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Small Performance Tyres - TT900GPs?

Discussion in 'Riding Gear and Bike Accessories/Parts' at netrider.net.au started by Morbo28, Apr 8, 2008.

  1. Hey guys, I was wondering if you could help me. I am looking to replace the tyres on my NSR150SP. The ones one here have done around 13000Ks and I think they are original, the don't seem very confidence-inspiring when leaned over or in the wet. The rear is Bridgestone Exedra and I am not sure what the front is. (IRC or something?)

    The sizes are Front - 90/80 17 and Rear 120/80 17 or 130/80 17

    I am finding it hard to get a GOOD performance tyre - Pilots etc do not make them small enough. I commute to work but on weekends go for good decent rides where I enjoy nice leaning in the twisties. I also figure something fairly soft is an option as I don't have a hugely powerful/big bike, so wear rates will be reasonable.

    Today I stumbled across the Dunlop TT900GP:


    Adrian from MotoHeaven is checking them out for me - prices etc.
    Have you ever used these / what do you think?

    Coz the only other options I can see are Battleaxe BT45s or Arrowmaxes and I have got the impression they aren't too great at all. Is there another good tyre choice I have overlooked?

    Any thoughts appreciated!

  2. Also, the rim widths are 2.5 front and 3.0 rear.

    Looking at specs on tyre websites they recommend that some of their wider tyres are good on these size rims.

    eg for the front wheel:
    and for the rear:
    So 'Avon' suggest that I could even go up to a 110/80-17 front and 140/80-17 rear (instead of the stock 90/80-17 and 120/80-17).

    This would really increase my tyre choices. Is there some reason that I shouldn't expand my choices to include this larger width?
  3. My mechanic says the IRC is the only properly fitting tyre for us. I've never seen an NSR with anything else, so I'm guessing they're the best option until we can get a bike with decent sized wheels. Keep this updated though, my rear is bald and both tyres are cracked, so I'm looking for new rubber.
  4. Hi Davo,

    Well all the things I read and have been told about I.R.C. are that they are C.R.A.P. :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: This certainly fits with my experience of them. Really plasticy, twitchy through corners and no confidence in the wet.

    That said, the Bridgestone Exedra on the rear is probably slightly worse!

    You can actually feel how hard they are, but it's also fair to say that the tyres are also off and so heaps worse than new. The front would have been original equipment and the rear must have been there for a while.

    BUT - I ordered the Dunlop TT900GPs!!!!! They will be fitted the weekend after this weekend. The are pretty expensive compared to other tyres and they are also pretty sticky as they are made with the track in mind.

    So $395 fitted from MotoHeaven, I will put them on and see how long they last! I am hoping a while - I would be happy with 10,000k if they handle like they promise to. It's gunna be like a new bike!!!

    I'll let you know how they go and if it's worth considering them for yours too.

  5. My quote is $208 for the IRCs fitted, so the dunlops will have to be pretty good :p Are they a perfect fit or stretched? Keep us up to date ;)

    PS we just cracked a mechanic's copy of the nsr150sp service manual, you can get a copy on the maintenance forum ;)
  6. Heya Davo,

    Just came back form poker, introduced a friend to APL for the first time and he won the bloody tourny!...anyway...

    Yeah the Dunlops are defo expensive for our size bike. As I said they are partly a track tyre. I am just banking that although they will have amazing grip (which I'm sure they will compared to the IRCs), htat they will also last a decent amount due to our bike being light and having somewhat less power than a CBR600RR :LOL:

    Got the NSR150sp manual if it's the one I'm thinking of - the std service manual from the forum... http://raven.qsurf.org/raven/NSR150SP.zip ...wouldn't mind a proper WORKSHOP manual, though...this is just like std info on how to look after our bike, not like what torque settings to use, reed info etc...if there's another one, let us know....or I'll check out the forum anyhoo if you've got a new one there.

