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Sudden new engine rattle

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by mattb, Nov 18, 2006.

  1. Took the Kawasaki GT550 to get cracks in frame welded, wednesday week back. Went back to pick it up from shop, far from my suburb, turned it on, and oil started spurting everywhere - they'd cracked the oil hoses leading to the air cooling system. They went and fixed that for more than the welding work cost, and I returned fot the bike and rode it home. Turns out they'd also broken off the mount on the petrol tank (which was cracking, but definitely not that far gone), and as it was resting on the fuel tap, the main fuel line got cut open on its own nipple. I'm riding along on a stinking hot day, and suddenly fuel's gushing all over the engine and my leg...over an engine prepared like a log fire, beneath a newly filled 22litre petrol tank, around which a man might wrap his legs! Fixed that one, got going (thankyou to the kindly old shop owner with tools). But from the moment I left the welding bike shop, the engine had a new sound.

    It has always had a loud slap, which fades away as the engine warms up. This is a 133,000 original engine and I can accept that. But now's there's a rattle. It's present at all times - quietly when at idle, and loud when revving. Also the oil warning light comes on a lot more, usually as I'm revving hard in acceleration. THe rattle is in the very top of the engine - I don't know the technical terms, but the forward most top-most part of the engine. At first I thought it was the new oil lines and their brass bits, which do rattle at certain revvs, but this is definitely distinct, and in the engine. It wasn't there before (I believe - at least it was far from omnipresent) - it was not there Wed morning when I dropped the bike off, and was there in full presence from Friday when I picked it up. Anybody got any ideas? I wonder - and I am a mechanical idiot compared to many people here so its poor speculation - whether the new oil lines might be the difference? Maybe there's a difference now in oil pressure, and something's not getting it's daily dose?

    My main concern is really as to whether I need to do anything, or if it's something which can be ignored on this old engine (though I will do basic work - I believe the engine should give me at least 200,000 on the clock - that's our pact! but it's not worth spending much on this bike). Otherwise I'll just put it down to character, along with the drum break seizure last night, and the myriad of other problems on this unstoppable tank.

    Ps I need to fix that fuel tank. I can fit a piece of metal where the brace did bolt down - on a piece of metal running over the battery, and have this metal extend under the tank, against the thick metal that was part of the brace, but can anybody suggest a cheap means of attaching this? Is there a metal gluing agent which would work?

    All power to the GT!
  2. u can buy liquide metal. which i use mainly to fix holes in my exhust.

    Most other riders will tell u to go get a new bike but i know whats its like to have break sezuers failures anyays i found its always more relible to drill a whole in metal and stick a few bolts through as glue and welds have a tendancy to break under constant harasment.

    good luck

    sounds like they did a shocking job on ur bike
  3. matt -

    Well, seems there's been some fiddling with your oil lines lately...and oil pressure is often what cam chain tensioners rely on...maybe the new noise is your cam chain?

    Educated guess, but there you have it. I certainly am not a guru regarding your model.

    Best of luck...

  4. Check your oil level, and treat the bike to an oil and filter change.
    Another thing could be that it's time to adjust the timing chain tensioner. If it's like the Z engines (and I think it is, I think the GT engine is the same family), it's a matter of winding the engine over till it's at top dead centre, loosening the pinch bolt on the side of the chain tensioner, letting it adjust (the tensioner has a spring loaded plunger) and then tightening pinch bolt.
    The tensioner is on the rear of the cylinder block, in the centre below the carbs.
    As for the tank bracket, take it to a panelbeater and have it welded on. Should take all of 5 mins. I recomend you DO NOT go back somewhere that caused all that damage before...

    Regards, Andrew.