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Should i fit a tyga exhaust to my NSR 150 sp

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by rgr_88, Oct 28, 2007.

  1. Have been wondering if i should fit a tyga-performance exhaust to my NSR 150 sp, i have heard that they will increase the power of the bike but will it also shorten the life of the bike overall and possibly cause it to seize?

  2. no.
    no matter what you do, it will still be a 150 ;)
  3. Changing the exhaust without changing the jetting will cause it to run lean = possible seizure. Enrich the jetting also.
  4. Spoken exactly like someone I know............ME :)
  5. Talk to TYGA themself (send them an email) and see what changes it requires. Without changing the air inlet side of things, the biggest gain you'll get is the weight loss.

    If you got down the path of modifying your bike a lot more, then you are trading reliability for performance.
  6. IMO if you're going to do a pipe it should be pretty much automatic to get the bike jetted, tuned and dynoed to suit the pipe. That's what maximises the gains you're getting the pipe for, and also protects the bike by enuring that it's properly set up.
  7. The Tyga pipe was designed to go with their 31mm carb upgrade (no longer available), a pod filter and some other internal engine mods.

    One owner in Tassie who I spoke with said that the only real change was some more noise.

    I am inclined to agree, if the bike remains otherwise standard. The jetting does not (according to Tyga) need altering with a standard bike/setup.

    I now have a spare airbox lid and some jets, and am about to see what difference a less-restricted airbox makes. I expect very little...


    Trevor G
  8. is it a slip on or full system?
  9. did any of you own a nsr150 even ? i did...

    sheeeesh :p

    get the pipe, it is a must ! gives it so much more top end power, and power in general (just go find the dyno run on the tyga site), you DONT need a rejet, its a full system, bolts on with little effort and you'll smile at just how cheap it all is and how much better the bike will run

    again BUY IT you cant go wrong, i put mine on at 21k km's, sold the bike at 32k km's running like it was still new, there def. arnt any lean issues, well not on mine

    as for the airbox, i hacked mine up a little, made a better note, no noticable power gains...

    got myself a bigger carb, pob filter and that helped power through the whole rev range

    its only a 150, but being so much lighter than the 250 4's itll eat em up ;)

    my 2c,
  10. hey there... my guess is that lean issues wont be much of an issue on the nsr150 when esp riding it just around town. traffic and the coppers would allow enough rev time to clear out the carbon.
    thus, a pipe logically should be beneficial.
    a mate had one installed.. sounded great, and he says that it felt like it had more horses pulling too.

    questn for damo - do you mean you cut the opening of the airbox up more... below or on top of the air cleaner element?

    this bigger carb... is it one from an nsr 250? (it was suggested in the nsr world furums)... where did you find the carb and pod filters?

    also the nsr-world forum said that the nsr250 carb is best accompanied by a tyga expansion chamber... is yours stock?

  11. Aren't Tyga exhausts really loud, (moreso than a 2smoke already is) hehe
  12. Tyga reckon it won't be an issue if you keep std air filters. I put one on a few days ago and I am getting it dyno tuned (rejetted) in a week or two with a pod filter - but the for moment I have kept std filter. Runs well, but I can feel it leaning out at about 7000-8000rpm at full throttle, so will be taking it easy til I get it tuned. I would recommend therefore you factor in a tune if you get one.

    Sound - yes way louder and way more harsh sounding (not exactly a lovely v-twin throb :) ) Power - difference is like night and day. Look at their dyno comparison on their web site. It gives a good visual indication of the different feel of the bike. When it picks up it is so much more powerful and revs out a lot higher instead of choking at 9500rpm like it does with original pipe.

    On top - ie so that the air still gets filtered!!! But if you are going to do that you will definitely need a re jet - I reckon you do even without airbox changes but this would make it certain. But if you were doing that, why would you not just get a pod filter? (...yeah yeah I know, low airspeed at low revs with a pod filter, which means you lose torque down low. But you don't party til 5-6000rpm anyway, especially with the new exhaust, so who cares?)
  13. I can't help wondering if your bike had/has other issues?

    Our NSR with just 5,500 km pulls strongly to 10,500 rpm.

    The power and performance figures shown on the Tyga site do not seem to reflect our standard NSR. The figures suggest that the Thai bikes were restricted, which is not unusual in some markets.

    As mentioned elsewhere another NSR owner with a Tyga told me that there was no real power gain when he fitted the pipe, just a better noise.

    I wonder what the real story is?? Certainly I would not expect a Tyga to produce very much more power without a jetting change. Even Tyga say that is not necessary. The real benefit comes from the big carb kit, but that is NLA.

    If you are game, have them dyno the bike before and after the Tyga change. It shouldn't take all that long to do with the fairing off...

    Is there any sort of restrictor in your oem pipe?


    Trevor G
  14. Hi Trevor,

    I am not sure if there is a restrictor in the stock pipe, but from all the research I have done, it's no surprise at all that the pipe produces more power even if there is no restrictor. My understanding is that being a two stroke it can improve a fair bit if the stock expansion chamber isn't ideal dimensions. The scavenging effect has a lot of room to improve over stock and can change the nature of the power curve. And this is the experience of some others I have spoken to. :?

    Certainly the ar$e dyno is conclusive - I rode through Sassafras/Olinda/Mobulk/Emerald on the weekend and the difference was huge compared to the ANZAC day ride through the Black Spur and open roads around Yea. I found that I could ride around the higher speed sections without the bike struggling at all. The Tyga graph seems to map out pretty well what I can feel.

    If I can get my wife to come in the car on dyno day to bring the stuff along, I'll definitely put the std exhaust on first, then the new exhaust (and pod filter).

    Also the Tyga pipe cannot be fitted without a jet change in my experience. I can feel it leaning out in certain higher parts of the rev range, hence I am keeping it in the low-mid range most of the time until dyno day.

    We'll see how it goes and I'll post the results :)

    Edit: PS when I first bought the bike I paid a mechanic to go over the bike and he commented on how well the engine was running and riding (had stock pipe) so doubt there was/are any issues. It always run really well. The bike would rev to redline still producing power, but the Tyga pipe just gets more and more to redline alot higher power, rather than the stock which increased in power til around 9,500 then there was not much point taking it above that coz you're better off in the next gear.

  15. And that is exactly where I cannot believe it represents the bikes sent to Australia.


    The standard bike on their chart won't pull more than 110 kmh!

    Even allowing for speedo inaccuracy mine will pull strongly to 120 kmh with more to come. What gives? I've never heard of an aussie owner complaining that it's slow...or won't go over 110.

    I'm keen to see some real figures. I'm happy to contribute to your expenses to the tune of $60 if we can get dyno runs of:

    1) Stock standard bike, no mods

    2) Tyga pipe added, standard airbox (jetted or unjetted, doesn't probably matter a lot)

    PM me if you are interested. I would like a set of graphs and to have them posted in NR.


    Trevor G

    PS The standard airbox is quite good - a new lid without the restrictive trumpet definitely flows more air. (I tried it.)
  16. OIC where the issue is - that dyno test is only in one gear - probably third, I'd guess. It should really say rpm down the bottom rather than mph as it's misleading. They put it in say 3rd to provide some rolling resistance and then open her up from idle to redline. So depending on what gear you are in, you get a different top speed (note the 'slowest' the bike runs is 33mph). If they did that test in 1st the 'top' speed would be 70kph ish or if they did it in 6th it'd be 170-ish. When you change gears on the dyno it looks like a bunch of those peaks one after the other, six times.

    So maybe that's why there's a difference in experience. But if you imagine that it says rpm, I would put the cross over of the two lines (50mph) at about 5,500 to 6000rpm and the start of the std peak at about 7,500 to 8000rpm then the drop off of the std peak at about 9,500 - 10,000rpm, whereas you can see the Tyga keeps pushing until redline (probly past it). And that's totally in line with my experience.

    Mine use to pull 'strongly' to about 110 but from 110 to 120 wasn't a crisp acceleration. Beyond that it accellerated fairly slowly. Now it reaches above 120 without trying (haven't had it above that so far. Bloody commuting :) ).

    So perhaps there is a restrictor in the pipe, there may have been, but as I said I wasn't surprised by that power gain from the expansion chamber dimension changes alone. See it does actuallt lose out in low and mids coz it's tuned for better svavenging at higher rpm so it doesn't choke itsekf up high.

    The dyno will be the most conclusive obviously...

    Edit: I know wikipedia is not the font of all knowledge :grin: , but I just did a quick search...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expansion_chamber
    I believe the new pipe is 'tuned' for much higher rpm, hence it loses out on lown down power.
    Also, the new pipe is shorter.
  17. hey guys ..me again with my 2 stroke 2 cents worth..firstly.. any mod u make to a 2 stroke engine in reguards to air flow will need to be re jetted/ tuned to suit what u have done..2 stroke scavange air and fuel its very important ,,put it this way..a change in altitude ,like riding up a mountain is enough to change your bikes performance / air and fuel mix,,so changing the full exhaust system will doo much more..this is probably why some one said a pipe will reduce engine life..cus they havent made proper accomidations for it..hence another reason why 2 strokes have a bad rep...pple messing with them half arsed.. secondly a good pipe on a 2 stroke is the single most benificial improvement u can make. all my bikes have had pipes made for them..i have a friend who had a pipe made for his nsr150 and came out great..much better all the way around the rev range..but also remember it is a small capacity engine..and not a race rep either..in my eyes a poor eg of a 2 stroke sports bike. thirdly..take no notice what so ever of what dyno figures some company has printed out..its all apart of sales..and your setting your self up for dissapointment..try to find some one who has actually done it privately b4 u make a choice...like i said to my friend there a better bikes to spend money on...but its your money,,, there a still builders out there who will make custom pipes for 2 strokes hand built..designed for exactly the type of riding u want to do..let me know if u need contacts...
  18. Hi twinrock,

    This is my experience too with the Tyga exhaust.

    I agree, made a big difference.

    True, you dunno how they've been manipulated. I was suggesting that the figures do graphically represent to others the changes I could feel when I fitted the pipe, not the reason I bought one.

    Yep, I looked around for reviews of people that fitted it and spoke to people I knew bout it. Good idea. So I've done it, love it and I can further recommend to people to do it, but they must do it knowing the full picture - ie it will probly require a tune :)

    That's right - stupidity makes the world go round :) pipe and silencer only $230, dyno will be around $200. Goes heaps better, slightly louder for traffic to hear me, will be running beautifully after tune. I only just got around to booking my full licence test (damn expensive wedding :LOL: ), so still have 12mths of restricted riding. Best $430 I could spend IMO - trying to stave off getting frustrated with the restrictions :grin: :grin:
    Won't do anything else though - nothing else could give the performance per dollar return, excpet buying my beautiful blue Triumph Daytona 675 :grin: :grin: :LOL:
  19. Looking at getting the tyga system as advertised on RGV spares to get some extra grunt out of Violet Elizabeth as a reward for slimming her chicken strips right down to the rims.... :twisted: Email communications from them make it sound fairly easy to change the chamber and pipe over, so not too worried about the mechanical side of things (famous last words :LOL: )

    The thing I am scratching my head over is how to get the bike raised properly to access the chamber system. The planks of wood job I used to lube the chain won't do for this job! :LOL:

    What did you guys use? Racestands look good, but a) are they suitable for this sort of work, b) do you need the flat platforms or will these stands fit the bobbin attachments and c) do they fit the NSR with it's single side swingarm? As you can tell, it's not too obvious to me just yet. :?:

    Might be a stupid question, but would rather find out before I part with $100+ on a stand only to get the wrong type. :oops:
  20. You'll need to buy a single sided swingarm rear stand for your bike. Just make sure when you purchase it you specify it is for your bike ( you may have to state what side the swingarm is on). I think from memory, the stand has a pin that goes through the middle of the rim.

    A rear stand should be all you need to do the work....I haven't done the exhaust on the NSR-SP before, but I can't imagine it being too much different from other bikes. Are you planning to change the carbie and jet as well?