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Street Triple flat battery

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by samo, Jul 17, 2014.

  1. Just got my 2009 Street Triple on Tuesday. Came home last night and parked up but left the heated grips on and came out to a flat battery this morning. Feel like a bit of an idiot!

    I tried jump starting it from the car but couldn't get it going. Let it sit for a while with the leads connected and it didn't seem to help. Hitting the starter button would give a bit of a click but no turn over.

    Had a flat on my old bike but it jump started no worries, this is my first EFI bike. Any ideas?

    Does anyone know a decent mobile mechanic that services the Windsor (VIC) area that could come have a look?

  2. I would say charge the battery first up - with a battery charger.

    We had a long thread on here recently with a EFI Triumph Thruxton that wasn't starting and after much troubleshooting it came back to a battery that wasn't up to par.

    Trying to charge the battery from the car won't get you anywhere.

    Invest in a decent battery charger and let it do it's thing.
    • Agree Agree x 2
  3. Agree - go and buy a battery charger, ideally one with a setting for bikes. Everybody needs one sooner or later, and more than once.
    Check how to charge it without frying the electronics.
    Then rewire the heated grips through a relay so that they turn off when the ignition is switched off (It'll happen again, ask me how I know! )
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  5. Can't understand why you couldn't jump start the bike off the car. All I can think of is that the jumper leads were not connected properly. Or I've seen a situation where a battery has "Colapsed" internally so woould not allow the vehicle (a large agricultural quad bike) to be started, so you may need a new battery. And yes get the heated grips wired so that they go off with the ignition, very easily done.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  6. Yeah that's what had me worried Senetor17, couldn't get it started by jump starting it from a car. Will get a charger today and charge up the battery when I get home, see if that works.
  7. Get yourself a CTEK charger, well worth the money!
  8. They are good gear - I have one mounted to my garage wall that the car get plugged into when I am away on long trips - have an extension lead to reach the bike too.
  9. Go for the second one - looks like it can adjust it's charging rate for different size batteries.
    There's no particular reason to toss the battery unless it fails to charge (and hold it) but even if it turns out the battery is shagged, it's always good to have a charger available.

    Or what Fennell said.
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  11. Trickle chargers are brilliant, when I owned a vfr400 they had major issues with the regulator/rectifier so i'd have to charge the battery a few times.
    Ended up replacing the reg/rec and the alternator.

    I'd also recommend upgrading to a lithium battery if you do end up needing to replace yours.
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  13. They are worth their money, a good product. They won't generally lift a battery from dead flat though they are meant as a maintenance charger.
  14. The right model will do both...

    They have a recondition and a float mode
  15. is the float mode for boats?
  16. #16 oldcorollas, Jul 17, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2014
    I gathered that the rate of charge should be roughly around 10% of it's amp-hours, but maybe a bit more to resurrect near dead batts?
    so for a 6-8Ahr battery, you want a charger around 0.8amps for a good charge.. 3-5A on a bike batt could boil it...
    0.8 on a bike batt is more than a trickle charger, but would be trickle on a car battery (I got 0.8 Ctek for bike, and 15amp Ctek for rescuing big car batts :D )

    your charger says to use bike mode (0.8amp) for <14Ahr, and car mode (3.6A) for >20Ahr...
    it has pulse mode to recover dead batt if above 7.5V, so all good :)

    http://www.haigh.com.au/docs/MCU036 Product Manual.pdf

    Yuasa battery manual has some good info on rates http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2014.pdf
    • Like Like x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
  17. It lives!

    Connected the battery to the charger on the motorbike setting overnight. Put it back in this morning and it started straight away.

    Thanks for the help guys. Gonna enjoy the commute to work a whole lot more today. Wont be using the heated grips for a while haha.
  18. Good news. Now keep a watch on the state of charge of the battery for a little while just to be sure.
  19. The later Oxford ones turn off when they detect lack of movement in the battery. Yours obviously don't, but why have em if you can't use them. Either wire them into the ignition via a relay as has been suggested or just get into a simple shutdown routine, grips, kill switch, key. Or if you aren't a fan of the kill switch then grips, key.
    It's not hard, do it every time regardless of whether you've turned them on or not.
    I'm a big fan of routines, they take away a lot of the error factors. I remember when I came back to riding after many years away I kept leaving the indicator on. When a car pulled out from the left and scared the bejezus out of me I fixed that pretty quick with a simple routine, no gear change before indicator off, thumb before clutch. It became a routine so quickly that within a week I wasn't even aware that I was doing it.
    The other good thing about routines is that the little, not so important ones get you in the right mindset for the bigger more important roadcraft ones.
  20. Yeah I'll use them again once I wire them up through a relay, don't trust myself to remember every time.