    I won't have the new tyres til Sat week, so maybe too late for you to make a decision, but lemme know how you go with yours if you get em sooner. I was quoted $295 for Battleaxes fitted which I am told are better than the IRCs, but was happy to go the extra $100 for even better grip, seeing as I commute but also love leaning it over occasionally!

    In terms of fit - yep, 90/80-17s and 120/80-17s, so perfect rim fit (unlike the other oversize options I was looking at in earlier posts - don't think the oversize ones would fit between the narrow front guard anyway, now I check...)

    Ah well, we'll keep each other updated!

    Now it's $208 vs $395 so as you say, they'd wanna be good!! :shock: :shock: :shock:
  7. Found your REAL workshop manual...NICE ONE!! thanx for the tip :twisted: :twisted:

    Had heard of this as being a major F up and can cause probs if don't follow..

  8. Yeah the owner's manual has the correct plug although I never had such a tank sticker... Also you will need a threaded head. My shop ordered the plugs in, they came in NGK boxes, right code B9ECS, but they didn't have the threaded head. The correct plug came in a red honda box.

    Old plug I pulled from the bike was a BR9ES. :? Also seen BP8ES being sold on ebay in a parts package.

    I just scratched up the car so my tyres will have to wait another month and I might end up just getting IRCs to save money... :cry:
  9. All you need to use the plug as it is now supplied is a new NGK spark plug cap for a plug with the top cap fitted. Costs about $15 from good bike shops, or maybe less from better ones.


    Trevor G

    PS In a pinch there should be no problem using a B9ES plug - the heat range is correct, it just lacks a "competition" ground electrode (ho hum) which is slightly narrower, and might have a U groove on the underside. None of that is really important, except the heatrange part..
  10. oh... I just fitted a new plug, it doesnt have a threaded top, and the cap doesnt fit entirely over the new plug, but I just left it like that. Will that cause problems?

    Will I need to buy that replacement cap you mentioned?
  11. Hi all,

    Firslty, yes I had the same issue, ordered some new plugs (4x), specified the Honda ones, not the NGK ones. They called me to say they were in and sure enough they were NGK with incorrect head. Specified again and they got the correct ones in in the red Honda box.

    Unfortunately the one I took out of the bike was the B-8ES one - so incorrect heat range used by last owner/servicer.

    When the first incorrect plugs came in I considered just replacing the 'coil' lead with a std connector lead to save the hassle but unformatley it is permanently attached to the coil and I didn't fancy messing around with it. (I guess you could either replace whole coil, or dissasemble it or just change end plug).

    Also tyres - had them fitted on Saturday. Have not had a chance to ride too far or hard. I have ridden about 100Ks commuting today and with a weekend blat up Beach road, and they are waaaayyyyy better than the ones I took off the bike. I still need to see how they go in the wet and when the bike is leaned right over, but I think they will be streets ahead in both areas. Glad I chose them. Will let you know after Friday - I am going to ride black spur with them on.
  12. In my case there was no way the lead would fit on the NGK plug at all, so there's no way it would start. So perhaps yours has been modified already to fith the NGK type, larger, non-threaded head, and all's good?

    Having said that, without seeing it it is hard to say whether what you have now is okay...maybe just get someone to have a squiz at it.
  13. Cool, I might end up getting these tyres too :p

    Don't think its been modified, it still has that little nut under the cap, but it just sits there. Im afraid one day I might hit a speed bump and the cap will pop off.

    Where did you order those Honda plugs from? Might be easier to just get the proper threaded plugs.
  14. Yeah better to be safe than sorry. I ordered mine through a Honda dealer here in Melbourne - (Peter Stevens). Any Honda motorcycle authorised dealer that carries spares will be able to sort you out...maybe Fraser Motorcycles near Strathfield if that's near you?

