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RWC - front tyre has high and low spots

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by jack_1313, Aug 13, 2013.

  1. I took a bike in for a RWC today at a car place and subsequently spoke on the phone with the reception. She altered me of the following items:

    Exhaust needs to be sound tested. The exhaust system is a Staintune: from the factory, it comes with engraved “Noise Compliance Plates,” stating the noise level. These plates are permanently installed and visible on the swing arm. I pointed this out over the phone. Should that be sufficient evidence of noise level to pass a RWC? I’m not too concerned about this, though, because I can reinstall the stock exhaust.

    Clutch lever pin needs adjusting or replacing – I very much doubt it needs replacing, and I have no idea how one "adjusts" the pin :confused: But I can re-grease it. I think there was a tiny squeak sometimes audible on clutch operation beforehand, but the lever action is totally smooth.

    The front tyre has high and low spots – I have no idea what they could be referring to here, having never heard of such an issue. This is the thing that I’m concerned about because, taking a guess, that tyre is at 60%. Can anyone explain what “high and low spots” means and how such a thing could develop?

    (I don’t think they’re referring to uneven wear, which would only be a safety issue in the most extreme circumstances anyway.)

    I am going in tomorrow for the full list.
  2. I could only imagine "high and low" spots to mean that the tire wear is uneven or you have scalloping.

    This can be due to a slightly buckled rim, miss-aligned axle, or wheel running out of true. If they are scalloped it's usually due to a soft front end or running low pressure.

    May I ask why you had your bike RWC completed at a "car place?"
  3. The rear tyre was poorly aligned when I got the bike, and I only discovered and corrected that after I had ridden it back from Sydney to Melbourne. The pressure in both tyres was also low, another issue rectified only after the ride back.

    I'm keen to see this tyre tomorrow. If they're just talking about a bit of left-to-right uneven wear, I won't be too happy, as that's something I thought was relatively normal and a product of our right hand turns being, on average, longer than our left ones? Every bike I've owned has done it to some extent.

    Sure :) This place charges about half the price of every other provider. I debated with myself over whether I should run the risk of going here or whether I should just pay more to go to a mechanic that I know won't be too anally retentive. The economic argument won out.
  4. Tyre wear could be 'scalloping' which is high and low areas on the contact part of the tyre. It's common enough to be believable and is a genuine safety issue on a front tyre. It's not very easy to spot visually but you would definitely feel the difference in a back to back comparison.
    If true, you are better off with a new one.
  5. Go somewhere else
  6. I've read up on "cupping" and "scalloping" now, so at least I have a better idea of what the mechanic might be referring to. Some sources seem to consider it part of the natual wear pattern of a tyre:

    Once I've got the bike back, I'll be have a good look at the tire and perhaps post a picture of it here if the wear looks normal to me.

    Too late. Since going somewhere else will cost $135, I might as well just put a new front on it - something I don't mind doing if there really is a problem. (It's just a shame I won't have time to get one sent over from Jake Wilson at a good price.)

    The clutch lever pin "adjustment" has just made me sceptical, that's all.
  7. add an extra 2 psi on your front and rear.
    Scalloping can become an issue when the tyre is constantly underinflated.
    Going elsewhere is pointless as the problems have been identified.
  8. Ok, I picked up the bike today. Here's the list of the items that need "fixing."

    Foot peg rubber worn - ok, it's a minute item, but it is a little bit worn.

    Brake and clutch levers have up and down movement. Gear shifter has left to right movement. This seems quite absurd to me. I've never ridden a bike that doesn't have some amount of play in these controls. The other three bikes in my garage all have it. On the gear shifter, we're talking about maybe half a millimetre. Please see the video.

    They want me to take the bike to the mechanic down the road so that he can look at the movement in the gear shifter and, as I understand, the levers too and either shim them or write that they are fine as is. I'm not too happy about this - I'm paying them to judge whether or not these things are roadworthy, not to tell me to pay someone else to tell them whether they are or not.

    It seems that the front tyre seems to has flat spots along the horizontal axis - see video. I don't know enough about tyres to comment on whether this is normal or not.

    The biggest surprise was the rear brake pads. I took all callipers off the bike and checked all pads last week - I thought that the rears, while a bit low, were fine, having more material left than the front. On the day I took the bike in, I checked the front again but didn't bother rechecking the rear. So you can image my shock to hear and see that the rears now have practically nothing left on them :S Maybe I did a lot of braking over that week...

