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Suspension Adjustment

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by lui, Jan 4, 2010.

  1. My bike has adjustable front and rear suspensions, how much would it cost to have them professionally tuned according to my weight? Any recommended workshop in Sydney metro? Cheers!

  2. What kind of bike? What kind of use (commuter, weekend twisties, track)? What kind of adjustments? Help us out here :)

    Personally I'm more of a fan of tuning it yourself to suit your riding style and regular roads. Its really not that hard on most bikes, especially basic stuff like rear preload.

    Cheers - boingk
  3. It's a Speed Triple, mainly city plus commute, no track. I'm not good at mechanical stuff, so rather to get the pros to their job.
  4. I guess you'd want them to adjust the preload so that you have the correct sag for your body weight.
    Let say it takes 15 mins, which is ~$25 for labour.

    Then, you just fiddle with the compression & rebound damping to your liking. :)

    As you'd expect, there's heaps of articles online and in bike mags.
  5. Suspension adjustment is not something for a mechanic. It meant to be set by the rider. Anybody trying to set it for your weight would be guessing.

    If you are not confident doing it yourself, then you need to be with someone who can, but you still need to actively participate.

    The triumphs are very sensative to suspension settings and tyre pressure.

    Where in Sydney are you? What year model speed tripple?
  6. Hi, just wondering how I should adjust the suspension on my CBR. I want it to not be too hard for my passenger to hop on the bike and I want it as lowish so I can easily reach the ground at all times. I understand that lowering it too much will adversely affect the handling but I am happy to compromise and it is reversible. (maybe lowered an inch?)

    I am 6 foot and weigh 77Kgs
    I know how to adjust the front by loosening the triple clamps but would watch a guide to make sure. Is there a way to adjust the rear?
    Can I adjust the rear without changing the rear shock? I noticed an air valve in the gold cylinder, is this for some form of dampening?
    I know I could take it to a shop and have it done but I want to learn myself. This bike is for the street for now.
    Measured the seat height with the bike upright and to the lowest part of the seat it looks to be about 32inches or just under.

    What do you want me to measure to help decide how much lower then stock the bike is? (I've been told it is only the front that has been lowered) Included are pics to help determine how far off the stock setting it is

    Thanks and here are some pics so you can see what I am talking about.

  7. Please do not touch your suspension. Seek professional advice
    • Like Like x 1
  8. My suspension has already been ''touched'' it was lowered by the previous owner at the front supposedly. I am reading the workshop manual from start to finish and have learnt that the gold cylinder is the nitrogen filled damper that needs 150-200psi and I should deff not touch it.

    Is there anyone out there with actual HELPFUL advice?
  9. Forks look to be in about the right spot. If he's lowered the front it was minimal. And 'helpful advice' is to take it to someone who knows what they are doing. If you're not going to take that 'helpful advice' I'm afraid it's all going to end in tears for you.
    Sure feel free to fiddle with it as much as you want. I suggest lowering the triples on the Forks a good inch for a start and see where that gets you. If you don't spear off into a tree come back and tell us a lovely story about it
  10. Devils right @brent88@brent88 , playing around with the ride height of your bike if not done carefully or by someone who knows what they're doing can be dangerous. We get that you want to learn , which is good , but this is not an area that you can afford to get wrong.
    • Like Like x 2
  11. I suggest looking at a few utubes of people Terry Hay from shock treatment setting up a bike.

    To put it very basically..... Look at your manual and see how much shock travel you have front and rear.
    With you sitting on the bike you want a third of that travel taken up by you sitting on the bike with your feet up. Front and rear. When your sitting on the bike take an aggressive seating position... ie you have a race face on and lean forward.
    Cable ties around your fork tubes can show how much it's moved, the rear you will need a mate to help measure.

    You wind on preload until it only sinks through a third. On the forks the pre-load is the big nut on the top of the said fork. On the shock it's the big ring nut.. .or nuts that go around the body of the shock... no not the spring.

    You want to use as little compression dampening as possible....... Your spring is meant to do this, so if your winding on dampening to the end then you need heavier springs. Doing up the damp will cause the shock to overheat earlier making it useless. Try and stay close with factory spec on this one.

    Your rebound is a feel one and one that will rely on how much preload you have to wind on.

    Personally I would take it all back to it's factory spec and go from there. @ 77kg your about right on the limit for most std sports bikes.... I doubt you would need new springs.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  12. Even experienced suspension tuners can sometimes get things horribly wrong when they get a bit lax (I've been the victim of that - experienced, but not his day job - multiple mistakes, resulting in suspension that put me into a ditch). Don't fcuk around with changing the front/rear ride height unless you know what you're doing! Get a workshop/set-up manual, and learn what it says about setting up your bike to be stock ride height/sag. FFS, you're six feet tall. If you can't get your foot firmly to the ground on a CBR-anything at stock ride height/sag, then you're not trying! I suspect that the previous owner didn't know what he was doing, and he has made changes that would make a suspension man shake his head in disbelief!
    • Like Like x 1
  13. That's actually a little incorrect bretto61, you want to achieve your sag setting swith as minimal preload as possible. This is how you know you've got the wrong spring if you need massive amounts of preload the spring is too soft and you effectively reduce the useable stroke of the shock/fork before the spring coils bind. Springs are definitely the start point for any suspension setup, followed by setting the sag. Compression dampening is there to control the rate at which the shock/fork compresses. Rebound is obviously the opposite. We want to control the rate at which it compresses and rebounds otherwise we would be riding around on pogo sticks.
  14. ^^^^Agreed. Compression and rebound dampening should have absolutely zero effect on static or rider sag measurements.
  15. I've had a bit of a play with the suspension settings on my bike so have a little bit of an idea of how everything effects the ride. I'd be happy to help with setting up the suspension. Do you know if the springs and the oil in your forks are original or if they have been played with?
  16. I'm a bit confused, but that's easy. Static sag is just that, not sure where I got the clickers in it.???
    A third of your travel will go in sag... Yup ? to make it that you wind on preload? or off...

    You don't rely on compression dampening at all to take up the static sag, you use prelaod and that's that. Winding on damp will overheat your shock in no time... I thinks I said that.
    All in a perfect world and we're all 32" waists and 75kg - 80kg or ride beyond the limits of most.
    I think :)
  17. The fork seals were recently done so I'd expect the oil to be new Senetor17. Thank you Bretto61 between what I've been told, what I've read and what I've watched on youtube I have a fair idea of what to do to get it back to stock and I will see how it feels from there and make minor adjustments maybe. This is a good guide http://www.gostar-racing.com/club/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm#SET UP BIKE TO YOUR WEIGHT

    RR devil, you said that my front suspension looked like it was in a stock position but according to the manual the preload adjuster should be on the 4th groove and mine is on the first... (see attached picture)

    I am sure I will be fine returning all the settings to stock for now. I am left wondering if some people on here have ever even checked their tyre pressures if their answer for everything is ''don't do that you'll F it, pay someone else to do it''

    Attached Files:

  18. #20 GoldNine, Jul 17, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2014
    Mate , let's get one thing straight , ok ? The comments made by @RRdevil@RRdevil , myself and @danny_tb@danny_tb were done so for YOUR wellbeing and safety . Yes , you're right , returning the bike to the stock manufacturer settings is a good idea but this is not what you asked about in your post , is it ?
    You wanted to know about lowering your bike.
    From your post you sounded as though you really didn't have much idea which is why it was recommended that you take it to a professional - so forgive us if we underestimated your mechanical abilities.
    • Like Like x 1