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Star 650 mods

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by Starman, Sep 18, 2013.

  1. Hey, I have a VStar 650 with V&H short shots and had GAK pod filters put on top of the carbs and they ended up having to put 147.5 jets in it and after dyno was getting 40hp. Is that what is expected? Also, still only goes up to about 110 km/hr before it feels like it is straining and starts getting a little vibration going on. Which was happening with only VH pipes with no pod or rejet as well. Getting around 210km before hitting reserve.

    Is this all normal and to be expected?
  2. Hi Starman, I don't think it's right.
    I had a 2011 xvs650 custom, fitted with V&H Cruzers, a high flow filter, and rejetted to suit. I was getting 240 km before hitting reserve.
    On the dyno it was getting 39-40kw. Ran pretty smoothly all the way up the range through 120k/h.
    I'd get a 2nd opinion from a workshop or someone familiar with the model.
  3. My stock standard XVS650 gets 240-250 Kms to reserve but that is mostly in small town driving. I have had it up to 135Kph on a straight, open free-way (by the speedo which is very optimistic). I have no idea what the power is nor do I care. It is most happy below 100kph as it (like all xvs650s) tends to vibrate as speed increases. With the mods you have done I would expect the economy to suffer especially if you use the enhancements. If you want economy you need a scooter, if you want to hoon you need a street bike. A cruiser is for sitting back and enjoying the ride.
  4. Thanks for your reponse pod. I appreciate your feedback. (y) But.... I wasnt expecting to be judged and I am not stoopid.:( I know the difference between a scooter/street bike/cruiser and the 650 has more then enough bottom end power for me. The only reason I know how much power it has is due to the dealer putting it on the dyno after carb adjustment and giving me a report. I do not know top speed as I only want to cruize. I was just checking to see if the vibration above 100 was normal and I would simply like to cruize relativley vibration free at 100 - 110km/hr. Again, I do appreciate your feedback.:) :) :)
  5. Thanks Stever42, I was planning on taking it to a local authorized mechanic in a small shop who really knows her stuff for the next service (5000km) and I will talk to her about my concerns. Thanks mate.

  6. I have never ridden a 650 cruiser but it sounds like you are expecting too much out of a small cruiser twin. Perhaps it is time to go to a bigger CC?
  7. Sorry Starman! it was not my intention to upset. I just don't seem to put in writing what I am thinking. I also would like it to be a little smoother at 100-110Kph but that appears to be the norm from what I have read here and on USA and British forums. I was referring to the exhaust note not hooning as such. To enjoy the sound you have to use the accelerator and that uses fuel. I don't have good exhaust but the previous owner did drill 3 holes in each muffler. Not as good as the real thing but I don't have the funds for V&H. I let it rip a little but still get consistent 240-250Ks before reserve. A bigger bike would be nice but I find for the riding I get to do the 650 is quite adequate and easy to manoeuvre.

    Enjoy the ride
    • Like Like x 1
  8. You could try swapping the sprokets mate.
    You will loose bottom acceleration but you will gain a higher top speed, reducing the shake and strain at higher speeds.
  9. It is shaft drive and no adjustment possible.
  10. Starry, I have a early vstar 650 , which runs V&H cruisers and a hypo charger. It gets 250+ before res and runs fairly smoothly up to 115. Smooth as can be expected for a large 2 banger any way.
  11. The vibration is normal for a vtwin, and the fuel consumption isn't extraordinary how you ride could make the difference between 210 or 240 Km's to a tank.

    If vibration is excessive look at wheels are they true? Are they balanced?
  12. #12 phil01, Oct 4, 2013
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2013
    round tyres work best
    get them balanced

    if there a little sus replace them but
    dont go those std dunlops
  13. Oh didn't realise. Sorry.
  14. Could you change the wheel size? Go to a large wheel should give you a higher top end, still reducing the bottom though...
  15. Make sure they spend a minute to properly sync the carbies.