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Suspension settings / headshake

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by dgmeister, May 26, 2012.

  1. (where do you put a suspension thread?)

    On a road/track supersport bike with no steering damper,
    how would you adjust the suspension to focus on reducing headshake/tankslappers?

    I have adjusted suspension successfully on dirt bikes but
    haven't done it on road bikes

  2. I'll have a crack, IMO tank slappers are caused by something in the rear and can be exaggerated by something incl geometry in the front. Once the rr squats down, the front gets light (esp on more aggressive sportbike geometry) or loses contact altogether and if the rebound is uncontrolled it can turn into a seesaw motion on the rr rebound stroke with the front gaining and losing weight again. So if you can reduce the bikes tendency to squat when getting on it from weightshift/on the gas, via addl preload/springrate/comp etc it will help, and that the rr rebound is in check too without packing down. Recheck all your sags first to make sure theyre ballpark, and that your tyres arent mis-shapen which makes it a handful and can induce them. I could suggest hitting bumps square on/upright or being smoother on the throttle, but honestly, if you are asking the question then just get a damper if it doesn't already have one. Some US racing orgs have them as mandatory fitment for a reason. It only seems expensive until it saves you the first time. What bike btw, and road or track? Above is obv for track.
  3. hopefully getting a '03 r6 tomorrow!

    so i will take some time to set up the suspension real nice!
    i have heard the r6's are a bit shaky, and have also heard if the suspension is set up right
    (on most bikes) you shouldn't get any head shake.

    from dirt bikes i know suspension makes all the difference, even one click makes it a different bike to ride!
  4. Adjusting stock suspension doesn't give a heap of difference for most bikes. If you want to minimise headshake by adjusting suspension you'll need to spend some coin IMO.

    Bumps in the road can give you a wobble if they push the front wheel out of line, but the bike usually sorts itself out. There's plenty of steering dampers available though if that'll give you piece of mind.
  5. First thing you do is make sure it's not running a 60 profile front tyre.
    Then make sure it's a good seventy profile.
    Now it depends on what is causing the headshake. Braking or throttle.
    Either way you will get both on the 03 R6.
    To dial out the throtlte headshake you would need to raise the front triples. Losing corner speed.
    Keep an eye on fleebay for a steering damper.
    I rebuilt two a year on my 636.
    What makes a 600 need a steering damper is what makes them so good
  6. Is this the bike that was bought with a busted frame....?

    Have you already experienced the headshake issue or was this a premptive question?

    If you already have the shakes, I'd be getting the whole bike checked over, bent frame could mean bent forks/headstem etc.....

    If it's a premptive strike then E V E R Y B O D Y who buys A N Y bike (even if brand spanking new) for A N Y kind of use should A L W A Y S take it straight into a suspension specialist to have it dialed into your weight/riding location (track V road) and style/experience. Ok so cruisers/scooters might not benefit too much and the adjustment will only really work well if the oil is fresh/good qual and spring rates are correct. Get one of these wrong and I'd agree with OzMLeathers to the point it's not worth looking at until you get those things sorted but once you do getting the suspension sorted WILL transform your bike (especially a 2ndhandy that hasn't had any TLC in that area.....if it has a few kms on it throw in some fresh headstem bearings too or at least check for wear).

    If it was a track bike previuos to you owning it, you might find it's been setup on the stiff side so will likely cause you issues on the road and R6s can be flighty already....however it's quite likely that the suspension has never been touched, probably has the 0.2w fish oil quality fork oil that should be junked from new....

    Even if it DID have a workover, fork oil is like any oil and should be replaced periodically...(like every 10,000-20,000kms again depending on use).

    Since you've fiddled with dirt bikes the basic principles are not that indifferent.

    Check the spring ratio is ideal for your weight/riding style (fast V slow). On a lot of bikes, straight from the showroom floor, have undersprung front springs (to give the impression of a 'plush' ride over bumpyness) and a stiff rear to cater for those pesky pillions....so straight up the front/rear are mismatched...!

    Start with checking setting static sag, road is around 30-35mm, track is closer to 25mm and then set the rest from there but seriously I'd be taking it to someone like SuspensionSmith or ZenoDampner...

    Since you're asking though, do us a favour, post up a 'pre' suspension ride report and a post suspension report.

    p.s: Personally, I'd get the suspension sorted before adding a steering dampner. It will only mask a poor suspension setup, if you find it's still flightly at that point, then add the steering dampner...(don't they come with them stock??)

    Good luck mate :)