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Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by GreyImport, Aug 13, 2012.
seeing as I know nothing, the blot you point to , by moving 'back' I'd guess those rods/links would reduce in lenght therefore MY guess the other end of the rods/links would reduce in reach, hence maybe 'lower' something?
Seeing as no other info is provided, and as I said, I know nothing, thats my assumption.
I am pretty sure it does nothing,what is shown is the links for a typical rising rate system.There might be a ride hight adjuster but I haven't seen one like that.Damping adjusters are usually on the shock body,sometimes they are hidden behind the links and you need to weight the seat to get at them.Probably a good idea to get a manual for the bike and get reading.Lots of great info in them.
All of the damping adjusters I have seen look like a slotted screw with maybe 20 clicks available,not much strength needed to do the clicking.To me that looks like a spring preload adjuster.I use them to set the sag on the shock,about 1/3 of available travel should be set with you sitting on the bike.If all else fails read the question.My best guess is moving the link between holes changes the rising rate ratio.There is a multilayer effect between wheel travel and shock travel.Thats a guess,might be worth a call to a pro.Terry at Shock Treatment is a helpful bloke who knows his suspension stuff.
The shock will definitely need a service, the fluid changed at the very least.
As with the suspension settings, whatever entry in your manual snippet is for (I am assuming compression dampening adjustment) back the adjuster out (anti clockwise) until you cannot go any further, then go two clicks harder (clockwise). This will return you to the standard setting so that you can work from there.
Thats a old crappy shockif u want adjustability in all types buy a new one and go and see someone who knows what hes doing,as u dont and playing with suspension that u know nothing about can be dangerous for newbies.
Not claiming to be an expert or anything....I wouldn't use the lower hole as there doesn't appear to be as much 'meat' around the hole....the question would be "will the mount at that point be able to handle the loads imposed???"
As for your question..the lower hole will alter the ratio between swingarm movement and shock travel because the lever acting on the shock ( the part of the bellcrank to the right of the links ) will be more vertical.
Will this change will cause the bellcrank to 'go to' or 'past' vertical in the full stroke of travel thereby causing a problem at or near full swingarm deflection ?
I'm also guessing it may raise the ride height a little.
My guess would be that the extra holes would be for a centrestand which Yamaha decided at some point not to fit, or only fitted to a different model of bike which used the same frame and/or suspension mount.
lol, why would you go and buy a new shock for a cheap grey import 250, unless you want to run track days or road race on it.
best left to the professionals on this one.
I never claimed to be an expert read my post, but i can tell u i have riden bikes for 35 years all types,on road and track.good luck with your smart ass attitude.
Yes, it's going to change your suspension linkage rate & change the ride height.
It's also probably going to crack the first time you hit a large bump too, given it's not meant to used as part of the suspension.
I'm not surprised you didn't get a reply, given your propensity to mock good advice given to you.
If you're going to the trouble ($) of getting it rebuilt why not replace it with a newer shock with more adjustability?
How much do you think that will cost?
Then why would you rebuild the old one? Same result.
Pot = kettle. You also assume a lot.
You asked what it would do, I told you. How is that bad advice? I also told you it would break if you used it as such, again, how is that bad advice?
What do you think it's there for grandpa, assuming it's not part of the suspension?