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Sprocket Ratios, Advice & Info needed from those in the

Discussion in 'Cruisers' at netrider.net.au started by ozkiwi, Oct 31, 2007.

  1. Sprocket Ratios, Advice & Info needed from those in the

    My son has just bought a 1996 XV Virago 250H as his first road bike. We have just cleaned and lubed the sprockets & chain using advice we read here (thanks guys & gals).

    We counted the teeth on the sprockets and what we have is:-
    Front = 17
    Rear = 45

    When we asked our local Yamaha bike shop about replacements, we were told that standard is:-
    Front = 16
    Rear = 43 .

    We are looking to replace sprockets & chain soon due to wear and wondered what difference going back to standard will do.

    My son is 100kg and 185cm.

    Thanks for being here and all your helpful advice...

    I haven't been around bikes since my old K2 Honda 750 back in the 70's but I can tell you all, the feeling never goes away.. I'm hooked again and I haven't been for a ride on it yet, I've just been working on it and showing him how to lovingly care for his new(ish) toy.....

    Oh What A Feeling...

    Ozkiwi aka Steve
  2. It is a very popular modification to change from standard to 17t front on those. I did it with mine and it made for smoother highway cruising at slightly lower RPMs.

    Side effect is you can make it through an intersection in first gear without having to shift up into 2nd straight away.

    Going back to standard will make it a tiny bit harder to stall the bike away from the lights.
  3. Not really, what is important to performance is the final drive ratio:

    45/17 = 2.65
    43/16 = 2.68

    :roll: No appreciable difference.

    What you will find is that this has nothing to do with performace, but cost savings by Yamaha. Instead of producing a range of sprockets and standard chain pitches, they use a common set between many models.
  4. Actually I owned a Virago250 for 36,000km and went around Australia on it. The difference is not much in numbers, but quite noticeable in the way the bike behaves. For example, it makes the bike cruise at 100km/h at a slightly different RPM, but there is much less vibration there.
    And when you pull away from the lights around a corner, you'd much rather change into 2nd as you are standing the bike up again, rather than halfway around the corner when you've got the gearlever and footpeg jammed against the ground.

    So the numbers are similar but the difference is appreciable in the real world.
  5. It called tweeks in the model. Every machine is different even though it comes off the same production line.
    Some bikes have up to 10hp difference just because of the way they hang together (probability).

    Science is still king. Else the modern production of aeroplanes and spacecraft would never happen. Straight from design to production.

    But glad your enjoying your bike!
  6. Thanks, but I sold that bike about 12 years ago... still enjoy riding one now and again when I get the chance though. Good bike. Really did like having the gearing longer.

    But I just noticed I wasn't paying attention ... I didn't notice the rear sprocket change, just the front, so looks like you were closer to the mark. :LOL:
  7. You can also play with sprockets to change the wheelbase, without having to cut your chain each time. The difference between a 2.65 and 2.68 is bugger all though, as is the effect of a 15mm shorter wheelbase. You'd only be tweaking like that for track work.
  8. Thanks to all who replied to my 1st post

    I appreciate all the replies and the help with this one... Now we know to stick to the ones we have already rather than change back...