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Staintune - no good for commuters?

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by mattb, Feb 24, 2010.

  1. Since getting my '98 Hornet 600 a few months back it's had tuning problems. When it gets hot enough for the fan to come on, the idle starts to waver badly, it backfires ever so gently but frequently, and starts to stall. This is in stop-start traffic, at idle. At highway speed it runs cool all day even on 40 degree days. And when the problem is manifesting, it won't stall or waver if held open at higher rpm, even when hot and stationary.

    It has a Staintune exhaust designed for this model (so said the private seller of the bike, and the ST website lists it). Staintune claim that "Re-jetting [...] is not needed with STAINTUNE exhausts." They also claim that "STAINTUNE exhaust systems are developed from a stock configured bike for real world street riding conditions, rather than full-throttle riding on a heavily modified race bike."* Well in my experience, assuming I have a good and correct example, neither claim is as true as it should be. I bought a stock used exhaust, fitted it to the bike a few days ago, and immediately the problems have disappeared! I've been taking my wife to work in peak hour traffic, then turning around to face an immediate return trip - an hour sitting in traffic. The bike got hotter this morning than it's been for me, and yet: smooth as glass and as self-assured as a 19 year old motorcyclist. Clearly the Hornet, which is reputed to run on the lean side from the factory, is too lean when fitted with this pipe, at least in the first 1/4 of the throttle, so ST's claim about jetting appears to be untrue regarding this model of pipe. And though the pipe is fine when maintaining enough speed to keep cool, it is not so good for "real world riding conditions" when they include city commuting.

    All this assumes I have the right pipe and that my bike is basically in tune (it doesn't need to be perfect - it needs to be "real world" in tune), both which I think is true. Certainly I have evidence the latter is true - it simply does run well and feel good now! I'm going to sell the pipe on eBay, and I'm comfortable with a weekend or country rider buying it. But here, at least, is an anecdotal suggestion that the exhaust has its problems for an older Hornet. To draw the broader lesson I have learned through this and similar experiences: you might want to think twice about just slipping on an after-market open exhaust if you're commuting in slow traffic a lot.

    I'm interested to hear other's experiences; I'm sure the general experience of Staintune's above claims are positive?


  2. Oh this isn't good as me a mate and my brother were intending of making a trip to megacycle to all get new pipes on the bikes.

    09 Ninja 250
    08 CB400
    08 Bellagio 940

    I use my bike to commute daily and if things like this happen it would be a waste of $600 and a hassle.
  3. Well, I'm suspecting plenty of others will have a different experience to me, at least on other models of bike?
  4. realisticly. adding a more free flowing pipe will always make the bike run leaner. and staintune is just trying to get more business saying it wont need rejetting

    it may not always be leaner by much though and may not need tinkering. but yours sounds like it does.

    it may need a larger pilot jet, different needle position or a different main jet.

    it may not need any. it all depends on how the bike was jetted before.

    I'd start having a tinker with those carbies matt. do some research they're pretty simple things in the end.

    first thing i would do is raise the needle 1 clip (as it dosent need any parts and is easy)
    other wise you might need to look at pilot jets. but i think its most likley needls unless its bogging right off idle.

    does it backfire on decel?
  5. My bike didn't need re-jetting. It used to backfire on decel quite a bit, but, since I installed my K&N air filter, it has reduced almost completely. Oh and I ride my bike in all sorts of conditions, commuting, touring, scratching...
  6. I have a Staintune on my Norge 1200.

    It did require a remap of the injection system in order to get it running cleanly but I wouldn't trade the pipe for anything... the stock system was WAY too quiet.
  7. staintune pipes i've seen have a small staintune logo stamped on the pipe...will be running lean as mentioned by slick...get it dyno-tuned
  8. If it only happens at idle, I'd try a twiddle of the idle mixture screws to see if that helps. Half a turn on each would be a good starting point.

    Admittedly, on some bikes, the pilot jet is so lean that you can screw the mixture screw right out and the mixture gets no richer than "just about OK", but it might be worth a shot before you discard a grand's worth of pipe for an Ebay price.
  9. Only thing I did with the bmw was to adjust the throttle bodies as it was idling very high.
    In the first week or so it was backfiring and shooting out flames for a bit until the adaptive efi "adapted".
    I noticed an immediate increase in midrange and obviously a very nice sound.
    This was 7 years ago now.
    It's great mate.
  10. thats quite a good sign that the jetting wasnt right lol. its good the k&n helped though
  11. Mine backfires a fair bit on decel, but for a bike without a decel jet, this is to be expected :D

    No way I'd swap my staintune for a stock exhuast/

    If it's causing that much grief, get it rejetted.
    If you can't do it yourself, pull off the carbie and get it rejetted by someone who know's how.
  12. Pulls clean right through from idle to redline in every gear and gets amazing fuel consumption to boot. Yeah the jetting isn't right...=D>
  13. running a k&n and a pipe you will definetly be lean. unless the bike was way rich to begin with.

    a slighly lean mixture will generally feel smooth and powerfull and provide better fuel ecconomy than a ritch setup.

    but its obviously not as good as a perfectly jetted bike. popping on decel is a good sign that its a bit lean but thats not neccisarily always the case.

    i find carbie stuff interesting and have done a bit of reading and playing around the last few years. not saying you should change anything if its working fine for you but that is a sign of it being lean.
  14. Ha ha, spoken like a true single rider! :) NB your referred to carbie in the singular. I wouldn't run my SR500 on the stock pipe either. But then it's one carb to deal with. Have you seen a Hornet up close...they look like spaceship components!

    Actually, the Hornet is a primarily functional bike for me, which means I want it smooth and quiet (I typically spend about 12 hours on it once a week), and I especially want those things if it can't offer me thuds or rumbles, the things which move my soul; and I value reliability and trouble free riding over coolness. I guess I've become a true Honda rider!
  15. I've got a set of Staintunes on my Monster, I haven't had any issues and they sound glorious.
  16. I bought my strom with the staintune already on it and it had a little woofle/backfire on decelerating but it never ran hot.
    But the service manager at the dealership I last went to noticed that and decided to finetune the bike's ECU via the factory tuning box just to satisfy himself that the AFR ratio was spot-on.
    All smiles here.
  17. Even with a correct tune and a well fitted muffler a more open setup can be a bit back-firey.

    My triump carbon fibre carries on a bit if it spends a bit too much time at low revs and it has a factory tune.

    If yours isn't gas tight and not jetted right then I would expect much more troubles.

    To the point of stalling seems excessive however.

    and yeah I don't believe all the supper positive journalism you read about staintune. Sure they are a pretty good product on average, but I suspect there is a bit of old boys club going on there.
  18. And you can buy a bung for the pipe from Staintune. They cost $25 and they make the muffler a lot quieter, but don't infringe on the lovely sound at the same time.
  19. While we're on the subject of exhausts what's the best way of cleaning up marks like these from them and keeping them nice and shiny at all times?


    I have tried a few products to no avail.
  20. That looks like melted boot sole that does. I which case the only surefire way of getting rid of it is scraping it off with something like a razor blade. Something like MEK might get it off though. MEK is Methyl Ethyl Ketone and is the main ingredient in most paint strippers IIRC.