Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

stop smokin

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by spoonervx800, Jul 20, 2005.

  1. I havea 91 suzuki vx 800 that was suposed to have been rebuilt when I bought it how ever the crapy bike dealer screwed me. It was fine till the first oil change after the rebuild (ha ha ha), so my question is just a guess what does anybody think it is and whats the best coarse of action, no more warrenty so I have to pay to fix it now.
    ok both cylinders smoke but the rear seems to be the worse of the 2, at first it smelt like gas but now mostly oil and white blue smoke , when you twist the throttle you get a slight black puff. the rear cylinder usually fouls if the bike sits for a few hours it hasnt in the last couple of weeks but I put a hotter plug in it and some 20w50.
    Any help or suggestions would be great.need more info let me know

  2. It reads like he put a "stop smoke" additive in the oil.

    When does it smoke?

    If it does it on start up mostly, you could be a bit lucky here in that it may just be valve seals.

    Do a compression test and you will know a bit more.

    Is there any bottom end noises?

    If not it shouldn't be that expensive, provide you are willing to do a bit of labour yourself.

    I'm not sure if there are any aftemarket pistons for these thing. You will have to do a bit of homework.

    If it's not rattling too much, then you might be able to do what the dealer did untill you can afford the rebuild.
  3. It smokes all of the time, but mostly clears up after it runs a while, but still smokes just not as bad like I said after it runs a while. there is a knock or tap in the front cylinder but I was told that they do that but im sure I was told wrong cuz it just dont seem right plus it dont sound like the rear cylinder is doing the same thing. how hard is it to change the valve seals? maby I can change the rist pin and piston if thats what is cousing the knock without completly tearing it apart. what do you think? I dont have much experiance working on bikes. do you know anywhere to get parts for a rare bike like mine?

  4. It sounds like you need to do the top end.

    i.e. from the top of the crank case up.

    I think your bike still seperates at this point. Some bikes of later design don't.

    You will have to find someone that can supply oversized pistons and rings. They will be something like +0.2mm. Alternative find someone that can supply a big bore kit. Wiseco and JE are good places to start your internet search.

    Afte that it's pretty easy.

    Remove tanks and carbs. Remove the heads and barrels.

    Take them to an engine reco place and ask them to seat the valves replace the seal and deck the heads square (depending on their advice).

    also get them to bore the cylinders to suit the pistons.

    Also take the oportunity to replace the cam chain.

    Then just bolt it all back together.


    Somewhere in here will be a workshop manual.

    It will spell out the best way to do what I've said. You will need the manual to help with things like torque setting on cylinder head bolts and camshaft alignment.

    The only special tools you should need are a torque wrench and a ring complessor.

    Parts wise it should just be the pistons, ring, gaskets and cam chain.

    You may need a small end bush, if you guestimate is right about the front cylinder.

    Have fun with it. It's not as scary as most people think
  5. Thanks for the help, I will try to update this post with any new info as it coms......Thanks