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slipping clutch

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Azamakumar, May 30, 2011.

  1. So I have a slipping clutch. One shop's quoted me around $800 all up to get it done, which is a bit steep for me. Quick google says I can get a full set of driven + friction plates for around 120au, and the service manual says it's just a matter or popping the clutch cover off, opening the clutch basket and bobs your uncle.

    Is it a particularly difficult job or do I just pop out the old ones and chuck the new ones in?
  2. Shop might have included for intermediate plates and springs, not just friction plates.

    It's not quite as easy as pop it off and swap the plates, there's about half a day labour in there, and probably an oil and filter change and a gasket, so add all that up and you get up round that figure.

    The only special thing about it is holding the clutch basket still whilst undoing the nut. Some use a fabricated or special tool for it. You may be able to get it by having you mate put their foot on the brake pedal.

    I'd take my time and do it over a Saturday morning.
  3. Would definitely be springs as well. Usually throw them in at the same time.
    If you have a bit of mechanical nouse I would say do it. Even if you have the manual, I would be taking pics of how you pull it down and where it is before you do. Ya gotta luv the digital age. Makes life so much easier.
  4. I can change the driven and friction plates on my Ducati in about 20 minutes, if I don't want to clean anything while I'm in there.

    Add 20 minutes to clean the dust out properly. That is one of the benefits of having a dry clutch. I haven't needed to change springs or the basket in 42,000 Km, but then I am only on my second clutch pack anyway.

    Unfortunately a Ducati a clutch pack costs around $450. :eek:

    So, what is your bike?
    Does it have a dry clutch or wet?
    Does a reputable manufacturer make the AU$120 clutch pack you have found?

    BTW, if you ask in a forum specific to your bike, you may get better answers. I know from Ducati forums that I could extend the life of my friction plates using a little mix and match to set the clutch pack height correctly, for example.

    I also know that a slipping clutch can often be corrected by doing the same thing.

    Maybe you just need to inspect the plates and find out if you can fix the slippage without spending lots of money.

    But all that depends a lot on whether you have a wet or dry clutch.
  5. It's a hyo, parts were found by a bloke on a hyo forum that's done it before using those ones. I've bought a couple of bits from the supplier here and there and have no complaints so I've no issue with buying em. It's a wet clutch.

    And a 'lot of money' is a tough one. 100 to maybe 200 seems fine if I can get everything I need to keep it happy for a while, but I can't see myself forking out 800 for someone else to do it.
  6. Wet clutches are a bit harder. You will almost always have to drain the oil and replace it since the engine and clutch oil is common, which means a new sump plug as well.

    You might be able to find a description on the web somewhere for doing the work yourself. Or ask the bloke for a description of how he did it. Of course you will need tools unless you know someone who can help you out.

    You could try asking the shop how much just to fit the bits you buy, or get quotes from other workshops.

    Those are your choices I reckon.
  7. Oh, one other issue. Did you change the engine oil yourself at any time?

    If so, did you use oil with friction modifiers in it? If so, that is probably why your clutch is slipping. Bikes with wet clutches must use oil that does not have friction modifiers in it, since they will make the clutch slip!

    If you used cheap oil, that could also be he problem.
  8. why dont you just change the springs first and go from there. i put a set of stiffer springs in my clutch when it was slipping.

    $30 later my clutch was fixed.
  9. Probably because it is not a very good idea.

    If the clutch is slipping now, stiffer springs may make the clutch work better in the short term, but the clutch was designed for the springs in it. Putting stiffer springs in it may cause other problems.

    Now while the Hyosungs are cheap bikes, the Koreans do know how to make springs. In fact, everyone in the world just about knows how to make quality springs these days. Unless the clutch has already done a lot of work, being engaged and disengaged a lot, then the springs would be fine. In the bad old days springs wore out within the lifetime of a bike, but that should not be the case for quality bikes now, and even a relatively old Hyosung shouldn't need new springs for quite some time.

    If the springs are made of cheese, then replacing them with new units made for the bike may help. But springs aren't wear items. Clutch plates are. So it is far more likely that the clutch plates have worn than the springs are buggered.

    If non-standard stiffer springs are used to compensate for worn clutch plates, it will increase the force needed to pull the lever and disengage the clutch. Not ideal, because if the springs were made of cheese and already need to be replaced, then the thrust bearing is probably made of dough and won't be able to handle the extra force of the stiffer springs. Repairing a clutch after a thrust bearing failure is far more expensive than replacing a clutch pack correctly in the first place.

    Also, it is a combination of the spring length, the spring rate and the height (thickness) of the pack of clutch plates that makes a clutch pack work. Use springs that are too long and the clutch lever may get way too stiff. Too short and it wouldn't matter how stiff the springs were, they wouldn't put enough force on the clutch pack to engage the clutch.

    So the first thing to do is to find out what the problem is, not throw a "cheap" solution at it.

    If the bike is young and has been serviced on the cheap, use of the wrong oil is probably high on the list of possible problems.
  10. Not cheap oil, Rod. Noticed it about 300 odd kms ago, and was hoping with the oil change it'd be sorted. It wasn't, and they said it was probably slipping plates. Well aware of friction modifiers being gay for a bike.

    Either way, if I'm looking at dumping the oil I may as well leave it for a bit. It's not slipping that much, only at WOT near the top of 3rd. Wouldn't hurt to take it a bit easier
  11. Well McGregor and Boorman may work on bikes laying on their side to avoid changing or losing the oil, but it usually isn't a good idea.

    If you can find a service manual or instructions online you would know what is required, but I suspect draining the oil will be the first step.

    So, some gentle riding until you can afford the work to be done. Enjoy it anyway.