    You will need to specify the Honda part in the red box. (Part number 9807959812). When I got them the guy I spoke to understood, but I reckon when a different person was placing the order they probly thought 'Hang on, we've got NGK ones in stock, we'll just use those!'. Then they might also try to tell you the B-8ES is the correct one if you say it's for an NSR150, or they might say that there's no difrnce between the NGK and Honda besides the box! :blah: :blah: Just better off saying - I need this geniune Honda part, part number ### and please do not subsitute with NGK.

    I ordered 4 so I can wait a while before I have to deal with it again. Might change coil or lead plug before then so std NGK ones will fit!!!

    And at the moment can recommend the tyres I got as being fantastic, but keep in mind they are more expensive and I will wait to see how they go in wet and in twisties before I completely judge. Also dunno how quickly they'll wear.

    Gluck! Let us know how you get on.
  15. Vanny - talk to Phil at Beaconsfield Motorcycle Supermarket - he knows his stuff. He even knows better than the suppliers who twice sent the non-threaded head.

    376 Botany Rd
    Beaconsfield NSW 2015
    Phone: (02) 9318 0008
    Fax: (02) 9318 1115
    Email: BMSHonda@idx.com.au
  16. So how are the tyres Morbo? Dry and wet grip? Wear? Give us the low down. Got 2t compression lockup on my bald IRC in the wet today haha
  17. They're sweet as. Big fan. Muuuuch better than the IRCs. But then again any new tyre would be an improvement over those.

    I am getting further and further lean on them. For the first time recently I got them right on the edge of the tread (previously there was about almost a cm or so that I didn't normally ride on). Whereas the old tyres I was getting more and more nervous the more I tried to lean, these ones I gain more and more confidence as I lean over as I know I reach my limits before the tyres reach theirs, whereas before it didn;t feel ilke that was the case. It meant I could be confident to try to improve my techinque ie upper body and head position to lean over (still got a long way to go, it's what I'm working on at the moment). I took them through the hills of black spur and other roads around that area and they went well. Mostly commuting though.

    Also in the wet they perform a hell of a lot better. The plasticy old IRCs felt very skatey. These are much better. Yuu still know it's wet, but they are an improvement.

    Wear wise, it has only been six weeks (maybe 1500ks?), so they still look pretty new, but I think they are probably wearing quicker than the IRCs. But it seemed like the IRCs didn't wear at all!

    Basically I feel the best thing about these tyres is that the grip they provide means you can work on improving your technique. And that they feel safer in the wet. The IRCs are okay for dry commuting and last a long time. I'll let you know about the wear rates on these puppies after a few more 1000 ks.
  18. Hmm sounds pretty good. I wonder how it compares to a Battlax rear/IRC front combo
  19. I don't think having the less-grip IRC on the front is a great idea myself.
  20. As an update, I used these puppies on a track day yesterday at Broadford.

    It's coming from a newbie track persons perspective, but they performed really well. They instilled so much confidence in the corners. Being a smaller bike, I could carry way more corner speed into the corners than the bigger bikes, trail brake to the apex and get more power on through the corner. the instructors said the tyres had more to give, but it might take a few sessions for me to get to the the edge of their performance!

    The front started graining pretty badly, I was told maybe 1 or 2 psi in the front may improve this.

    I chose these sticky ones coz I figured they wouldn't wear too much on the road given the light/low power bike. But they probly wouldn't last too long on the track.

    And they are squared of quite a bit after suburban work and a 1000k tour I went on, though half of that was twisties.

    I would say it's a good commuter tyre in that it habdles wet roads and hazards very well, but yeah it does sqaure off and does not last nearly as long as the IRCs. Though I would never put IRCs on here...sure they showed no wear but offered NO grip. Something slightly less soft than this would be better for commuting IMHO. Also having said that, I would get the same, coz I like having that level of grip for the weekend rides, and I commute less on the bike at the moment.

    I am thinking of keeping this when I get my upgrade as a track bike. I will defo use these if I wanna keep it reg'd...or obviously use track tyres.

    Here's some pics of it. Partly for your info, but also just to show how much bloody fun I had on the day :LOL:

    The front tyre after a few sessions

    Rear tyre