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Spada transmission troubles = a fun time for all

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by dialagranny, Aug 9, 2010.

  1. Hey guys,

    I've bitten the bullet, and after a couple of years of lustful wishing I've gone out and bought a 2nd hand bike, either to learn on or to polish up and onsell. It's a green Spada, and while I'm negotiating rego, I've been trying to clean her up and get her in good shape.

    One of the minor repairs I've made today was to replace the clutch lever, which had been snapped off half way down by the previous owner. God knows how that happened - the rest of the LHS is fine. Anyway I have discovered:

    a) The 10mm hex nut that should hold the screw in place (in turn holding the clutch lever on the handlebars) is missing. It's after closing time for the hardware store, but is it safe to assume they'd have suitable nuts, or am I going to need a specialist?

    b) Since fitting the new clutch lever and setting the tension at what I feel is about right the bike won't shift into 1st without stalling - this is with the clutch wholly in* and the kickstand up. However if I give the throttle a touch, it will shift.

    c) Related, even in neutral, the bike doesn't seem to want to idle all the time (~1000rpm).

    Have I messed up the fine balance by screwing around with the clutch lever? Is there a reasonably easy way to tune the idling speed? Is that even neccessary?

    Thanks for your time - sorry about the length (well, at least of this post)

    *as stated before - total n00b
  2. It sounds like you may have too much play at the clutch lever which is stopping the clutch from completely disengaging, try adjusting the cable tension.

    For the idle 1000 rpm is too low; it should be between 1300 and 1500. There is a nob on the carbs on the left side of the bike which you use to adjust the idle.
  3. Your 10 mm hex nut will be a nut you take off with a 10 mm spanner but is a fine pitch metric of, I think, 6mm. Very common in Jap cars and bikes but not something that you find in hardware stores. A wrecker will have loads kicking around.
    There is also clutch cable adjustment at the other end near the clutch and it is a matter of balancing the two ends to make sure you are getting the proper travel. I agree with the previous post, your problem is likely to be solved by just getting the tension right. Put the bike in gear without the engine on and play around with the adjustment so you can move it forward with the lever in and then feel that it takes up as you let it out and so you then can't push the bike easily.
  4. Cheers guys,

    To top it all off the battery was near flat, but a good charge later it's going acebombs again. I suspect the clutch cable needs to be played with at the engine end, and I've spotted a couple of nuts (12 and 14mm maybe?) that might be the adjustment I'm looking for.

    As for the idle speed, I adjusted the rather obvious idle control knob (screw holding the throttle at a minimum - high tech!) and now with no choke it idles around 1300 again, although I suspect when the engine warms up this might increase - either way I know how to regulate it now.