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So I installed my new mosfet RR today.

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by Azamakumar, Sep 8, 2011.

  1. Background reading - tl;dr: Hyo (lol) GT250R would cut out when I gave it some, plus battery wasn't charging properly.

    So did a bit of research for plug and play RRs that would fit and got nothing of interest. Thought I'd take the easy way out and go for a GT650R RR but found out you'd still need to play a bit with some of the wires for it to go in. Then I stumbled across the FH012AA, used on late model R1s. A fair few people had replaced oem with these on triumphs and aprilias with great results so I figured I may as well have a crack.

    I got one of these bad boys, shipped in 5 days. Figured I'd take a day off today and whack it + the tail tidy on.

    Spent last night taking off fairings and figuring out where they hid the damn thing. Pulled the loom apart ready for some crimping in the morning. That's the new one in the middle, and the old one on the right.


    Ended up making 2 trips each to bunnings and jaycar, realising that I'd no idea where to mount it and I didn't have enough wiring or a crimper. Rather than use the stock wiring, I wired it directly to the battery. Comes with a 30a fuse and inline holder to make life a bit easier. I ended up putting it in the same spot as the old one. It does poke through the fairings a bit so I'm going to have to get a bit of perspex or something to save it from chain fling/rain but aside from that it sits great (it's the thing right on top of the shock)


    Took it for a WOT spin around the block just then, from cold. Started it for the first time today - fired up on the first crank and happily revved at ~1200rpm without stuttering (usually don't get it started that quick or idling that well). Felt like a different bike - no more lumpy bottom end, just revs happily all the way to the red. Took the seat off when I got home. This is at idle:


    loaded with lights/indicators. Anything above 3k it sits bang on 14.58v. Feels like a proper bike now.....sort of.
  2. Great pics and nice work - sounds like you've fixed it.
  3. Not quite, the tacho still bounces around when I switch the HIDs on - going to have to inspect all wiring for that when I have the time.
  4. It could be possible the HID is simply trying to draw more current than the stator can handle.
  5. doubt it - was fine for maybe a year then started playing up recently.

    also (almost certainly incorrect knowledge here), don't HIDs draw less power? I mean there's the inverter and all, but they wouldn't pull more power all out right?

    EDIT: oh god unless my stator's cactus :(
  6. There's quite a current surge when the igniter starts then it settles down to the 30-50 watts it normally uses.

    More likely, when it ignites, the inverter gets very 'noisy' in terms of EMF. Igniters on HID lamps run at between 20 and 30kV. As your tacho is electronic and probably relies on either a hall effect sensor or a signal from the ECU that signal gets interfered with by the radiation from the inverter unit.

    I would make sure that you aren't running the wires that power the HID ballast, or the wires from the ballast to the lamp anywhere close to or parallel to the wiring that supplies power to your ECU or carries signals from the ECU to the instrument cluster. This could prove difficult as you don't have acres of internal space to run wires like a car would.

    You could experiment with shielded or twisted pair cables but if it's a temporary problem I would just put up with it.
  7. You could just wrap the wires in aluminium foil.
  8. It doesn't just happen then, though. I mean it is one time it happens but it also happens when I put more load on, like using my indicators.
  9. In that case I'd start poking around with an oscilloscope to figure out what's going on. When you put your indicators on, theres another 40 watts of power being consumed.

    You could also try an inline filter (if you can find a 40-50A one) or a bigarse capacitor across the power supply and close to the ballast.
  10. change your blinkers to LEDs and install an LED flasher unit?
  11. I always go for the most complicated solution. :angel:
  12. you'd be putting silly diodes in to make it work with the load based unit then
  13. Actually reading up on this stuff it could be interference. Might buy a cheapo bulb to throw back in and test to see.
  14. Haven't fixed it :(
  15. Hey Az,
    Random thought while I was in the shower (that's where I do my best thinking).

    Get some clip on ferrites and put them before and after the HID ballast or whatever else you think is interfering.

    Something like these: Jaycar

    They come in a few sizes so just but ones that will fit on your cabling. I wouldn't trust the clips on a bike so you'd probably want to put a zippy tie around the ferrite to stop it coming open and falling off.
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