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Snapped easy out - oh nos

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by raging, Nov 1, 2013.

  1. So I know what I did wrong to end up here, but that doesn't help my current issue. uncool

    I have a broken bolt with a snapped embedded easy out. Whats next, how do get it out. My google fu suggested either
    - drilling with a cobalt drill bit
    - hitting it with a punch to shatter the easy out.

    Pic attached pre easy out snap. The easy out snapped below the bolt (i.e. it's not sticking out)

    Can anyone offer some guidance ?


    • Like Like x 1
  2. You need a nut and a welder.

    Weld the nut to the easy out and screw it out (the "wrong" way).

    Then drill the hole in bolt bigger and start again.
    • Agree Agree x 2
  3. You won't be able to weld anything to it if it broke inside the bolt. So how did this evolve ? did the head break of the bolt to start with, what does it retain ,i.e. can you create another mounting point above or below it ?
  4. Thanks. The issue is the easy out is inset of the bolt, so nothing to wield onto.

  5. Yep, I screwed up, i broke the bolt head off. Went to the shop, acquired new bolt and easy out (their suggestion). A few lessons learnt here.

    It holds the airbox onto the frame, not really any alternatives, apart from zip ties :-|
  6. There looks to be a fair bit of meat above that bolt. Perhaps you could drill and tap a hole above it and extend the bracket on the air box. Another option if possible is ti drill a series of small holes in the bolt around the easy out and then try and dig it out.
  7. It appears as though there is some "meat" of the bolt protruding above the face of the alloy housing. Is that correct or a visual trick?
  8. Pretty much this, but I'd be trying to attach to both bolt and easy-out so as to screw them both out as a unit (anti-clock).

    But then, I won't touch easy-outs with a barge-pole in the first place.
  9. The bolt is probably stainless Pat, and the ezy out is tool steel. Would be nigh on impossible to get a weld of any strength to take to both, then you have the risk of melting the surrounding alloy.

    Back in the marine industry days, we figured ezy outs only worked if the bolt was easy to get out.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  10. Anyway, since you're probably not on tonight, and I won't be here tomorrow...

    If there is any bolt protruding, get a decent file and file a small flat on two sides. Remove all the thread material, so you have some decent bulk to clamp to. Buy yourself some vise grips. Good ones. Irwin or similar. Needle nose will probably be bet for this job. And a propane gas torch. You need to heat the alloy - the propane doesn't burn hot enough to melt the alloy (DON'T use oxy or the alloy will go white, then become a shiny puddle on the floor). Once you've used a little heat, nice solid fixing with the vise grips. Get them tight. Then wriggle. Back and forth. You can loosen a bolt by tightening it first, remember that.
  11. If all else fails then drill the sucker out to a larger diameter then tap it and get a bigger bolt to attach the airbox with :)
    • Agree Agree x 1
  12. Tool steel is pretty tough stuff to drill MitchnZara.
  13. It is, But if you don't have a welder, nor any other 'specialty' tools it can been a hell of a lot easier. :) And I was saying it as a last resort.
  14. buy a new bike
  15. I agree with the method Tas man put forward, heating the surrounding area will expand the metal and help crack the thread.

    Failing that you could run a hack saw blade around the exposed bolt then screw it off the ezy out, it may expose enough of the ezy out to get a grip on it and get it out, then you could drill the bolt out and retap it or put in a helicoil thread repair kit in.
  16. did you strip the head when tightening or untightening? It's not a large bolt so I'm assuming you overtightened it rather than it's seized up? You could try cutting a slot in the exposed bolt head, spray liberally with easing oil, leave to penetrate and use a big screwdriver to remove. The heat would work better, but if you don't want to try that with all the plastic around it, this might work.
  17. Thanks for the info guys. This was the first and last time of using an easy out.

    The head came off when I was untightening. I think it's the first time this bolt has come out since the factory. The bike is 2 years old and the previous services haven't had a need to get under the air box.

    Not much meat left on the bolt, maybe 1 - 2 mm.
  18. +1 for creating a slot for a screw driver and using heaps of wd40.
  19. I did the same thing, called a guy named the thread doctor and an hour later he got it all out (and told me never to use ezy outs again).
    • Informative Informative x 1
  20. Easyouts are ok if you use the right brand, drill the hole in the centre, parallel and as large as possible. IMO Proto make the best easyouts.
    Its hard for to tell from your picture but it looks like a small easyout? Can you punch it further into the drilled hole using a centre punch? or can you try to rotate the easyout out using a small chisel? it won't need to move far before it releases its grip and this might break it up.
    Finally try using a hardened lefthand drillbit, hopefully it will screw the broken bolt out as it drills.
    • Agree Agree x 1