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sticking brakes.

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by idontlikemondays, Feb 28, 2008.

  1. need a bit of help. My front brakes seized the other day, resulting in a low speed but colourful high side. Getting another bike road worthy was a priority so i only had a squiz at the subject today.
    The problem appears to me that the mount and the caliper are sticking. I.e i cant even lever them apart with a small closed ended spanner. Is there particular way to seperate them? The brakes in question are your bog standard 2 pot nissins. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. Pull them off dom, pull all the sliding pins and clean them, clean everything else. Once they are off you should be able to see where they are grabbing. Which bike? Any damage?
  3. Bugger, hope you're ok mate!? Hopefully it wasn't the shiny storm :shock:
  4. You might be able to use brake cleaner spray to help move them...
  5. Highly probable that your caliper and pistons will be rusted/pitted and gunked up with crappola. Pull them to completely to bits and put a seal kit thru both calipers. Cost you between 2-300 bananas approx.
    Well worth it, you wont recognise it's stopping =; ability.
  6. lol, thanks guys. Just the ole xr on the way to work, bark busters were a bit scratched up, other than that i think more damage was done to the road! Jared if it was the storm i'd still be sobbing like a little girl in bed. :LOL:
    Yeah movin rusted up sounds like the likely answer, took her for a swim last week and didn't pull the brakes apart afterwards :oops: my bad. 300 bucks for a rebuild kit? :shock: ebay methinks.
    Thanks again fellas
  7. Dom, $300 is if you had 2 front calipers and got a thieving spanner to do it.
    Yours, $30 bucks and some antisieze
  8. I did the Diversion 900 few months back. Yes it was thievery but from go to woe, doing everything myself, I seem to recall it came to 226$ for what was basically a complete rebuild.
    Although I cant remember if that 226 was including the master cyclinder which I did also.
    I just had a really crap lever pressure even after bleeding a few times, so from there was process of elimination.
    As master cylinder was easier fix than the calipers, I tried that first. But as so often is the case, 1 problems fixed, just reveals the next weakest link in the chain.

    Looking back at it, the calipers were by far the weaker link as they where gummed up with heaps of crap and crystallized brake fluid. They were essentially doing exactly same as yours, grabbing pretty sluggishly and then not really letting go, just the run out of the disk being untrue forcing the pads apart.
    So if I had to do it over again, I would probably start there with a caliper rebuild first. From vague memory the seals from Yamaha where about 80 bananas- :? but dont quote me on that.
  9. It might not be the pistons seized in the caliper, could just be the pins and sliders are locked up, i would pull the caliper off first and check all the pins are moving freely. I had an old xr250 once which had the same problem, the pins had started to rust and pit and seized up in the caliper. I pulled them out, sanded them down a bit, re-greased everything and put it all back together and it was all good after that, total cost $0.

    You can check at the same time if the pistons are moving freely in the caliper, if they are stuck too, then its rebuild time with new seals.
  10. Slide pins/channels or whatever your bike runs should be cleaned and relubed every time you change your brake pads in my opinion. I use a high temp bearing grease. Check teh boots that seal them from the elements for damage as well, and replace as required.
    It takes 10 mins, and you already are in a position to take teh caliper off, so why not?
    I have learnt not to fcuk around with brakes, just do as much regular preventative maintenence you can when you touch the system at all.

    Regards, Andrew.
  11. yeah i ended up buying a second hand caliper, the sliding pins were seized good. i dont use high temp bearing grease but, aparently it can decrease the longevity of the rubber seals? i think this only applies to natural rubber seals but.
    i use castrol GPRB in the sliding pins, and from now on i will relube ALL pivot points and moving parts every time i service the bike (every 2000kms). crashing as a result of mechanical (this case operator maintinance) faliure is farked, and i never ever want to be in the postition of having no control over the bike again.
  12. Yearly/ when pads are replaced, is plenty often enough.
    The bearing grease won't harm teh rubber boots, I've been using it on caliper slides/pins for near on 20 years with no bad effects.

    Regards, Andrew.
  13. what is this antiseize you speak of tweet?
  14. dont tell me you have already seized the crank on the firestorm :wink: :LOL: