Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Seized Fairing Screw

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by thefloppy1, Mar 10, 2011.

  1. I have a seized fairing screw on my R6, the one that screws into the Front Sprocket cover.

    Anybody got any ideas on how to get it out. If I keep tring to turn it I am going to smooth it out so I needs some ideas. I have tried hiting it with a hammer, but as it is in plastic fasten into a plastic part it all flexes and does no good..

    any suggestions..

  2. If the screw, screws into plastic....warm the screw with a soldering iron by holding the iron on the screw head... heat radiates down the screw, softens the plastic ...
  3. I am just not sure what it screws into.. but this is a good idea I might try as well.
  4. It will destroy the screw but you could try and easy-out
  5. I am going to replace the screw anyway so destroying it is an option, heating it didn't do anything.

    I am thinking about taking the whole fairing off, as well as the sprocket cover it is attached to and working on it from the other side.

    But easier options would be great. I will keep the easy-out option till last resort.
  6. either dremel a slit in it and use a flat head or failing that use an easy out set.
  7. I should point out that it is still a hex fit, not perfect now but I can still add alot of torque onto it. The problem is that it is siezed in. I am going to try a chemical release agent tonight, my little bro got me from his work.
  8. correction...

    Damage has been done, will be getting an ease out kit tomorrow, any suggestions where I should go to get one.
  9. Any hardware store should have one. I got mine from the local co-op hardware
  10. Bolt 1, Ease out Kit 0.

    Broke the ease out bolt...
  11. Did you end up getting it?

    If there is still a head on the bolt, I find using a punch/stout flat-head screwdriver, and using that to 'punch' the bolt around in a circle usually does it.

    I can't remember that trick ever failing me, the combination of the shock and the small rotational force gets it out.

    So, near the edge of the bolt head, bash the punch/driver straight into the bolt to form a bit of a groove, then punch it at an angle (counter clockwise, please!) driving the punch into the groove you just created.

    Should get it to give with minimal swearing.

  12. I'd go with Tim there. That'll do it if you're cool about tossing it after.
  13. This I had also thought about.

    I did come out eventually.. looks like somebody had over tightened the bolt, and the aluminum brush that sits between the bolt head and the nut it screws into had been squeezed enough to cause the problem. I had to drill pretty much though the bolt, and then two of us had to pull on the metal tube on the shifter handle to get it undone.

    It did take me a couple of different ease out kits. From now on I only get expensive tools. You get what you pay for.

    I am now on to replacing the brake lines, dont ask me what somebody has dont to the front splitter. but needless to say yet another bolt I will not be reusing.. (they have rounded the nut and over torqued it in the process..)
  14. For rounded off bolts, visegrips are your friend.

    BTW, do you know howmany times I had to type this befre I got it right.

    Our favourite coffee shop has a new blend in called Bonko, I'm all a quiver from caffiene..:demon: