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Solid riding tips (Long)

Discussion in 'General Motorcycling Discussion' started by Scrambles, Sep 18, 2006.

  1. Yeah yeah, I know: "Why should we listen to a guy who drfited a corner, lowsided then tried to climb a tree with his VTR??" Well, don't listen to me, listen to the authors of Fast Bikes (Best mag EVER). I came across these tips and thought I should share them.
    BTW, I also mono-ed my VTR on the same day, but you don't hear about THAT do you??

    Stability is the key to a good handling bike and being a confident, controlled rider. There are several different stages of stability:
    1.You're stable on the bike and the bike is stable underneath you
    2.You're stable on the bike but the bike is unstable
    3.You're unstabe on the bike and the bike is stable
    4.Both you and the bike are unstable
    This can be so much of a problem that you could find yourself into a hedge at a blink of an eye. If the bike is unstable but you are stable, the bike will regain its composure very quickly. Why? Because you let it.
    A headshake or tankslapper is the worst you can get, but the easiest way to gat out of it is to relax and let the bike do what it needs to do underneath you. However, to relax the upper body, the lower body needs to be locked into the bike. This applies to ALL types of bikes. If the lower body isn't locked in then you'll be hanging on to the handlebars too tightly and you will tire very quickly over the course of the ride.
    No amount of setup, dampening or re-valving will cure these handling problems. If any part of your body is tired after a spirited ride, it should be your legs and knees. If you forearms, neck or back are giving you curry, you are far too tense on the bike.
    Squeeze the tank with your legs, and you can relax your upper body. When hanging off the bike around a corner learn to lock you leg into that indentation on the tank, this may mean you have to also re-assess how you seat your feet on the pegs, but do what you have to do to get that lower body stable, locked and loaded.

  2. Yeah scrambles tried to race with me on mine and laurie on his and dave on his R6, and a small mono off the lights occured.

    It was one of those ones that catches you off guard and 2 drops of pee comes out.

    I have that on my old zxr, they are fun.

    but the stack was way funnier to watch.

    Bearing in mind i did wait to see if campbell was alright before i found it humerous.
  3. Cornering

    Running wide in a corner has to be one of the most attention-grabbing and common riding errors we make, have made and will continue to make unless we understand one of the reasons it can happen.
    For most corners we need to seperate the turning action from the throttle action. Your bike is only designed to do one or the other, not both. Sports bike are better equiped to cope with both but if you want your bike to get where you point it you need to split the actions.
    The throttle is designed to make the bike go forward, the handlebars to make the bike turn. Combine the two and you have a bike that wants to turn and also go straight. It is these conflicts that causes the bike to run wide at the beginning, apex and exit from the corner.
    The answer lies in how well you have read the corner, how soon you committed to it, and how sure you are of where the apex of your line will be. If you know exactly where you want to point the bike then the chances of throttleing and turning are greatly reduced.
    To make sure we can follow the line we have set we need to allow the bike to get pointed in the right direction before we apply the throttle. Approach the corner, then look to where your apex will be, then turn the bike to head on the arc. Once all that steering is complete you can apply the throttle. This will help the bike to get to that spot and also balance the bike so it can track that line.
  4. I'll have you know it was more like 3 drops of pee. Now I thank you to stop bringing my weiner into this...