome etc.) will do the needful. In many cases, like casing bolts, cylinder head nuts etc, the absolute number is less important than uniformity. Whilst many torque wrenches may be out a bit in their calibration, the repeatability of anything with a reasonable brand name should be pretty good, and that's what you really need.

    I'd agree with the other posters that 1/4" or 3/8" is the way to go. The only place you're likely to need the capacity of a 1/2" is axle nuts and, for those, standing on the end of a breaker bar will generally do :D.
  8. Sidchrome will be more (probably 2 x), my 3/8 Kinchome was $139, but I picked it up on sale for $89 odd...
  9. i was going to ask this same question :D I was thinking about a Supercheap auto torque wrench, but like others have said I'm going to search elsewhere.
  10. yea i think i payed about the same. Got mine from bunnings
  11. thanks for the tips on bunnings and repco

    i only referenced Supercheap because they are near my house and i cant remember seeing any other tools shop nearby.

    luckily, through the magic of the internet, i have a repco and a couple of bunnings' nearby.

    ...and FYI, my service manual said to use a torque wrench to tighten my sump nut after changing the oil,

    however i didn't see any point in that bit of info,

    as tight = tight (and i've been mechanically maintaining my cars for years without one)
    so just checking really if its necessary to have one. so i guess it can be beneficial but not ultimately essential?
  12. Basically, yes. Until not so very long ago (25-30 years maybe) torque wrenches tended to be very expensive pieces of kit, generally used only by professionals. Amateurs still managed to work on vehicles without stuffing them up any more frequently than is the case today.

    However, they are useful on bikes because an awful lot of the fasteners on a modern bike thread into fairly soft aluminium which is dead easy to damage if you apply even slightly too much welly. Your sump plug is a case in point. Yes, it's entirely possible to tighten it adequately without doing damage but, as many here and elsewhere will attest, it's also entirely possible to tighten it a little too far and then you don't get much warning before it's time for a helicoil thread repair, which is a pain in the arse and potentially expensive, depending on how much dismantling is needed in order to do it.

    So lack of a torque wrench need not stop you from working om your bike (though I'd regard it as fairly essential for cylinder head bolts and bottom end bearings) but it can be very handy indeed. Stick to the factory torque settings and you're unlikely to strip a thread or shear a bolt. No guarantees though. I've had a couple of threads come out at well below the book setting in the past, though they may have suffered previous damage.
  13. Everytime I see a gushing trail of oil along the road, I think to myself, torque your sump plug properly.
  14. I got mine for the rear axle nut. Now I will need it to change the chain. Handy bit of kit for me.

    Never used it on a sump plug though.
  15. No joke - the previous owner stripped the sump on my bike. It threads in but doesn't grip too well... problem is currently solved with an application of superglue to the head after its seated and seems to work alright.

    Not going to helicoil, will probably get a mate to tap it out to the next largest thread size.

    Shit - boingk