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Rusty Fuel Tank

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by ZZRoom, Apr 23, 2006.

  1. Hi All !

    I wonder if anyone can offer some advice.

    I have a ZZR1100 that Im working on that hasn't been started in well over a year (It's not running at the moment due to no battery, stale fuel in the tank amongst other things).

    The fuel tank is in great condition EXCEPT that it has a fair amount of surface rust on the inside.

    THE QUESTION - Whats the best way to remove the surface rust and scale from the tank ? I'm not even goint to TRY to start her before the fuel system is flushed and clean.

    THANKS for all of your Expert advice !
  2. Before you drain teh stale fuel, get some very coarse sand in there with about a litre or two of teh fuel. seal tank up and slosh around for as long as you can, then some more. It wil help remove the rust scale.
    Flush it a few times with more of teh stale fuel, then let it dry.
    Run a fresh fuel filter in teh fuel line and forget about teh rust.

    Regards, Andrew.
  3. Check with a bike shop, i thought there was some sort of special paint or coating u can get to put in there. Cant remember exactly what it was though.
  4. Yep, I was told the same thing when I enquired about my tank. Funnily enough, I can't remember what the stuff is called either. :p
  5. You can buy a tank repair kit from a bike shop.

    It is a two part pack that will remove the rust and also recoat the tank. You may also be able to get it from an auto shop (which may be cheaper). I can't remember off hand how much it was though, sorry :?
  6. You blokes (not gender specific) are all LEGENDS !!!

    Thanks for all of the info... What are the chances that other areas of the motor are rusty (coz the bikes been sitting for so long)?

    Overall, it looks pretts clean, but I can't see inside the motor or fuel lines... What are your thoughts on the Carbies ?

    I think I'll definatly do the two part pack thingo !

    Cheers again !!!
  7. Go and get a product called kreem its a 3 part process and will get rid of the rust and leave a coating on the inside of your tank.Do not spill it on your paint as it will eat it off like acid
  8. tanks alot

    There used to be some stuff called "kreem" available from bikes shops few years back :lastyear: ,was a 2 part solution,1st part was like an acetate solution,eats away any rust,or pretty much anything else it comes into contact with bar metal,I think they drained it from Aliens blood or something,thats where the saying youre bloods worth bootling comes from, :woot: nasty stuff,dont poor it down the drain or seek medical attention if ingested,exxon valdeez stuff,then I personally washed it out with water,let it dry thoroughly,chuck some marbles in there to loosen any stubborn blood n guts n grease of the rod,then the 2nd part was a white solution thats thick coles placky bag or condom,basically a liner that is a membrane between the metal and the juice,kinda like McCleans toothpaste cavity protection for your Tank.Takes ages to dry and only kinda worked,I have heard of a few dudes with hassles with ZZR1100 rusted tanks and their rare as rocking horse s*it to get in good nick.

    After I creamed the tank,no I aint joking,thats what it was called,"kreem"I put a 2 part epoxy metal compound on the rusted thru weeping areas on the outside of the tank,polymers and epoxy compounds have come a looooong way in the last few years,this stuff sets like metal,you can drill it,tap it,file it,really good stuff,if that dont fix it only other option that I know of is cutting out effected area and welding it back up,thats the most expensive option.
    Good luck
  9. I'll 3rd that. Thinking of doing it too my current bike as I noticed a few particulates in the carbies, when I had them off the other day.

    1st part is acetone. Eats any petrochemical based product.
    2nd part is Phosphoric Acid. Turns Iron oxide to Iron Sulphate. The water rinse part is important.
    3rd part is the paint/sealant.

    It costs around $90, but the kit only covers small-medium tanks, so you may need 2.

    Also be aware that some tanks already have a liner and the kit may not take because of it. The Acetone basical doesn't remove the old liner propoerly and you just end up with a mess in your tank. The manufactures are listed on (in maybe?) the kit. Hardley is one of them.
  10. there's also a product called POR-15
  11. Yep go KREEM YOURSELF :grin: