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Suzuki GSX 250 1982

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by DNL, Mar 25, 2008.

  1. Ok - not too sure why.... but a mate an I bought a non working '82 Suzuki GSX250 for $100. Basically it stopped and the previous owner did not take the trouble to repair. PS Wife only found out the bike was being delivered tonight - tonight :shock:

    The bike has been vandalised - ie: body cracks, levers and mirrors broken, tail light trashed, pegs on one side bent, change lever has been bent - so overall, pretty cosmetic things on first look. Bike has been garaged and out of weather for a couple of years and the frame looks nice and straight. The bending looks to be from abuse as opposed to being dropped - ie: no other tell tale signs of the bike sliding down the bitumen or being impacted.



    Troublesome is the fact that it just stopped running and there is no story attached. The motor is not seized as when rolling it off the trailer, you could hear the pots ticking over and the pop of compression. I can only assume the bike is in gear but there is a clutch issue as it will roll - though not as smoothly if in nuetral - and I'm pretty sure you could hear the cyclinders going up and down followed by compression noise.

    Note - neither my mate or I are mechanics and this was bought as a learning bike - $50 each - we can't go wrong in our book! But now it is in the garage, we want to get it running. It appears to be leaking some oil from underneath but that has not been identified as yet - it could be that it has all leaked out by now (in garage for 4 years) but there are no serious leaks, especially around fork seals and other areas of the motor.

    Any initial thoughts about being able to roll the bike, hear the pots and compression noise?

    cheers
     
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  2. Drop the old oil out and put fresh oil in it before you start playing with it.

    Drain any old fuel out and put fresh fuel in before you try and start it.

    Drain the carbies as part of that process.

    If it's a foam air filter clean it and re-oil it, if it's a paper one check it and replace if it's dirty (I'd replace a paper one anyway).

    You can jump start it using jumper leads and a car, the battery will almost certainly be stuffed.

    Do you have the key?

    If it cranks over and still doesn't start check to make sure you've got spark.

    Basically you need Air, Fuel and Spark to get a basically functional motor to start.

    That's probably enough to get you started :)
     
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  3. Good learning experience, Does it have the spark plugs in or out?
     
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  4. Yep - a good learning experience to be had. Spark plugs are in and after a fairly good external inspection all gaskets and seals appear in attack. thanks etelmo.

    Thanks ZRX for the advice - this is going to be the start point once we clean the bike up a bit.

    I'd say the oil has leaked from the sump - but not sure if there is a leaky plug, gasket or a hole at this stage. Anyway, once cleaned we can start to tinker. The key has not been provided at this time, but the previous owner is apparently looking. I'll speak with the local suzi dealer to see what can be done about a new key, we may have to replace the inner workings for ignition, seat etc.

    On first glance on Ebay, there seems to be plenty of parts - cheap as well. So the experience begins!!! I've got plenty of steel lying around so to make a raised work bench to ensure the bike is at a good height to work on.

    If I can get this running again at a good price - it will serve as a good learner machine for the wife - and justifies the expenditure :LOL:
     
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  5. Brilliant - thanks mate. Did not know that was there but do now!
     
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  6. Take off the helmet lock, If it has a code on it, take it to a decent locksmith and get them to cut a key off file. If it doesn't have a code, take it to an even better locksmith and get them to make a key off it.
    I think its the same sort of styling as the 125 of the era which I own, and so the rear 'boot' will have the same code stamped into it, will have to take it apart to get at it however.

    Is the oil fresh? as in, has it leaked during the move, or is it older dried oil. If its new since the moved, it could have been on its side and leaked from a breather/seal ect.
     
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  7. Thanks again etelmo....hopefully we will get a key but I'm not holding my breath. I take that helmet lock off and see how good the locksmiths are. Ill take a couple of photos and upload. But it looks something like this:
    aV2aSDD9.

    Only it is yellow and no original decals due to a respray which still looks in pretty good nick.
    cheers
     
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  8. I used stewarts, but I think they merged with another company? Not sure, was a few years ago. With the lock + code in hand, it took all of 3 minutes for 2 keys to be cut. The styling is of the same type as my 125, and the locks are probably identical across models.

    When I got the GS, it wasn't running due to no key. An oil change and some new fuel later, and it was running albeit badly, took basically a carb rebuild and retune to get it to run smoothly.
    Replaced a few other things on it also;
    - Exhaust after a year or so of abuse, as the old one rusted out (It had been sitting 20 years, so I don't really blame it, I got the bike with just over 6000km). With a bit more back pressure from the new one, it idled very smoothly.
    - Chain, The original freed up, however I replaced it and noticed that it was a lot smoother...
    - Cush drive, the rubber hub in the rear wheel. The old one had perished with age (Or oil?) and wasn't really doing its job, loads of free play between the sprocket and wheel. I have heard good things about shimming them, make sure the bolts on sprocket are tight, can work themselves loose if theres movement with the cush drive.

    With the carby, the main thing to go was the needle valve. What this meant was if I left the fuel tap on... a large puddle would form through the overflow. Replacing the O-rings and blowing all the rust flakes out fixed most problems. Make sure you clean the bowl 'filter' on the fuel tap, it catches the larger bits of rust reasonably well.

    Hm, probably other stuff as well, however those are the main things I remember. A lot of the hoses were perished, probably want to replace the brake lines if you do get it going, they are not the best to begin with and you really don't want them to be mushy... :D
     
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