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Stubborn oil filter bolt

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by Samboss260, Jul 31, 2012.

  1. So changing the oil and filter on the GPX, and can't get the filter bolt off.

    I'm by myself, and it ain't budging.....

    Options? Do I just change the oil for now?
  2. Yes, change the oil, then you can make plans to change the filter at the next service, which you might want to bring forward a bit.

    I'm not familiar with the position of the Kwak twin's oil filter. I'm guessing that it's low and central on the engine, perfectly placed to collect all the road crap thrown up by the front wheel. That always used to be a standard position to put an oil filter anyway.

    I've used a number of techniques on stubborn filter bolts, starting with a length of pipe over the socket handle, with a six point impact socket from a cheap set, and, when that has thoroughly chewed the hex off the bolt, progressing to a big Stilson pipe wrench (a tool which has got me out of a number of mechanical holes, BTW, although it's a bit brutal for delicate things like bikes). I was lucky in that the bolt always came out for me. I knew others who were less so and snapped it off, although, with the head gone, it was possible to get the filter off and gain access to enough of the bolt for the Stilson trick to usually work.

    Of course, this sort of abuse will destroy the bolt, so having a spare on hand is a good idea. Way back when, you could tell how common the problem was because every bike accessory supplier carried a range of heavy duty aftermarket filter bolts with larger than standard heads :D.

    Attacking your bike with extreme leverage is, however, not a course to be taken lightly. Depending on your skills, the facilities available and your need for a running bike, it may be better to take it to a workshop (who will almost certainly apply the Stilson treatment when you are out of sight) or an engineering company (who generally prefer to work on a bare engine and will also initially use the Stilson treatment but will do a better job of fixing the results when it goes wrong :D).

    Before going to such lengths, though, it might be worth getting the engine good and hot and giving the bolt a try then. The expansion in the aluminium that it screws into may be enough to do the trick.
  3. wd40, crc, tapping a bolt can help it 'let go' but the above method should be good enough
  4. Yep, wd.40 and tapping the bolt slightly got it good.

  5. oil filter bolt? You mean you can't get the oil filter out?
    unless your oil filter is a K&N one with a welded on bolt?

    Had a similar problem on me old zx6r when i first got her. the oil filter was seized and the tool i had which ate into the grooves of the filter head ended up rounding the head.

    I ended up punching in a big and long flathead into the filter and used it as leverage to take the filter out. A hammer and a few taps drove the sucker through.
    The oil filter body material is quite soft and is easily dented using a strap wrench.

    punching in doesn't introduce bits in whereas drilling does.. well that's what i thought.
  6. A lot of bikes have a filter element with a cover held on by three bolts. Not the spin on type cars, some bigger bikes and Harley's have.

    Me, I'd use rostoff, hit it, then buzz it off with a rattle gun. After that replace all the studs.
  7. I had the same problem with my Ninja 250R. Previous owner screw it on so tight I nearly tip the whole bike when I tried to take it off. I had to go and buy a breaker bar to take the bolt out.
  8. oil filter is a paper type as shown in the diagram below.

    Engine warm or cold?......warmed up is better
    persuasion with a knockometer will sometimes 'crack' the bolt, as OP have already said.

    Make sure you use a good fitting ring spanner or socket, so as not to round the bolt head.

    Attached Files:

  9. That's the setup mike8863. It's a bolt that holds the case / cover in place. Undo that, and everything just slides out.

    Have another issue about reading the oil level, which I'll create a new thread for, as it's a different problem.
  10. Warm the bike up... this should help loosen things up.

    I have been using "Locktite - Freeze & Release" which comes in a spray can, and seems to work well on stuck bolts,screws, nuts, plugs ..
  11. to read oil level:

    Make sure bike is warmish at a minimum
    lift bike up so its as level as possible
    remove dipstick and wipe on a towel
    replace dipstick but do not screw it in, place it in and pull it out.

    On most bikes the dip stick will have two lines, one higher than the other, essentially you want oil to not go above the top line or below the bottom, good oil level should leave a drop sitting between the two on most bikes.

    Dont overfill your engine it can cause valve clearance issues and if severely overfilled could do serious damage.
  12. Ah.. Thanks, learned something new today. :)
  13. No dipstick on the GPX's. Just a sight glass
  14. Straight from the service manual of the Ninja 250R, which should be the same as the GPX

    If the oil has just been changed, start the engine and
    run it for several minutes at idle speed. This fills the oil
    filter with oil. Stop the engine, then wait several minutes
    until the oil settles.
  15. Cheers guys. All good now. Had to tilt the bike off the side stand to get a proper reading. Funny that before I changed the oil, it was always full even on side stand.
  16. ................
  17. That's too much oil and can also have bad effects on the bike :?
  18. Unless it was just a case of the old oil being so mucky that it was leaving a residue on the glass so it only looked full.
  19. Probably this. I poured the oil that I took out back into the 2 x 1 ltr bottles, and it was just on 2 ltrs. Black as the ace of spades, but 2 ltrs.
  20. Not a black as that filter is going to be
    Ur gunna have ta sort it