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Sick of my bike

Discussion in 'General Motorcycling Discussion' at netrider.net.au started by dane75, May 10, 2009.

  1. Have had my P's for about 6 months now and my Kawasaki ZXR250C for three months prior to that. In that time I have had it break down many times. Some have been simple - The speedo driver went so got it replaced, but had to get Cam chain and tensioner replaced recently, straight after that it had a fuel issue cutting out and had to replace the filter and had it back for a little while then the speedo cable snapped so I have replaced that. Now the fuel seems to be starving again. I have to ride 65 km's into work in the mornings and the last two times I ride it, it seems to loose power when you decelerate and at an intersection taking off it chugs along for a bit till the power picks up.

    I am at a stage with the bike now where I don't want to ride it cause it's so bloody unreliable but still have 6 months to wait till I can upgrade. I am going to advertise the bike for sale as it could take many months for it to sell up here in the country anyway. My only concern is if it sells quickly I then have a period of not riding to then jump on a bigger bike and be out of practice a bit of riding. My money situation will be too tight to buy another LAMS bike in the mean time and given I am 6" 120kg and have to ride 65km's one way to work on country roads I don't want to get another small bike as it is way too uncomfortable and to be honest a boring ride
  2. I know this is going to sound harsh, but what do you expect form a 15-16year old machine? (edit:: should of brought my glasses to work :S)

    Go get yourself a copy of the workshop manual and rebuild it. If, your going to need to spend the money to fix it, do it all. There maybe any number of things that any number of knowledged Netriders can point out to you to look at, and posting up in the tech/maint section will get your bike and yourself right as rain.

    Then you can play with the bike's performance stuff, other people here are more than willing to prop up advice in tweaks, and outright modifications to make to your bike. I would probably advise trying to sell it as in its current state you may not get a good price for it, or a buyer for that matter. If it conks out on a test ride or misbehaves then your not going to sell it. Not to mention having to concern yourself with making sure its RWC so you can get a price premium for it.

    If you do decide to sell it, then May I suggest a motard. I can think any number of roads up that way which would be fun(if dirt) on a motard.
  3. :WStupid:

    minus the 25-26yr remark, as it looks like 15-16yrs.

    I think this is the perfect time to tinker around and learn more about the way your bike works. :)
  4. hahaha oops, aye, looked like an *8 on this machine at work. lol, i'll take it back. But it's still getting into that fiddle with age.
  5. Old bikes need lots of repairs. Cam chain tensioners eventually wear out, fuel filters need changing and cables break if not lubricated. You could either enjoy the experience of learning to fix the easy stuff of buy a new honda :)

    Either option is a winner.
  6. lol, the only problem with the 9 looking like an eight is that 1993 would look like 1883. I'm suprised why you didn't question the fact that he has a 100+ year old bike :p

  7. the first one is clear, i'll put it down to the cheap monitor we have here.
  8. Get rid of it if you don't like.
    If you want to wait and buy your upgrade, do that. You can always take it easy for a while on the bigger bike if you're worried.
  9. I bought a 1988 CBR250R as my first bike, it had lots of problems and taught me so much about bikes. As the others have said, you're not going to get a good price with the bike in it's current condition, if you get a haynes book for your bike and start trying to fix it then you will learn so much.
  10. The problem with that stuff isn't that it doesn't work, it's that when someone uses it with a bike this age, it works only too well.
    All the gunk lining the tank, the fuel lines etc ends up instantly blocking the filter and the jets in the carby.
    Seen it happen like 3 weeks after the filter had been replaced and the carby had just been cleaned by the mechanic.
    He was less than impressed to have it back so soon.
  11. I understand your pain - you're bike is quite new to anything I've ever owned! What you describe - cables snapping - isn't actually a 'breaking down' issue. I keep snapping both cables on teh GR650 and now the speedo drvie has gone south; don't need a tacho, and just fitted up a bicycle speedo. The cam chain is, as others have alluded, a maintenance issue - no different to changing tyres except less frequent and more expensive. So it sounds like a fuel issue just needs sorting. One possibility: my friend's Kwaka GPX was doing what you described and it was a rusty tank; tank changed and no more problems; the mechanic said this was quite common on the GPX / Kawakas...
  12. I'm going to go with the herd and reccommend that you pull it appart and fix everything you can on it. You'd be surprised what you can do with a little patience and a workshop manual.

    At this point the bike should not depreciate in value as it gets older. Only deteriating condition and more K's will lower your bike's value. So assuming you have a car (or other form of transport e.g hot air balloon) then it wont matter if you take your time giving your bike some TLC. The time you spend on it will give you knowledge you can use to save money on future bikes.

    Obviously if you don't want to learn about bike maintenance and mechanics this isn't the right option for you but you'll have to discount your bike heavily to sell it. Remember that people are cutting back on spending, and due to winter and the new licencing scheme less people are out there buying bikes. You might end up stuffing around for a long time if you try and sell your bike at this time in it's current condition.

