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Starting issues - 1998 Suzuki Across

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by ._., Feb 23, 2009.

  1. Hey. Long read so if you want a short version with no history just scroll down to the bottom.

    I've been having a few issues with how my bike has been starting over the last week or so. It started last Monday after the bike had been sitting there not having been ridden for about 4 or 5 days while I was sick. I start the bike up in the morning and after a few seconds the revs start to get lower and lower until it eventually died. Tried starting it back up and it would just kick over and over and over until the battery started to fade.
    Pushed it to the mechanic thinking it may have been some sort of fuel pump issue (on the advice of a mate, switched it over to reserve to see if the fuel pump was working and it made a few clicky noises as per normal so that seemed fine) and let them know about it.
    I left the bike there for a few days and was told they would be changing some electrical part (forgot the name of it now but the part alone was quoted at $350) as it was sending to much charge through and blowing a fuse. Fair enough, gotta do what they gotta do.

    Went to pick the bike up to find they had just changed the fuse and flushed the carbies, which was fine with me seeing as it cost me less than half the price quoted for the price of the new part they were originally going to put in.

    Starting the bike up at the shop I had noticed it didn't start as cleanly as it had been before the problem started originally, but it went so I was happy with that (brakes also seemed to be stopping the bike a lot better)

    Over the next few days it was still not starting as cleanly as usual, a bit like it would when the bike was running rich a month or two ago. Then this morning after not riding it over the weekend the bike died on me the same way it did last week. This time however, I had kept it going a bit longer by opening the throttle about half way until it wasn't enough and died. Turned it over again and this time had to give it full throttle to get it to start and keep it above 5000rpm for about 5 - 10 seconds then 4000rpm with the choke on the whole way (I have NEVER had to use the choke on this bike before in the year that I have had it) while I put the bike cover away and got my gear on. After a minute or so of this I let the choke off and it was idling fine.

    --- SO IN SHORT ---

    Bike dies when starting and the only way to get it going is to have a wide open throttle and keep the revs right up for a while before it will stay on on its own.

    Trying to figure this out before taking it back to the mechanic and handing over more dosh and having the inconvenience of no ride for another week.
  2. i'd check the idle air mixture on the carbs and the slide holders, etc.

    ...but thats just cos I know the carbs on the across and much less about electrical probs.

    Worn out slide holders generally make the bike run like a dog and could make it stall or hard to start.

    worth a look IMO.

    How many Km on your across and have the carbs been serviced before?
  3. I had an across, I would put my money on the carbie float needles. They get warn and dont open properly making it cut out. Happened to me and 3 others I know
  4. Harte- 50,000km on the bike at the moment. No idea if the carbies have been serviced before. The throttle slide holders were replaced about 1000km's ago and the needles were ok when they were taken out to adjust the fuel mixture, but I'll have a look at them next chance I get.

    Dupster - To check the float needles, do you mean to check the float height, or is there a way to just check the needles without checking the float height? I don't think I want to be pulling the entire carby out myself is all.

    May need to check the fuel filter too.

    Hard work with limited tools. Good times...and many thanks for the responses so far. Appreciated.
  5. well if the holders are only 1000 old then it won't be them.
    Could still be a balancing issue (idle air mixtures). Requires a manometer and a bit of fiddling to get them in tune. Could be that the diaphragms are torn, etc.

    Anything to do with the floats would need the carbs out I think... bad float heights could mean flooding and also worth a look if you get to the point of pulling the carbs out.
  6. Spark plugs?

    Nah I think you're probably on the right track with the fuel filter, carby slides etc... Have a look in the airbox too, does the filter need a change?
  7. Looks like the bike has beat me to the punch. Leaving work, before I've had a chance to take a good look at it, it refused to start. Battery ended up dying. I tried push starting it with the aid of a fellow rider here, which resulted in an epic failure.

    Going to get it towed to the mechanic in half an hour.
    Hopefully this time they do a more thorough job of it. Not happy at the moment.
  8. Yeah mate to check them your gonna have to pull them apart. GL with the mechanic and let us know what they find :wink:
  9. Firstly you cant use choke and throttle at the same time, it cuts choke off, sounds like the bike is running rich, might need to screw in those 4 flat head screws on top of the carbies to limit fuel, looks like your flooding the carbs with petrol, might need a clean air filter too. To test if its rich , you will smell it but also hear the thing farting at around 4k, you will smell a petrol smell too, if you wait an hour and try again and it works, it was flooded, spark prob wet too. good luck and stop waisting cash on mechanics with simple problems, but may need to spend some cash on a tool box :wink: