Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Spada Help needed please

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by WillywareCPS, Aug 14, 2005.

  1. Hello all, I am in need of some help, my Honda spada has seemed to have developed a slight problem.

    I’m new to bikes so try and bare with me, ill try and explain it the best I can.

    About a week ago my bike seemed to loose power. Previously when traveling at about 70kmh I would be in 3rd - 4th gear, but the other week I noticed it was revving higher than normal, quick gear changes and was in 6th (final gear) going 70kmh. could not go any faster cause it was revving way too high and I fear it might blow the engine.



    I don’t think this is normal.

    Any help or suggestions will be very appreciative.


    Thanks

    Dave
    WillywareCPS
     
     Top
  2. Err... only thing I could think of is slipping clutch, like a car. Checked your clutch lever is setup ok?
     
     Top
  3. Yeah, if you are going the same speed, in the same gear, but it is revving harder then the clutch must be slipping.

    If it's a cable clutch then adjust it. there is a fine adjust on the handle bar lever and a courser one on the crankcase. Udjust the later first.

    If it hydraulic, there wil be a reseviour near the lever, then you cant adjust it and the clutch needs an overhaul. Sorry
     
     Top
  4. The Spada's clutch is a cable type so this advice is the first thing you should check. If the cable adjustment doesn't work then you need to put your hand up for as much overtime as you can manage.
     
     Top
  5. if i got this right, the clutch cable adjustment is a two peice screw (main adjustment & locking nut) at the base of the clutch leaver. if this is what your talking about then it is fine. i tried that and its it seems to work

    i havent tried the one on the crankcase, ill try that one now and get back,

    thanks to every one for helping.
     
     Top
  6. There is nothing "wrong" with the adjuster, it just needs adjusting. The cable needs to be a little loose in it's seat. This should make the clutch take up point to somewhere within the lever travel.

    You only need to adjust the one on the crankcase (if it has one), when the one on the lever runs out of adjustment. In this case, it won't wind in any further.

    If this doesn't work, then there is something else wrong.

    What oil did you put in last time?
     
     Top
  7. The adjustment on the leaver is at its limit, i have tried to adjust the one on the crankcase but failed that, (its in tight area), the last oil change was about 2 months ago, i used castrol magnatec 10w-40

    its starting to look like she has to go in for a service. :(
     
     Top
  8. OK, the run-out on the lever suggests the crankcase needs to be adjusted. Yeah I don't think I've ever seen one that is easy to access.

    Despite that I don't think I would run that oil in a bike.

    Castrol oils are mineral oils and if they are for a car then they would have friction modifiers in them. If I'm wrong about this oil, then someone let me know. Castrol don't list it in their bike oil section.

    Because your clutch runs in your engine oil on a bike, friction modifiers make it slip.

    I'm not sure what you do if this is the case. Dropping the oil and putting a fully synthetic in may fix it, but you may have permanently damages the friction plates in the clutch, by putting a glazzing on them. In which case they need to be replaced

    But I could be wrong about the oil and it could be just the adjuster.
     
     Top
  9. I'm with ibast on this, cars run dry clutches, bikes run wet clutches, the oil you use lubricates both the bearings and the clutch. I suspect you're up for a clutch rebuild.
     
     Top
  10. Ummm... silly question but when you say limit - do you mean thread all the way in or all the way out? If your clutch is slipping you need to thread the adjuster IN to relieve cable tension.
     
     Top
  11. I am with ibast on this. Magnatec oils contain what we (my company) refer to as a tac (for tackiness) additive. These additives coat engine parts so that some lubricant is always (in theory) present even after sitting idle. These additives are fine in larger engines but may cause some problems in smaller engines. I certainly wouldn't recommend them anywhere near the clutch.

    However, I could be wrong. After all, some people swear by ROIL for bikes and it does much the same thing as Magnatec.

    If you need a clutch rebuild, keep up that overtime I was referring to.
     
     Top
  12. And I think you’re all right...

    I was just having a look at the spada service manual and it states that slippage of the clutch can be caused by the following things

    1: No clutch leaver free play
    2: Worn clutch discs
    3: Week clutch springs
    4: additive in engine oil

    So just to run it through ill try and drain the engine oil, change the oil filter, and replace with the right oil. And try it out.

    If the same thing then im basically screwed, I will need a clutch rebuild which by the sounds of it is very expensive

    Will a second Spada Engine with a good clutch help, could I just swap them over? When I purchased the bike I received a 2nd motor for spares...

    Thanks all again

    Dave
     
     Top
  13. If you can make the trek out to Artarmon, give Lloyd Penn a buzz.

    Lloyd Penn
    34 Punch St Artarmon
    9906 8488

    https://netrider.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?p=124770#124770

    He'll take a look at it in most cases for free and give you an accurate quote as to repairs.

    I'm not the most mechanically minded person in the world, so can't comment on any of your troubles.
     
     Top