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RVF400 - Screen rivets?

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by TheYak, Sep 20, 2007.

  1. I've got a double-bubble screen ready to fit to the RVF, but I don't know how to do so because the rivets aren't obviously undoable. Any hints, or do I need to take it in to a shop? I don't particularly want to tool around too much as the front fairing is a sizable and probably expensive piece of plastic.

  2. Use a bigger hammer :LOL: :p
  3. Thanks mate, cheque's in the mail :mad: :oops: :cry: :LOL:
  4. We will have a look Sat morning mate, sure we can work it out
  5. I have some plastic screws which should do the job.
  6. From what I have seen these rivets need to be drilled out and replaced by a new set when it goes back in. Easy :cool:
  7. Just head down to your local bolt supplier & buy some stainless steel dome headed allen head set screws. From memory they are either M4 or M5. Use a SS washer & SS nylock nuts on them & just nip them up. Not too tight or you'll crack the screen. Job done. And they're re-usable
  8. Drill the rivets out with a drill bit roughly the same size as the whole in the rivet (or slightly larger). Get some new ones and a rivet gun and put them in.

    Rivets can be confusing little things if you have no idea how they work.

    Rivets will give you a more flush, neater finish.
  9. Thanks for the replies all, hopefully you won't see a cracked RVF front fairing in the for sale section soon :LOL:
  10. I have some black plastex if the worst happens mate :)
  11. I'll be takin' yer tips from herre too Roarin... Picked up a wee 400 t'other day and should have it on the road soonish.
  12. Yeah, I'd strongly advise against reusing rivets, too risky in novice's hands, could end up splitting something.
    SS bolts are the best bet, with small rubber grommets under the heads, to allow the acrylic screen to expand and contract independently. Ever noticed how acrylic screens craze around the bolt holes? Lack of movement.
    SS FTW!;
    So, whatever bolts you use, use some sort of washer under them, rubber or nylon is best, do not overtighten the bolts, use either Nyloc nuts or Loctite, and if a hole needs to be enlarged to make it fit, do it. You don't want to put stress on teh acrylic, it will be fine short term, but will craze long term, and may even crack.
    I also like to put a strip of double sided foam tape between screen and body, to allow some movement of the acrylic.

    Regards, Andrew.
  13. Cheers Andrew :)

    What's this then Loz? :grin:
  14. Well, finally pulled the toolset out this afternoon, and had a go at destroying the fairing :LOL:

    A few tips if anybody else is going to try this:

    - For the accessible rivets, use a socket over a cloth on the rivet head, squeeze with a tongue-and-groove to pop them out.
    - For the harder to reach rivets, you'll either have to take the fairing off or drill them out. I chose to drill them out.
    - Use a set of locking pliers to hold the rivet tail so the head doesn't spin when the drill gets into it.
    - While drilling, pour water over the rivet, or it could heat up and melt the fairing.

    I used M4 nylon screws; I'm not sure the iridium look suits the bike, but then the point was to reduce wind factor at LAMS warp speed, not bling.

    End result... :cool: :oops: :?

  15. hahaha nice one mate!

    good to see her clean again too :cool:
  16. Thanks guys :) Was a bit :shock: when I went to clean the lower fairing :LOL: