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Spanner night #14 - brake pads and minor service

Discussion in 'VIC' at netrider.net.au started by G2teg, Jun 23, 2008.

  1. Hey all

    This week we will be working on a port80's bike. We will be replacing front and rear brake pads, redoing the brake fluid (and getting rid of air bubbles), changing the oil and filter, changing spark plugs and something to do with the air cleaner ... will see about that last one on the day.

    Should be a fairly basic night, but good for people to learn a thing or two.

    Anyone wanting to come along, either to lend a hand, or just to watch, please send me a PM for the address (it's near Hoppers Crossing)

    *edit* for those that don't know ... spanner nights are held on wednesdays. Future posts will state this ... sorry *edit*

  2. I'm a good chance for this wed. I might bring down that wacky brake thing I was gonna road test.
  3. Wacky brake thing??

    Don't you like 'normal' brake things??
  4. Spill the beans Loz. Whatta ya got?
  5. Wacky brake thing can wait if there's other stuff on. It looks pretty stupid to me but since they sent it to me I feel honour bound to at least test it... tcbbrakesystems.com

    At least it won't take much time to fit... In theory....

    Do we need any tools for brake bleeding? Clear plastic hose, brake fluid and spanners is about it. Got those? Got something to take the oil filter off with?
  6. Loz ... as long as you can actually make it ... bring along you tools for brake bleeding ... make sure you keep them under your seat ... lol

    Also bring your wacky brake thing ... as we should have time to fit it.

    As for the oil filter ... not everyone's bike has it stuck behind all manner of other parts.
  7. I don't have any special tools for brake bleeding, I only have some brake fluid in case we decide to do a full flush.

    I have a large flat head screw driver that I use for taking off oil filters, however feel free to bring along a filter wrench as the screwdriver method can get a little messy.

    I will sit down with the Haynes tonight and look to see if I need any special tools.
  8. one man brake bleeder kit ($5) from stupid cheap auto saves time and mess... filter wrench ($3) also saves mess... a piston pusher (no matter how many times i hear or say that, it still sounds dirty) can make it easier as well :)
  9. Dammit, can't make it to this one :cry:
    Got a friend who's on tour and I'm seeing her Wed night gig :grin:

    I don't reckon those jobs will take too long. I wouldn't have minded bleeding the brakes and changing the pads. Done it plenty of times on a car, but wanna see if there's much dfrnce for a bike.

    Have fun! :cool: :cool:

    PS yeah, not sure about that wacky braking system, Loz... I'd have to try it out to be convinced (much like you I imagine). Going by the quote below, it must be pretty expensive too...probly about $200 - $300 I'd guess.

  10. What time do these things start? I was thinking of dropping in to one of these nites but dont have much chance until now..
  11. 7pm til around 10pm - but I think this one will be a fairly quick one, the minor service stuff isn't hard. If you haven't done it before we'll stick the spanners in your hands.
  12. I should be able to get there ok... For this one I just wanted to see how to bleed the brakes lines properly. I have changed my brakes about 1000k's ago and I did a minor service 3000km's ago :grin: .

    I was wanting to meet a few more people on here as well as learn a few things. I'll confirm 2mrw arvo if I can make it or not. Depends on how much work I have 2mrw arvo :) I usually finsh work around 6:30pm in oakleigh so if I jump on my bike at 6:30 I should get there around 7:15...
  13. I'd like to come down.

    Could someone please PM the address.

  14. Heads up to those coming tomorrow night. Due to road works on Tarneit Rd you won't be able to access my house from Tarneit Rd using Gleneagles Ave. As yet they haven't blocked off Knightbridge Drv, but they may - however I doubt they'll make that much progress in 24 hrs.

    PM me for my mobile # if you need.
  15. Bugger, can't make this one... however i priced some... 'different'... sized sprokets for my machine and may have to purchase and install at some spanner night :twisted:
  16. Count me out this week - Hoppers Crossing is tooooo far for me on a school night with the forecast 100kmh winds :)

    So sorry G2teg - if you had planned to get your broken gas heater out for repair Booga and I won't be in attendance (and anyway, our fixes only last one or two nights at best!) :shock:
  17. Whatcha doin' to the F4i? Shorter ratio drive for quicker acceleration?

    I started talking to you bout it at the last spanner night but caught up - when I upgrade in 10 months I am tossing up between the Triumph Daytona 600 and the CBR600F4i...maybe I'll have to have that chat at next spanner night we're both at :grin:

    If you do the sprockets on a spanner night I'll try to come along :)


    Edit:Just after re-reading your post the only other thing you might be getting at with the "'different' sized sprockets" reference and the " :twisted: " is maybe a mammoth rear sprocket for stunting... :cool: maybe. maybe not.
  18. F4i ... don't these bikes 'require' a 60 tooth rear??
  19. I've finally finished doing overtime on Wednesdays so I should be able to make it tonight.
    Could someone please PM me the address.

    Also, can someone please tell me what sort of fork oil I should use for a suzuki 250 accross, I am 160kgs. I'm hoping someone might be able to help me change it in the next few weeks if we get time.
  20. After my extensive experience (having changed the oil once :LOL: ) I can recommend 15W min but probly 20W if you are 160Kg. My bike's standard was 5W and I upped it to 15W and it's heaps better. (Bike = 120K dry, Me=80K dry)

    You may also want to stiffen up the preload. Since I doubt they are adjustable, the old 20c coins under the fork cap trick might be the way to go (I think they'll set you back roughly 20c each :LOL:) to limit the amount of suspension travel movement when you sit on it. If you wanted to do that part properly, it'd be worth measuring the length of suspension sag when you sit on the bike compared with when all the weight is off the front wheel. I think when you sit on the bike, it is meant to dropdown about 1/4 to 1/3 of the total suspension travel available, so use that as a guide.

    Would you guys agree?