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Suzuki GSX250 Across Starter Switch not firing reliably

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by maffau, Mar 7, 2009.

  1. Hi all - got me an Across about 5 weeks ago, so far so good, well once I worked out how to start without flooding it! but anyway, the last week or so, I've not been getting a response from the starter switch every time I've pressed it. The number of times I need to press it is slowly but surely creeping out to the point I'm not confidant taking it anywhere tonight.

    Bike gets ridden to work every day, which is a 50km round trip, so battery should be getting good charge, tho reading some of the other posts around here, maybe I should check the charge it is holding in case the battery is dying?

    I've also recently (just today) noticed the bolt holding the clutch leaver in is slightly loose - could this be causing the clutch switch to play up?

    Any ideas that I can check myself would be much appreciated - I'm not against sending to to an auto-electrician, but I would prefer to be able to get an idea of what is going on before I send it in.

    Thanks guys
  2. Welcome to NR. Enjoy
  3. I have an across, and it also doesnt start every time, unless I hold the clutch in exactly the right position. Try moving the clutch around, maybe you have the same deal. With mine, I have to pull it in all the way, then upwards.

    And check out your carby slide holders, if you feel so inclined. If they're worn out, they'll make the bike run like a piece of s#!t.
  4. try playing with the throttle a bit when you press the button
  5. clutch switch may be dodgy.

    you could try shorting it to see if it then cranks reliably.
  6. Yeah, I was having probs last night when heading out, so I lifted the clutch and it started just fine. Same again on the way back. Hardly conclusive, but it is a good start. Thanks for the steer guys.

    One more question - I only get around 120kms from 7.5l fuel (chops to around 160km/10l), this really sounds a little on the low side to me. I DO kick it at most lights etc, but I was really expecting something a little better? Is this too low, or are small bikes that rev hard always going to chew thew lots of fuel?

  7. Thats quite poor fuel consumption. You get about 6.25L/100km, same as a vw polo or something. I get about 4.2l/100km on the highway and high 4's in the suburbs. Low 5's if I'm *really* caning it. The across does weigh about 20kg more (dry), but thats not enough to make it use that much fuel.

    Something is probably out of tune. Choke stuck? Air filter clogged?
  8. Yeah, I thought so - my first bike tho, so I wasn't confidant.

    Had it serviced about 3 weeks ago, but didn't "tune/adjust the chain" or something (I should pay more attention, I know), but mechanic said I need new sprocket and chain, and would tune when they get put on. Could this be what you are referring to?
  9. That fuel consumption is right, I used to give it a bit as well. Mini fuel tank as well because of the tank compartment.
  10. you should get a little better

    i'd normally put in about 7 when i hit 140.
    my across would be up near 200 on 10 litres so pretty much 5L per hundred in the suburbs mostly peak hour commutes.
    On ride days i'd get well over 200 on 10L. Closer to 4L per hundred.

    You'd need to check your jet needles and slide holders, balancing, etc.
    Get yourself to the next netrider workshop day.
  11. Starter Switch Issue Fixed

    Just thought I'd update this one for anyone who encounters it in the future - this was caused by the bolt holding the clutch lever in being loose. Tightened up, and fires every time.

    I've not got another issue, but heading off to have the chain/sprocket/rear breaks done this week so will have mechanic check it out.

    Just for curiosity tho, what is happening is that when I rolled off throttle, or even just cruise at say 10-25km/h, I'm getting a very strange noise. Like there is wire on the disks or something. I originally thought it was my keys, but is now very obviously not. Have eyeballed as much as I can, but nothing seems loose - the other way I could try and explain it is that it almost sounds like ...... tape in the a fan or something (obviously I've check the fan with my hands). Seems to only really be when the weight of the bike goes forward tho - accelerate, and it isn't there.
  12. Perhaps as the top run of the chain goes loose on overrun, it is touching something. Sometimes things get caught on the chain, like twigs and then get stuck beteen the chain guard and swinging arm for instance. You did write that you had a worn chain and sprocket. An out of round sprocket can make an aweful lot of noise on overun as it makes the chain have a cyclic variation in tension that flops it up and down. The chain may be slapping the guide.
  13. Re: Starter Switch Issue Fixed

    This might sound strange, but check your speedo cable, mine makes funny clicking noises on either deceleration or when I'm walking it backwards. Took me a while to work out where the sound was coming from. I dont know if this means something bad is going to happen tho...
  14. maffau thanks for the update about the clutch cable, I sometimes have similar problems with my across, I normal just roll it forward a bit and it goes. As for your fuel consumption, I would say it was on the low side. Mine improved drastically when I replaced the throttle slide holders, you should check out this website for more details http://au.geocities.com/ozcross250/holder.html it is a very simple fix.
  15. Re: Starter Switch Issue Fixed

    why dont you start it in neutral ? if i start my bike cold with gear in and clutch it surges forward, not a good idea

    as for the fuel economy, i think you are running rich, just pull out the slider pins and adjust the circlip one notch up bringing the pins down which lets less fuel more air, and also the 4 flat head screws on top of the carb needs to be tightened as they get lose from vibrations and cause the thing to run rich, that also tends to flood the carbs making it hard to start.
  16. in or out of neutral doesn't matter.
    later acrosses require the clutch pulled in either way.
    my 95 started in neutral without the clutch in so it either didn't have the switch or was already bridged.
    my 98 would only start with the clutch in, whether it was in neutral or not.
  17. is that on all new bikes or just learner bikes for saftey, ive only owned old bikes pre 1994 :grin:

    did you have trouble with starting your bike? flooding or running rich ?
  18. Maffau, if that clutch switch is playing up you could just piss it off before it leaves you stuck somewhere. Just cut the wires at the switch, solder them together and never worry about it again.
    If you can remember to put your di*k back in your pants after taking a piss, you should be able to remember not to start the bike in gear with the clutch out. :grin:
  19. Yep - no idea what it actually was, but if I left it for a few hours, it would start just fine. My strong (uneducated) suspicion is that it was flooding.


    Might just try that. Pissing it off that is ;-)

    Should get it back tomorrow, mechanic had issues getting parts in a hurry, he had a look at the chain tho, and apparently it was cactus and very likely to be causing that noise. Also getting a slightly different sprocket to give me more speed off the line I believe.

    As for the carby slide holders, given I'm useless with mechanical things (I do computers, not bikes :grin: ), should i get the mechanic to do this, or is it really something a noob can do?
  20. 1 the across love to flood if you dont get it going 1st time it floods and you either have to dry the plugs or wait an hour or so (trick, if its running rich, dont use choke, pull the throttle about 20% hold it in that possition and hit the start.)

    2 the smaller sproket would slow the bike down as it only gets around 40kph in 1st anyway , so you would have to shift at 20 with 1 size smaller
    by the way its gets to 40 pretty quick anyway, and once you hold it in the above 10k range it will go ok for a 250.

    3 the slide holders are easy to replace, buy some at the suzuki dealer for round $5 each then undo your 2 nuts on the forks and the two upper allen key screws on each side, take the seat off using the key, lift the thing up, unscrew the 4 phillips heads screws on each carb cover, pull that rubbery and plastic thing out and two tube like things with a pin come out, you will now see the plastic things you bought, pull them off the pin and re clip them (new ones ) back on, simple :grin: