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Suspension help?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' at netrider.net.au started by croc76, May 1, 2014.

  1. Hi all,

    I am the proud owner of a 05 cbr600rr that's currently undergoing fairing fitting. Would any of you be able to help with suspension adjustments for my weight? Or point me in the right direction?

    Thanks all

    Attached Files:

  2. What is your weight to start with?

    I race a 07 600RR so I know a bit about them
  3. Start by looking at some of Dave Moss' videos

    Basically what you want to do is aim to set up the rider/race sag based on your weigh. You do this by taken measurement with the bike unloaded and with you on it, then adjust the preload accordingly.

    The stock suspension is always sprung to a set weight. It's probably around 70kg. There is very little range in the preload adjustment, it's meant for adjusting to suit track conditions not so much to compensate for weight.

    For road riding I'd be aiming for a sag value of 35mm, if you find you can reach 35mm with your adjustment all the way in or out then you probably would still benefit from a spring change. I'm 100kgs so I always assume that I need to increase the spring rate.
    • Like Like x 1
  4. where are you? I think Izzy at suspensions r us will set up suspension for $50 or so (that was a while ago so it might be more now).
  5. If you have no one to help you with taking measurements you can use cable ties on the shocks push them right up the shock then sit on the bike they will travel down and rest where the shock finished traveling.

    I always use 25-30% of total travel for my sag settings 25% for a harder ride 30% for a softer ride.
  6. Get a mate, a 6 pack, a marker and a good retractable tape measure.
    Rest your bike on a wall and drink a beer. Then hold the bike strait up even. Bars end exact same hight and mark and measure a hard point on the tail to the ground and the same on the fork leg somewhere you can easily get to that's apart of the fork tube.

    Then sit on the bike, using an elbow hold the bike strait up... bar ends. And measure exact same spots again... magic marker.

    For the road and most general use you should use a third of your suspension travel with your fat arse on the bike.

    Play with preload till it is.

    Set dampening at factory spec's and go play to find your sweet spot

    Check ... Roger ... Houston ... over and out
  7. Yeh I've had bad luck with trying to set the front end to a set number as all the authorities on the net say. I dial the rear in to a number but go by the travel on the front end.
  8. wow thanks for your help guys. I will probably grab a mate and see what we can do. Cheers!
  9. I hope the rear preload is easier to access than on my 07 600rr. Its a real biatch
  10. MAKE NOTES!!!!

    Use the back page of your owners manual and leave it under the seat, Note the following at a minimum:
    1. you total travel front back
    2. your sag measurements
    3. the amount of adjustment you have eg. number of clicks, mm sticking out or whatever your bikes shocks use
    4. factory default
    5. your settings: either how far from full hard or full soft or factor default.
    6. your street settings
    7. your tack settings
    8. your 2up settings
    9. your luggage settings
    whatever else is useful

    this way you won't have to do the whole measuring exercise ever time.

    My bike has remote rear shock preload adjustment so i change it all the time for when my wife is with me, when i have luggage on and when its just me alone.
  11. Can I ask you how exactly are you measuring it?
    I don't think you can compress or extend forks 100%. Same with the shock. Unless you remove all the preload which is not really possible as there's always done preload on the springs.

    Thus how can you get any sort of a useful number?
  12. Static sag isn't the same as rider on sag. We do the static when we put the bikes together.
    Unless I have done a complete suspension rebuild or I'm looking to see if it needs one. I really don't bother with static sag.
    The total travel is the travel you have left after static.... "without rider on".
    It's also the suspension travel length your manual will quote.
    Your manual will state the amount of clicks your clicker has. Softly screw them all the way in (righty tighty) and set the clickers from there back to what the manual states. Then go from there. In stiff/ slow... out soft /fast.
    Adding rear preload will help putting the front wheel where you want it on the road. But will take away some rear grip.
    So we drop the triples a bit........... it's all a big "BALANCING" act and what worked great for you at the track last weekend, just might not feel that good this weekend... happens like that.
    • Like Like x 1
  13. Lift the bike off the ground so the suspension drops to its highest point.
    • Like Like x 1
  14. I really don't see why some are so afraid to experiment. As bretto61 says it won't be the same all the time as track surface changes weather changes tyre wear changes. It is feared as a 'black' art, I've been fortunate that hoey suspension here SA helped me learn a heap when I gave him a hand for the day to change my forks and shock in my 1098 to ohlins fgrt803 and ttx rear. We re shimmed and spring everything then installed and did a basic setup. Was then refined on track. Practice, write everything down, read a lot and try to understand what each adjuster actually does would be my tip.

    A little tip that I learned from Dan Kyle (look him up) is that you are aiming for the perfect rider sags with as little preload on the spring as possible, if you need to wind the preload on heaps you actually reduce the usable spring length before the coils bind. If you need too much preload I suggest upping spring rate. With my 1098 we managed to have rear sag set at correct measurement with absolute minimal preload. The thing was one of the most plush compliant bikes I've ever ridden after the suspension swap.
  15. BTW for anyone interested in ohlins upgrades, don't buy in Australia you will be ripped off. Visit kyleusa.com he is the biggest importer of ohlins in the US. I paid $2400 for fgrt803 forks which were priced at around $4500 here in Australia. Postage was quick and he marked the price down on the package to avoid import tax
  16. Bretto.....
    Only one beer????
  17. 028.JPG
    Prior to ohlins, and standard pipes
    after, a surprisingly much better ride

    this kind of work is not required, simply spring and valve your current stuff properly and setup sags, youll have a different bike
  18. This^ on most bikes the amount of adjustment isn't enough to change anything to dangerous at worst it is just going to feel odd.
    • Like Like x 1
  19. Do the Ohlin's you bought have the two way dampening system in them? Brilliant suspension that stuff
  20. #20 RRdevil, May 3, 2014
    Last edited: May 3, 2014
    Sorry bretto61 I am mistaken the Ohlin's in my Daytona 675r are the ones with separate damping per leg. The fgrt803 do have the two way dampening system