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Street Triple - Explanation of bike suspension please

Discussion in 'General Motorcycling Discussion' started by chana74, Aug 25, 2008.

  1. Hi,

    I was looking at upgrading the suspension on the streety and know that the Daytona 675 parts will fit on the bike.

    Wondering if anyone locally here has done the conversion? How much did i cost and where was it done?

    Any feedback on improvements to handling would be great too.

    Yes, I do know that the NEW 'R' version has all that thrown in but I have to stick to what I have got.

  2. Having a search through for the posts by [Flux] . He made changes to his 675 Daytona that involved replacing the standard shock. It might be ok to do the same for the Street.
  3. Hi, bought me a Street Triple R yesterday (nearly bought the Duke Monster...) and one of the things that appealed to me on paper was the adjustable suspension. So when I was chatting to the sales guy I asked if they would set the suspension for me on pick up, and he started talking about all the different options, and I realised that I actually don't know what having adjustable suspension actually means!! So, I will use the bike to commute to work in the city (13k), the (hope to be regular) net rider group rides, and the occasional weekend ride with a mate. Old bike was a crappy CBF250 (can't be f**ked), not planning on track work, just wondering what I should know about adjusting suspension etc. (5'9, 85 kilo). Thanks in advance.
  4. First thing about suspension is there's no perfect numbers anyone can give you. It's very subjective, but there are some really good places to start.

    Having fully adjustable suspension basically means you can adjust.

    Preload - The amount of pre tensioning of the spring. This is mostly used to make small geometry adjustments and set your sag

    Compression - The amount of dampening your shocks apply to the compression stroke of the springs. Really only adjusted to shorten/lengthen the amount of time a full stroke takes

    Rebound - Amount of dampening on the return stroke of the spring. This is what you'll make most of your adjustments on.

    Best place to start is to set your rider sag. You'll need a couple of mates to help you. I wont go into the process because there's a billion DIY's out there on it. But once you get this right everything else is easy. It's also something that unless you're super picky or going from street to track days, you will never change.

    From there it's a matter of setting up the valving to suit those preload settings. Again, there's a million DIY's out there about it

    If you're not confident doing this yourself, taking your bike to a suspension specialist to have it set up for you could be the best money you'll ever spend on your bike. Alternatively, most bike mechanics can give you a rough set up that'll be better than the stock settings.

    If you're at all interested in the actuals of doing it yourself, there's a few excellent sources of info.

    Dave Moss, On The Throttle. Mostly talks about track bikes, but it's all applicable.
    Twist of the Wrist II. There's a suspension set up instructional video as part of this that's not bad.
  5. I've not seen the manual for the Street Triple R, but if it's anything like the Tiger 1050 there'll be a section in the manual discussing suspension recommendations/typical settings, probably towards the middle/back half of the manual.

    As an example, for the Tiger 1050 the manual gives example suspension settings for "Normal riding", "Firm"/sports riding, and for pillion, luggage, or luggage+pillion.

    Succinctly, your adjustable suspension will allow you to adjust the amount of:
    - preload (how much the spring is pre-compressed to compensate for your weight, weight of pillion and luggage)
    - compression damping and rebound damping (how quickly/aggressively the bike tries to absorb bumps... Basically, adjusting the stiffness)

    "Generally speaking", softer damping rates will be a little more comfortable/less harsh and be easier to ride on very rough roads. Stiffer damping rates will handle high-speed riding better.

    On my Tiger I tend to use the 'soft' settings for touring and for spirited riding on really shitty backroads to help absorb the bumps. For sports riding on good road surfaces I adjust the damping rates to the "firm"/sporty settings. If I'm carrying a lot of luggage I use a little more rear preload and damping to compensate.

    Like Benny says above, though, it might be beneficial to visit a suspension shop and have them help you out if you find the standard settings to be 'off'.
  6. Thanks all, the manual is pretty light on, I guess I'll take it for a ride on the weekend after pickup, and check out some of the references just posted. Perhaps a steep learning curve, but I bought the bike to learn to be a better rider and enjoy all the complexities.
  7. Just tell the guy what kind of riding and roads and your weight and he should be able to set it up how you want.