    I can understand the way you feel about your bike, I feel the exact same way about my POS car. Perhaps you could take a 2 - 4 week holiday from your bike and drive instead. You might rekindle a little bit of love if you're both given time to reconsider your feelings towards each other. I know a break from my car has helped me appreciate it more. I drove my car today for the first time in a long time and I couldn't help but forgive it for all the pain it's caused me in the past. We just needed a break from each other.

    /End rant
  13. This taken out of context sounds hilarious

  14. thanks for the replies everyone, if I knew more mechanically I would have no problems trying to fix everything myself.... unfortunately I know nothing about motors, I have only ever done very very basic repairs myself eg new cable new brake lever. As you say though I have the option to try and learn and work on the bike which would be very valuable knowledge..... it may never run again after I start on it though lol

    the fuel drains fine when you pull the hose off but the filter only fills up with a few ml's, not sure if that's normal or if the filter should be completely full
  15. What we're seeing here is the downside of the 'buy POS as your first bike' theory.
    If you're not a mechanic and you have no interest in becoming one, it just isn't a very good advice to follow.
  16. Perhaps, but it may also be the downside of the 'buy a 15 year old 'fire breathing' 250 sportsbike rather than a 6 or 7 year old something a bit less exciting but much more reliable' syndrome... lots of people out there paying lots of money for very old bikes because they look cooler and had more peak horsepower when they were new... and then having trouble with them.

    Anyway, both that para and the preceding post are speculative and not that helpful to the OP. ;-)

    Sounds to me like it's worth tracking down the fueling issue and fixing it - if the engine has just had cam chain tensioners done and if it isn't blowing masses of smoke or whatever you're probably fairly close to having it in running nick where you'll be able to sell it.

    It's a bit of a long shot, but when I was having issues with the filter not filling with fuel it was a petc0ck issue. Try running the bike with the fuel switch on 'Prime' instead of 'On' for one trip to work and see if it's better (remember to turn it back when you get there, because leaving it on 'Prime' while it's parked can be Bad News). If it works fine then a replacement petc0ck might see you right.
  17. I'd recommend a carby strip and total induction cleanse. Sounds like alternative medicine, come to think of it, but its dead simple. You just need to take your tank off (when empty or close to it) and get at your carbies and filters. Pics with digital camera along the way of parts coming out and various bolts next to where they need to go back in will save you headaches apon reassembling.

    Fuel tank shouldn't look rough, murky or bubbly on the inside surface. If you've got lots of deposits or rust, then its time to get a new tank. This shouldn't be hard for a common older bike, look up a few wreckers and ask them if they've got a good tank for you. Just say you need it to be usable, thats all you're after. You can always paint it yourself, which again isn't too hard.

    Moving onto the carbies, they'll be sitting in a row right next to your cylinder block. If you're aprehensive, get a mate to come over and help or do a bit of research online. Its all fairly straight forward once you understand the principles of what everything does. You'll need to take the bottom off each one and clean the jets. If theres muck caked into the bottom of the carbies (white/brown residue) then you'll need to get that out with some metho, nylon scourer and toothpicks. The jets can be reamed out by removing them and running wool through them until they gleam. Only remove one at a time on one carby to ensure you don't mix any up. Reassemble once cleaning is done.

    For the filters, check fuel and air filters. Any lines that are cracked or hardened should be replaced. Take the old line to the store to avoid problems. Don't worry about people saying 'that shouldn't be on there!', I've had people tell me I need EFI line for a 125 stroker with no fuel pump. If the fuel filter is the sintered bronze type and not paper element type then you can reverse flush it with metho to remove blocked debris. The air cleaner, if dirty, can be cleaned with hot water and detergent if foam, but must be replaced if paper. Before reinstalling foam filters, make sure you re-oil them with air filter oil. Instructions are on the can.

    There, thats pretty much a comprehensive overview of rejuvenating your fuel and air intake. Look out for perished rubber parts or loose hoses as you go. Make sure you take photos along the way to help with reassembly, and don't worry about stuffing up. You've got to start somewhere! If you really are nervous, buy a junker whipper-snipper for a couple of bucks and take that apart and get it going again. It'll give you a bit of preparation for the bike with no worries of anything drastic going wrong. Also, if you do get it running then you've scored a cheap garden tool for yourself.

    Cheers, hope all goes well - boingk
  18. You're bike doesn't sound like it has any major issues, just maintenance. A new 250cc being fed dirty varnished fuel will have the same problems regardless of whether its a 'firebreathing' 250 or some other breed of uniquely reliable and impervious 250 that I have yet to see. :roll:

    If you are going to do a carby strip, you could consider getting a rebuild kit from your manufacturer. It should include all the o rings you'll end up needing. You'll need to clean it all out, reassemble it and have it rebalanced.
  19. MMhmm - you missed the cam chain tensioners and snapped cables, then, eh? The point was not 'fire breathing', the point was age. Old bikes have more things go wrong with them than new bikes, and the OP was complaining about things going wrong.