    As mentioned in my first post, the exhaust apparently needs sound testing even though there are Staintune compliance plates fixed to the swing arm.

    During my five minutes in there, I was told no less than three time that I should go to the mechanic down the street do the work (or even just to buy the tyre) and was given his card. Obviously, I won't be doing that.

    Anyone know where I can buy shim-washers in Melbourne to reduce the lever play? Normal washers will likely be far too thick.
  9. Just went outside and measure the amount of clearance around the pivot pins for the levers so that I know what shims I need to solve the movement "problem":

    Gear shifter: 0.6 mm
    Clutch lever: 0.4 mm
    Brake lever: 0.2 mm

    These guys are fucking nuts!
  10. If the rear wheel was out of allignment, that could maybe explain the sudden loss of meat on your rear brake pads
  11. #11 jack_1313, Aug 15, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2013
    I’m starting to lose my nut with this bunch. I called them earlier today to schedule in the follow up appointment.

    They told me that if I want to do the work myself, I need to have receipts and do a statutory declaration saying that I have done it. I said that this shouldn’t be necessary – the mechanic should be able to see if there is a new tyre on the bike, see if the foot peg rubber and brake pads have been replaced etc.

    Sure – but what about the lever movement? What am I going to do about that? I told them that although their mechanic had instructed me to have a motorcycle mechanic either shim the levers or verify that they are OK, I was just going to go ahead and shim them myself. Nope, not good enough – how will they know it’s been done?

    It was at this point that I told them frankly that I’m surprised that they are telling me that I have to have another mechanic tell them whether something is roadworthy. That’s when I was transferred to the mechanic, who, after asking me if I’m a qualified motorcycle mechanic, told me that they just do the inspection, not “the work”, and that I would have to pay him if I wanted him to take the levers off and decide whether or not they are ok.

    Then I got the story about some big case at the moment where a roadworthy was performed on a bike, the bike was sold, and then the new owner was killed because the lever snapped off!

    So I was fuming by the time I hung up: They tell me that there should be absolutely no vertical movement in the levers and no side-to-side movement in the gear shifter, but, when it comes down to it, they can’t say whether there’s a problem or not and aren’t happy with anything less than me paying someone else to make the judgement. And who has ever had to hand over receipts and make a stat declaration to prove that work has been done for a roadworthy?
  12. so go elsewhere it's not a huge issue.
    Try high street Ashburton the mechanic there is a Netrider and they do roadworthies. for bikes
  13. Get bike back.
    Pay nothing.

    Take bike elsewhere.
    Say nothing else.
    • Agree Agree x 2
  14. Beaten by @smee
  15. I'd love to go somewhere else, but since I've paid for the initial inspection, I'm more or less locked in... unless I want to throw away money for the sake of principle.

  16. What have you paid for exactly?
    What service has been provided?

    First thing to do is recover your property.
    Second thing is to be reimbursed the cost of "inspection"
  17. I actually picked the bike up on Wednesday, which is when I recorded that video in my above post. So I paid the initially inspection cost - the follow-up will be free.
  18. hindsight is a wonderful thing, but the sort of things these guys have told you that need fixing probably don't. Except now you need to get them fixed because the inspection says so.

    What you need to do is bite the bullet and take the bike to a bike shop to get the inspection done. It sucks that you need to pay again but you don't have a lot of choice unfortunately.

    I'd be reluctant to pay the "car place" anything because as you say, they have identified things that might be a problem (that you could have identified yourself) and then told you to pay someone else to work out if it means it is ir isn't roadworthy... that's bullshit.

    It's obvious they don't know, so if they don't know if an issue affects roadworthiness they're not qualified to do the roadworthy inspection, so they're not actually providing you the service you've paid for, so you're entitled not to pay for it (I think that's logically sound.. legally, NFI...). I think it's one of your basic rights as a consumer; the goods or services you have paid for have not been delivered.

    expensive lesson though. best of luck getting it sorted.
  19. You might be able check these items in your bike's service/workshop manual. In the routine maintinence ( 10k / 20k service ) the free play on all of these should be checked for adjustment or possible replacement. You should be able to find a copy online. If you can show that the movement is within manufacturer specs then they or their nominated mechanic should be able to sign off on them.
  20. FFS bite the bullet and take it elsewhere, they are playing you badly.