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Some more bleedin help please!

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by Pommy, Feb 16, 2008.

  1. Ok, I searched the forum to find how to properly bleed the brakes - found it no problem.

    I get some DOT3 as the bike requires, some clear tube and a spanner.

    I have no less than SIX bleed nipples on the front?

    As shown by the black arrows:

    ... can anyone tell me first off - what they all are?

    And secondly, which ones, if not all do I bleed?

    Finally, I tried the back brake also (just the one nipple!) and with the lid off and the nipple open - pumping the brake did nothing? (unlike the fromt which pumped the fluid out of the reservoir)

    So peeps - can you help me with this one?

    Thanks in advance,

  2. The one in the front of the forks is for the so-called anti-dive brakes. I think it uses the oil out of the forks, and is not part of the braking system at all......
  3. Cheers Hornet - but if you look again you will see that the brake pipe from the said nipple leads to the same place as the other two?

    Any ideas what the other one is for also?

    Confused :shock:

  4. That's some crazy shit going on right there....
  5. Well thank god it's not just me being new to this!

    This is the last thing I need to do before its roadworthy on Monday at 08.30 - which has only been possible due to the help from this forum.

    I just hope I can get this sorted before then :)

  6. If my bike had that setup I would love my mechanic. :LOL:
  7. The anti-dive is activated by the brake pressure and increases the compression damping. Therefore it uses brake fluid to operate a valve in the forks which restricts the fork fluid movement.

    Bleed the furthest nipples first = the anti-dive one.


    Trevor G
  8. Thanks, Trevor, it really IS too long ago that that technology was around. And it never worked properly anyway (that's not a criticism of your bike, Pommy, just a generla comment :wink:).
  9. So from the picture, the farthest right (Anti-Dive), then the one on the caliper, then the top left one?

    Need to do it right!

    Cheers for the help mate.

    Also, before I go out to the garage again, what about the back? I loosen the nipple and opened the reservoir but no amount of pumping drains the reservoir?... I took the nipple off to see if blocked and it's not.

  10. Are you using a pressure bleeder of some sort, or just using gravity? Bike lines tend to have lots of kinks and bends, and rarely bleed well without some pressure at the master cylinder end..
  11. I am using nothing but a pipe, a spanner and my foot.

    There are no kinks at all in the pipe and the caliper isn't seized as I just fitted pads a couple of days ago and the brakes are working?

    Here is the rea brake set-up, you can see the res has a simple pipe straight down>>

    Straight pipe to caliper>>>
  12. You are not trying to drain the reservoir, but get brake fluid out of the bleed nipple.

    If no fluid comes out of the nipple, even after you remove it and press the brake, guess what:

    Yup, the bleeder is blocked.

    Otherwise, it's not the bleeder.

    Or it's a cable operated brake. ;-)

    All the best

    Trevor G

    PS Nice pics, BTW. :)
  13. Thanks for the updated info..

    Just finished it.

    I found that each nipple had to be drilled out both down and across as they were fully rusted up.

    Probably not a good sign but it worked.

    I now have another problem arising from this - the bike won't move!

    The rear brake seems be jammed on, i'm hoping I can "drive through" it tomorrow.

    The foot pedal is a million times firmer than before I bled them so it probably is the new pads/disc?

    The front brake seems no different though, it squeezes quite far back to the grips...

    :?: :?: :?:

  14. Interesting set up there. I assume your just replacing the fluid. I would do the anti dive first (far right) then the top one which looks simply like a second nipple for the antidive system until you drain all old fluid and if you dont get air out of these nipples then you know none should enter the system from above there(if the reservoir is kept full). The move to the caliper as that should only have old fluid in that bottom section and if no air flowed out the antidive system then none should enter the caliper section from that junction.

    I am not entirely sure how that system is plumbed so it may be a bit off but that would be my recommendation.

    As for the rear when you actually go to replace the fluid...do not pump the brake with the bleed nipple open or off as when you release the brake it draws air back into the lines. Close nipple...pump break a few times...release nipple and fluid should exit (or just air if its really bad).
  15. I put the clear pipe on, opened the nipple, opened the reservior, pumped the pedal until the res was almost empty and then topped it up.

    I done this until the new fluid was running through and then held the foot pedal down and tightned the nipple, topped up the res and popped the lid back on?

    I can't see how air can be drawn in if you have the pipe on as you can see the fluid draw back in?

    Have I done it wrong?

  16. Did you open up the calipers (force them apart) as far as they would go before adding the new pads?

    It's possible that the pedal is not returning far enough (through mis-adjustment) to allow the excess fluid to drain back into the master cylinder. Check it carefully - don't ride it like that - it will only get worse.


    Trevor G
  17. Yep I sure did.

    I had trouble getting the pads in as the disc was new too and it didn't give me much room until someone told me to push the caliper back to make room.

    After drilling out the nipple, the fluid just pumped and pumped straight through as I topped the reservoir - it felt ok?

    It wouldn't go backwards (off the stand and backing out of my garage) - but went forwards easier, so I rode it down the drive and it was ok, but only just moves backwards still.

    The brake action in forward works fine and the pedal feels a lot better?


  18. I think I may know what's wrong here. If you've had the back wheel off altogether, you should have seen a locating tab on the brake caliper bracket, and a corresponding slot in the swing-arm for it to slide into. If you haven't slid it into that slot, then the caliper may be trying to rotate around with the wheel, and locking it when the wheel is being turned backwards. Does that make sense, anyone :?
  19. Hornet, flick back a page and see if you can tell on my pic I posted..?


  20. Nope, I guessed wrong, on your bike that function is carried out by that long torque arm just behine the brake line banjo.

    OK, back to the drawing board; is it possible that your new brake pads are not seated properly and jamming in reverse (wedging the disc between them instead of even pressure over the whole surface??) Did you take the master cylinder cap off when you forced the caliper open to slide the disc in between the pads? If you didn't and forced the caliper over the disc, you may have have disloged the pads from their proper place on the piston......