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Switching From Race Pattern Gear Change To "street" Gear Change

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by zx9er, Oct 30, 2012.

  1. G'day,

    I recently bought an r1 track bike from an ex racer. He had the bike set up in the formation of:

    • 1
    • neutral
    • 2
    • 3
    • 4
    • 5
    • 6
    I am used to the normal road riding set up of:

    • 6
    • 5
    • 4
    • 3
    • 2
    • neutral
    • 1
    I have heard to change it I needed to change the bracket where the push rod attaches to the gear box and basically turn it up side down, or 180 degrees. I tried this and now there is no room for the bracket to "pivot" without touching the swingarm.
    Any advice? Oh yeah I'm using an aftermarket adjustable footpegs setup, if that helps...

  2. Man it's been way too long since I had my bike, but does that mean you're pushing down to change up? That actually sounds pretty convenient...
  3. yeah Gurbachen - race pattern is opposite to road: from neutral you go up into first then down to second, third fourth etc.

    It arguably makes it easier to change gears when the bike is leant over because you push down to go up a gear and it's easier to push down than get your foot under the lever to pull it up, meaning you don't lose time by having to short shift. It's especially useful when coming out of a slow tight corner on the gas while leant over when you physically can't get your foot off the peg and under the gearshift because of your lean angle.

    I run road pattern on mine and I need to short shift out of turn 5 at Mallala because I can't change through the sweepy turn 6 as I'm leant over too much. My mate with the same model bike uses race pattern and he can change up while leant over in turn 6.

    as for how to change it from one to the other, without pics it's kinda hard to see what you mean in terms of what is fouling on the swingarm.

    have you tried disconnecting the pushrod from the gearbox connector first and then removing the connector and flipping through 180 degrees?

    It sounds like you've got the right idea with it though. It should only take about 5 mins to do, a little longer if you need to make adjustments to the pedal after you're done. make sure you tighten it up properly when you're done too (bitter voice of experience talking!!)
    • Like Like x 1
  4. I assume by flipping the connection piece at the spline (not sure what it's called) 180 degrees, the rod now sits too high and hits the frame? If so, you have to either get a new connecting rod or bend the old one (which might make it shorter), or put stock rear sets back on. Sounds like you have aftermarket rear sets that sit higher causing the rod to only fit in one way.
  5. Why don't you just leave it as race pattern and try and get used to it? May take a while, but you'll get there and then feel like a real racer. Meanwhile, you're bound to fuck up once or twice and have an interesting incident you can relate to us here, and we can have a laugh. Win-win!
  6. +1 leave it race pattern and get used to it.....as a bonus.....thieves with single digit IQ's won't be able to get it in gear when they try to steal it.

    Question...what model (year) R1 ????........picture is worth a 1000 words.
  7. Yep that's right the rod is hitting the frame, not the swingarm, I was a bit tired and fed up when I wrote the first post.

    Yeah I have aftermarket rear sets.
  8. And even the motion of the twisting causes the connection of the bracket that holds the rod to come into contact with the frame. Not good.

    Mike it's a 2002 r1.

    The picture below shows how the bracket was facing down. When I turned it 180 degrees to the top the bracket was almost touching the frame. When I reconnected the rod (or pushrod?) there was not enough room for the bracket to pivot and thus change gears. Also the rod was no longer long enough without pushing the rear sets forward.

  9. The last picture didn't work but this one should... pushrod and bracket smaller.
  10. Is there a hole thru the frame??
    From your picture I'm guessing that they are Kaneg rearsets.
    Have a chat to Pete, he should be able to offer a solution. Maybe you have to buy a different gear lever so that you can set it up as in the picture below.
    The picture below is of the standard setup, hope that helps..
  11. Your a legend Mike! I'm going to have a look tomorrow in the daylight but yeah I'm pretty sure there is a hole
  12. Oh I thought you passed it through the hole and it was fouling on the edge of the hole and not run it on the outside! However in saying that, it looks as though the connecting rod is running towards the bottom of the shifter, rather than the top as per Mike's picture. If that's the case, you might need to get another shifter lever from the company that makes it...to suit your need. Got a picture of the lever as well?
  13. A lot of rearsets can be purchased in GP or road shift config, usually it's just a different shift lever and rod. Some bikes can just be flipped 180.

    I run GP pattern and I love it, I hope I never have to go back. I got no problem jumping on a road shift bike, it's only an issue when your going flat out and your instincts kick in.
  14. It turns out the rear sets had a hole above the footpeg as well as below. So my friend just detached the push rod from below and reattached it to above the footpeg. So now when I shift up it pulls the lever instead of pushing it. Standard gearbox settings are restored! Thanks all for their input. If anyone is interested in a picture of the rear sets I can post them up.

    The bracket had to be switched 180 degrees back to its original position.

    Oh yeah, the push rod was adjustable in length just by turning it with a spanner.

  15. Just out of curiosity why did you want to change it back anyway? I feel like it's at best an advantage and at worst something you take a day getting used to. Although I suppose there must be a reason road bikes are the way they are
  16. It takes a few laps to get used to it, however if it's an emergency or you are pushing it hard around the track you may subconsciously revert back to road pattern. It also requires you to think twice at times...if you are not a regular track/race rider, which puts you off through a corner, especially when you accidentally put it into the wrong gear.

    I ride road pattern on road and race on the track, however I do find it difficult in the first few laps to get used to the shifting because I have to force myself to do it, rather than naturally. So either change race to road pattern, or road bike to race pattern to keep things more natural.

    Not sure what the OP's reason is though...I'd imagine it'd be something similar. Being comfortable on a bike will give better lap times than just changing it to race pattern IMO.
  17. That's why I got 4 bikes in my shed and they're all GP shift (even the mrs reckons its better). Only thing that worries me is I want to get into dirt soon and most dirt bikes (or maybe all) have the shift lever straight off the gearbox (no linkage) so that would be a problem. I can ride road shift but I'd rather it be GP so it feels like mine.
  18. You do get use to it quick, using both set ups.
    Use to be even worse when different marques had the levers on either side.
    I usually have a little chuckle when I jump strait off the postie onto my other bike.. do a little heel change for up then get very confused when my heel cant find the up lever
  19. I just remember it being irritating to toe up the shifter quickly until I put the heel-toe on there
  20. Yeah having just bought a new track bike and not being able to ride it on the road to get used to it, I really didn't want to learn a new gear box on a track day. I feel much more comfortable with the normal set up and after almost 14 years of riding it's just a big and unnecessary change.