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Sump Removal GSX-R k1?

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by proxemic, Nov 30, 2009.

  1. Hi All

    Well unfortunately I need a heicoil done on my sump plug hole. I have been advised it will be a much easier process if i remove the sump myself and bring it in to the shop.

    Was just wondering if anyone has done this on a k1-k3 gixxer 600/750, or any similar bike for that matter. Is it a hard process? I realise i would have to refit a new gasket when putting it back on.

    I just managed to do the plugs, air filter, oil filter, oil (until it leaked) and brakes myself, so im partially mechanically capable (except for burring the oil plug hole lol).

    Just seeing if its a matter of a few bolts, I have a workshop manual at home can't remember if it is in there.

    p.s. there's no oil in it atm.

    Thanks guys.
  2. I have a k1600 bike + manual
    Looks like the sump is the same as a car, crapload of bolts all the way round. Cant comment on how hard it is to manouver out tho once the bolts are undone, The manual is pretty light on details about the sump so assume its not too hard or at least easy to work out
  3. Thanks for the info

    Managed to get it off last night. Wasn't too tricky. Just had to:

    remove both side fairings
    Unhook main lower radiator hose
    Lean radiator forward (holding forward with oggy strap on front wheel)
    remove headers/exhaust
    undo 13 bolts under pan
    Pry oil pan/sump off and clean old gasket off

    Bit of a pain in the A though took about an hour and a half. Not bad for a first effort.

    I just rang mick hone again and apprently you can't helicoil the thread because it has a channel to allow the oil to flow through which will get buggered. So getting a new sump, thought i would be up for about $400, but is only $200 new, so bit of light at the end of the tunnel. Also they said they were booked out all week, at least this way i can get my parts after work and put her back together tonight. probaby harder that pulling her apart haha

    Wish me luck.... :-s
  4. I've done it on my CBR954. The tips I will give you are...

    Be VERY carefull when tightening up the bolts as due to the heat cycles in a sump, the bolts become weak. I would go as far as to replace all the bolts. For an extra $20 you could save yourself the problem of removing a broken bolt like I did. Also notice how far off the ground the bike's sump is.. pain in the arse to try to get a drill under there to drill the bolt out of the block. For the record, I used a torque wrench and had it set on 15nm initially when I broke the first bolt (manual says 20nm). I also nearly broke a second one but felt it twisting so stopped. After that I tightened at 10nm and it's been fine for 2 years now. I did use thread locker.

    I also had to replace the copper ring gaskets in my exhaust headers when I put them back on as I had a leak.

    I fairly sure you wouldn't have a gasket either. Mine was a liquid gasket. I used a variety of sikaflex that could take high temperatures.

    Hope this helps.
  5. Yeh my manual said 23nm, did it with a torque wrench and that's what stripped it, i think i will just do it by feel this time, as apparently there's not alot of pressure to be held. Will also use blue locktight on the new plug with new washer just to be safe.

    I do actually have a gasket not liquid, which will have to be replaced.

    I also got told $14 for each of the header gaskets so might just do them aswell, can't hurt.
  6. I remember thinking the header gaskets seemed overly expensive but mine only cost me $32 for all 4. $14 each is crazy!
  7. Yeh don't have the luxury of time, could prob get them cheaper but have to get them from the stealership on this ocassion...

    Inflation mate, inflation lol