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sticky throttle help!!

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by idontlikemondays, Jun 6, 2006.

  1. anyone in sydney for the last 48 hours would know what a piss down its been. anyway, i went out this morning in a brief respite of sunshine to shake all the water off the tarpolin covering my bike, checked the controls and bloody throttle feels like someones poured resin through it!!
    help anyone!!
    it slowly returns to normal, but it takes about 5 seconds, i dunno how water could make it stuck like this? maybe the rubber expanded with the wetness?

  2. Water down the cable and a bit of corosion?? try lubing the cable.
  3. My throttle was sticking recently. I unscrewed the throttle cable handle bar housing (2 screws). It came apart in halves... snibbed out the cables from the plastic lugs and slipped the grip/plastic case off. I found a sticky build up coating the clip on and on the inside of the throttle plastic case.

    A rag and kero cleaned it all up. It's back to being a snap happy throttle now.


  4. yea my gpx did this earlier but just open up the switch block (the block that houses open/close throttle cables and the cut off switch) and clean the cables if this still doesn't fix it you may need to lube the whole line to do this you require a 'pressure cable luber' and a can of lubricant DO NOT use WD40 it dries out and also conducts electricity. Not sure if it is the best but i used INOX on my cables ages ago and still working great.

    Tell us how this goes goodluck.
  5. I second not using wd40. It goes tacky and attracks dust.

    It will work in the short term but make it worse in the long run.

    Use some sort of spray solvent. Spray carb cleaner may help and then get a few drops of oil down the cable.

    Same goes for the carb linkages, but they shouldn't need any oil(someone?).
  6. I had this problem... I completley dismantled the throttle handle dry lubed all of the surfaces, lubed the cable, reassembled the grip and it still sticked... So then I took my tank, airbox and lines off to get to the throttle bodies and wd40'd the springs bushings and bearings then lubed the bottom end of the cable... Its a long process but it works well, next stop is a quick action throttle mod...

    Now there feels like there is no resistance to the throttle.. mmm silky smooth :p
  7. WD40 was prolly not the best idea. As i understand it, WD-40 actually destroys bearings, by pitting and marking them. I saw the article in a magazine somewhere which had pictures of a bearing ring oil with lube and one with WD-40 for like 6 months. After both bearings were removed the WD-40 one was stuffed (which they already new due to the feeling it was giving). I think they were on a push bike crank.
  8. yep read a slimilar artical and did you remember that that was a high force aviation bearing? I'm sorry but inox, crc, and wd40 should be fine on a low force bearing. Besides its not like its the end of the earth if you use wd40... wd40 can easily be flushed with kerosene on a brush and the relubed with what ever you need.
  9. WD40 was NOT designed as a long term lubricant. It is a water displacing/rust penetrating lube only.
    The best thing for cables is engine oil. Just buy a cheapo oil can from Kmart or wherever and put some good old engine oil in it. When you have your cable ends exposed, trickle a drop or few of oil down between the inner and outer cable. It may take 5 minutes of your time to get the oil to run down teh cables one drop at a time, but you don't need much to make a big difference.
    Also, with throttles, take the time to slip the throttle off the end of the bars, clean up bar and handle throoughly and use a nice waterproof grease between the two. This wil make a huge difference believe me.

    Regards, Andrew.
  10. Start with simple stuff, make sure there is nothing rubbing against your throttle i.e. switchblock. Adjust or oil in between the rubber stop and switchblock. I agree with others, use engine or household oil.
  11. Mondays, have you found out the problem??

    I think I'd hold off dribbling oil onto cables until you were sure it was a cable friction issue.

    If it was working fine one day and then not the next after some rain, you should be able to isolate the problem this way:

    Pull apart the throttle housing [sometimes also includes switches] and take the throttle off. If there's muck under the throttle grip on the handle bar, then you're likely to have found your problem. Just clean up the bar and the inside of the grip. Test by slipping throttle grip back on without attaching cables and it should turn silky smooth. Job done. If it's clean on the other hand....

    Pull the exposed "top" throttle cable towards you[equivalent to rolling on throttle] and then let it go. If there's friction it wont snap back freely but now you need to isolate whether it's a stuck carb butterfly or whether it's cable friction... take a punt on cable...

    Let's not go butterflies unless we have to.


  12. everyone thanks heaps for your help
    i took it apart, had a squiz, only a little build up of crap around the throtle. any way, i cleaned it up, put a tiny bit of engine oil on it, and; when the steering column s dead straight, it doesnt stick, but as you turn it to the right, it gets stickyer, untill it actually wont release at all if its pointed full right. is this something i can live with? id rather fix it. i used to get a simlar problem, but i think the choke cable was causing it, if i had the sterring full left it would stall unless i gave it a lot of revs. dont get it anymore but, now this.

  13. all motorcyles that control the carburettors via wire cables all have the problem of the cable being pulled or pushed depending on which way the steering is turned.

    that is why there is meant to be slack in the system to account for this but something is not right in your case so you may need to adjust the two cables (pull/push) in a fashion to allow it to work together instead of against each other.

    how much slack does the throttle have now when the steering is centred? this will give everyone a better idea of whats happening.

    once again goodluck
  14. went out and checked it, to me it seems like there is a lot of slack when its centered, i turn to the right, both cables have tension, to the left the release cable has tension, the other does not. maybe when i put it all back together i got the adjustment wrong? im assuming you adjust it by the bolt on one of the two metal casings extending out of the switch block??

  15. thanks for the pic viper, the 2-3mm freeplay helps, i'll try it tonight.