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So, time to buy a trailer ...

Discussion in 'General Motorcycling Discussion' started by duncan_bayne, Jan 13, 2014.

  1. I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 Cagiva Mito track bike (formerly my road bike since new), soon to be stripped of lights, number plate, indicators, pillion seat, etc. etc.

    Next step: buying a trailer. Could those who have been there, done that, please share some wisdom?

    I'm hoping to spend as little money as possible (baby #2 on the way, due late February) but want something that can transfer a track bike, tools and preferably a nice large jerry can of petrol and a few litres of two-stroke oil.

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated ... where to find trailers for sale, what to look for, what to avoid ...

  2. Had a specific bike trailer and hated it.I now have a 4ft x 7ft galvanised box trailer.
    If you keep it in the weather go gal,anything else will not last. Genny wheels are a good idea as well,detachable 3 wheel to move it around.Get locks and park it out of sight,they get stolen a lot as well.It has jerry can mounts and lots of hook points.Anything good sells 2nd hand seriously fast.Good luck and good hunting
    Dont tell your mates,mine gets borrowed a lot
    • Agree Agree x 2
  3. Zim's on the money in every way: 7x4 means you can load the bike straight on, not angled across.
    And go to Repco or Supercheap and buy a folding aluminium ramp, and some ratchet straps.
  4. Thanks for the tips. I'll go hunting on the usuals (eBay, Gumtree) ... any other suggestions for where sellers may lurk?

    Ta. I was wondering about how to get it up there ... although being a Mito I could probably just lift it one end at a time ;)

    Now to twiddle my thumbs until some invoices get paid ...
  5. I ended up buying a 7x4 box trailer for the simple reason I could put anything in it as opposed to a dedicated bike trailer which costs the same or more.

    I looked at used and ended up just getting anew one for about $700.

    you could bolt a tool box to the draw bar, or just put it in the boot of your car.

    For the ramp i got a folding aluminium ramp but i modified it slightly I drilled to holes in the flange at the end and matching holes in the trailer, and i use a couple of steel pins to secure it when loading and unloading the bikes
  6. Agree with Zim, a standard box trailer has so many more uses.
    I use a 6x4 to which I have mounted some exhaust 'u' clamps at strategic positions for the tie downs and made a simple guide arrangement to hold the front wheels in place. As a bonus, being a 6x4 means that in Victoria they don't have to be separately registered..

    If you want to do it 'fancy' , Kaneg have a trailer mate and ramp combo..
    I fit the 10r on straight with the tailgate held up at about 45degrees with occy straps, so a 125 should fit even easier.
  7. No idea if they are good or bad etc, but I noticed repco had ramps on special. Sale ends Wed, 15 Jan. 2014 though.
  8. Ahah, now *that* is good to know. This whole exercise is about keeping costs down; rather than keeping the Mito registered and insured (third party) to ride to the track several times a year, I can buy a general purpose trailer and de-register the Mito.

    Of course I'll probably wind up spending more than the difference on go-faster bits or a litre track bike, but that's the plan anyhow ;)
  9. So is this the sort of thing folks are talking about?

  10. Close, thats the more expensive gavanised variety. The budget models are painted and approx$500-600 new.

    .....ebay and gumtree if you like the colour 'rust', and cheaper is better


    BTW...most bike trailers have 2 major faults
    1. No floor, so when your trying to load the bike you need to be very careful.
    2. Usually the channels are only wide enough for skinny chook chaser tyres, not the 180-200mm tyres you find on todays' supersport 600's and thou's
  11. Standard trailer, ramp, and wheel chock

    Attached Files:

  12. Bike specific doesn’t mean it has no floor and channels, that’s just how the cheapo ones are done. I bought a trailer and spent 1K on making it nice for 2 bikes, and although it gets used 2-3 times a year for other things, I wish it were a box. But box with 2 bikes is tough. Box with 1 bike is easy. All you need is a box trailer, something to keep the front wheel vertical, and straps.

    Make sure it’s long enough to accommodate your wheelbase comfortably – a 6ft trailer will be tight, don’t think you’ll have room for a trailermate, 10-15cm standoff +30cm tyre radius+137.5 mito wheelbase = 178-182cm. And some bike hanging out the back.

    You do not need or want ratchet straps, promise you, tie down straps can bottom forks out sufficiently if that’s your thing. The cheapo canyon dancer straps will destroy your grips and throttle tube in a few journeys time, there are alternatives but I’ve forgotten the name, they sit more like cups on the handlebar ends. From memory the trailer mate has 3 mounting points. With a spanner and an impact driver with the right socket you can install/uninstall the whole thing in under a minute. Or bang on some pieces of vert timber with sufficient depth (i.e. just deeper than the curvature of the tyre) for a cheapo solution. For the rear wheel all you are trying to do is keep it from bouncing vertically off the deck.

    A tie down strap from one side to the other, just forward of the rear axlenice and LOW, looped around the tyre and back to the other side, with some minor amount of tension, is more than enough to do the job. Put it up high and the tyre rotates = no tension and no use. Down low and there’s no probs. Those tyredown metal things are a crock of sh1t and don’t address the issue of a bike on the back, IMO don’t waste your money.
  13. The long side pipe tie down mounts can be a problem.Its more square with fixed points,no sliding of the tie down.Bikes with fairings are also a problem.Its hard to get a tie down angle that does not damage the fairing.Mine is fine but it took some figuring at first.If your trailer is long enough as said above those front wheel chocks are fast secure and nothing gets damaged.I would have gone that way on second thought as long as you can bolt and unbolt them from the floor easily.Makes using the trailer for other stuff easier.As also said above don't go nuts strapping them down.Blowing fork seals are not fun.After a while you get your system down pat. I would use the chock and a couple of front tie downs,carabinna style that don't flip off easy.Hasn't happened to me but loosing a bike or even dropping it while loading would not be fun.There is a vid of blokes in th USA loading bikes into really high F250 type trucks,its a crash fest and bloody funny.Last thing,don't ride your bike into the trailer while there is a camera around.
  14. In Sydney we got a dedicated 3 bike trailer, tapered runners at the rear, 2x gas holders, ramp, plenty of welded tie downs, jockey and lighting road registered for $1250. We cut some 17mm ply around the arches and front wheel supports to make a flatbed which doubles up as tyre bead breaker base. I've even moved house using the trailer as main transport method. Definitely hedge your bets and try not to limit the trailer to a single purpose I'd say.