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Starting my SP1 after 6 months

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by SimeSP1, Jul 19, 2006.

  1. Hi Folks,

    I havn't started my VTRSP1 since early Feb. I'm wondering if there is any danger of damaging her if I try to start it normally. Is there anything I need to do before I try?


  2. If it was me I would make sure the battry is fully charge and in good condition.
    Also an oil and filter change would not hurt. Other than that it should be ok.
  3. Deferring to Scumbags greater wisdom, all I'd do in addition would be to turn the engine over on the ignition without starting it. Just get some oil to the bits that rub together before it fires into life.
  4. If it's really stressing you then you can remove the spark plugs and squirt some WE40 down the bores and let that soak for 24 hours then turn it over.

    I would be very surprised if an engine sitting only for a few months needs that though...
  5. making sure you drain the oil soon after that!
  6. WD40? That'd wash oil from the bores. I'd only do that if you could hand crank the engine and it had been standing for years.

    Really, a bike that's been standing for that length of time is not a problem, as long as the oil was good at the time. It never hurts to change the oil and filter, except the oil is likely to be quite thick given the weather and may not drain easily. I'd be tempted to turn it over on the starter for a few secs before I wanted it to fire (easy on the Blade, don't know about the VTR) and then let it burst into life. Other than that, I'd just start it.

    Only other thing is that I know some fuels go 'off' if they stand for long periods of time. Might be worth either draining it or filling up asap. Mind you, at $1.40 ltr I wouldn't want to lose it!
  7. To ensure a good start, as above fully charge the battery.
    I'd also consider draining the fuel from the carb float bowls, so you can have nice fresh fuel in there for an easy start up. Save the battery and starter for the real thing!
    Other than that, should catch easily enough.
    I just started my truck after nearly 12 months not running without any if this! Mind you, 7.2 to 1 compresion means it wil run on a rumour of octane, so stale fuel is not an issue.

    Regards, Andrew.
  8. EFI
  9. Thanks Guys,

    The battery was pretty much cactus anyway so I'm going to replace that and it was serviced a month or 2 before it was last ridden so the oil and filter should still be ok, I also checked with Redwing and they said just check the batt and drain and change the fuel and I should be fine. It seems the consensus from you guys is other than maybe the fuel and batt there shouldn't be a prob. I will give it a few cranks with the ingnition before firing as well.

  10. there's unlikely to be much in there that is useful after 6 months, particularly if it was stored in a cold damp shed with a valve open.

    6 months isn't much to worry about at all, but if you were, or were starting a bike that hadn't been touched for many years, you'd be better off with a very lightweight oil (marine fogging oil is pretty good) spray into cylinders and then turn over by hand. Start it and ride for 15 minutes, come back and change the oil (again).

    for 6 months, i'd just charge the battery and see if it started - if not, like the others suggested, change the fuel and maybe the plugs then try again.
  11. Which is why I said I wouldn't go to that length. And yes to the other person one should change the oil before starting after doing that.
  12. not starting an SP1 for 6 months! Bugger how to start it mate, what's your excuse for not having started it in the first place (unless you have some other brutal machine of fangfulness) :grin:
  13. Bah, it's an engine made of metal, it's not made of glass :roll:

    Make sure your kill switch is set to OFF and hit the starter. Let it turn over a few times, return the switch to on, pull the choke and kick the biatch in the guts.
  14. My 2 cents would be to pull the plugs out and crank it over for a while to get the oil to the heads. Drain the fuel (will now be good to use to clean parts) and refresh as others have said. As for the battery, that's a no brainer.

    As it cranks, you'll notice it slow slightly due to the oil pressure. Good sign.

    Cranking it while the kill switch is off (sounds like an odd bike if you can do that) won't help because the idea is to wet the parts with as little load as possible. If the plugs are in, you will have the full weight on the crank. As for the heads, they'll suffer a bit but will be fine.

    Toss the plugs in and run it for a while before changing the oil.

    That's how I'd do it, but others have different ideas.
  15. If it was me Id probably dump the fuel, doesnt like sitting around that long. Then just fire her up.
  16. completely missing the point of hydrodynamic lubrication - pump pressure is often to remove fluid from the bearing, not force it in. Advances in oil technology and bearing design have resulted in reduction in required oil pump pressure rather than increases to account for higher stresses and surface speeds.

    You need oil at sliding parts, sure, but there is no difference between doing this without the engine starting or with it. ie cranking with the kill switch engaged is pointless if you are going to stop at some point - there is no difference, especially to an EFI system that will not spin the engine out of control like a choke and carbs will, between starting and not starting but still high speed spinning the thing.

    Non positive displacement type pumps may also not respond well to low speeds and not build pressure at all (although most current types are gear which is positive).

    ie, it all boils down to the same as a simple oil drain and refill - you have to rely on the pump coming up to pressure fairly quickly and use the oil left in the bearings to take care of the interim - just keep an eye on the pressure light and turn it off if it doesn't come up fairly quickly. Six months isn't enough to solidify oil so you won't have a problem.

    Cylinders can be a problem with cast iron liners and similar steel rings as the two can stick if not turned over regularly (this is what the fogging oils prevent when you put the engine into storage). Ceramic liners should render this practice obsolete. Bearings don't have the same problems - just start the bloody thing.
  17. Where's a good place to get a good price on a new Battery?
  18. At Garners in the city.
    Cheapest one I ever bought.
    I find that trickle charging is best on first charge. Battery will last much longer.