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Suzuki drz 250 won't start

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by Thomas24, Oct 14, 2016.

  1. Hey mates,
    I got a Drz250, 06. I was sadly running out of fuel and got a dead battery. After that I tried to kick start it but doesn't work. Bought a new battery and spark plug, still don't want to turn on. The only why to get it running is to kick start it while pushing it than it runs in idle. But even if it's warmed up it won't start... Just with pushing and then kick start. Has anyone an idea what I could be?

    Cheers Thomas

  2. Would think you have either burnt out your starter motor or more likely the starter relay (little switch box under seat that switches the starter on when you hit the button - trace the starter motor heavy wires back until you find the relay which will probably smell burnt or look burnt)
  3. um
    no i dont
    have you put fuel in it ?
  4. Fuel - is the any there? Is it getting to the carby/injectors?
    Spark - is it producing a fat blue spark if you take out the plug put the lead vack on it hold it to the block and hit the starter button?
    Carby - is it full of crap? Blocked jets? Have you tried draining the float bowl to get rid of any water?
  5. Fuel is coming through otherwise It wouldn't run constantly in idle. I'll check all the thinks you mentioned when I get the time and come back to you guys
  6. So does the starter turn when you hit the button? Do your dash lights shine when you turn on the ignition? Does it run normally once you get it started? Not just idle, I mean properly.
  7. Back to basics.
    -Is the battery charged (headlights, instruments, indicators bright)?
    -Do you have new fuel in it and is it set to ON?
    -When you hit the starter button do you hear a loud click?

    -If the battery is toasted the CDI may be tripping out and not allowing the bike to rev, seen it happen a few times.
    -The main jet may be blocked and only running off the pilot jet, or the fuel filter (if fitted) may be hydrolocked or filled with crud
    -If the fuel has turned to spicy water the engine may not want to rev.
  8. #8 Thomas24, Oct 26, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2016
    So guy's I got a little bit time and check a few things.

    Drained the tank and washed it out
    Cleand the fuel filters.
    And yes you can hear the click from the starter relay but I checked the starter motor and it doesn't work... I'll go to the store and let it check and maybe get a new one....
    Check the spark plug with a multi meter and it's alright, there was a carbon on it and it was never wet when I checked it.
    The battery is fully charged and everything except the starter motor is working.
    I also Cleaned the carburettor (sadly I forget the adjustment of the mixture pin... Try to figure that out the next day's)

    Now I can start it sometimes but only if I use evertime the choke and full throttle while kick starting and if I don't tip the throttle it runs out quickly even when I push the idle pin on Max :(... And now I'm really running out of ideas what I could have missed...
  9. Mixture pin. Usually the "starting point" adjustment is all the way in (closed), then 2 1/2 turns out. Be gentle. The friction in the threads can make it hard to tell when it is all the way closed. Do not over tighten. This will vary the mixture at idle only. The mixture at medium and high speeds is controlled by the jets in the carby which generally have no external adjustment.

    This is a screw on the actual carburettor, and not to be confused with a second idle adjustment on the throttle cable assembly - this one sets the actual closed throttle position. They can be seen to be as a sort of coarse and fine adjustments. Set the "air screw" on the carby so the engine will idle (set and forget) and use the one on the linkage as the "real adjustment" to adjust the idle speed to suit.

    I've owned several bikes on which I've never touched the mixture screw, over a period of ownership which has been as long as 9 or 11 years, but regularly adjusted the idle speed on the linkage to suit - usually seasonally, depending on whether I value the bike being able to idle with a cold engine while putting on helmet and gloves at the expense of it idling a little fast when warmed up. It's often hard to find a happy medium. Usually, I've been content to leave it a little low so that it doesn't idle fast when warm, and don the helmet and gloves before starting the engine.