Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Rust treatment

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by joomi, Apr 28, 2007.

  1. My poor vtr250 has been getting rained on recently and some small rust spots are now raising their filthy little heads, mostly on the joints on the frame. In a very small area the paint is starting to flake off.

    Can anyone recommend a way to reverse/prevent these rust spots?


  2. I'll second that.

    I spray my bike with silicon spray.
  3. Does the silicon spray work? Do you only spray the problem areas or the entire frame?

    There is a rust treatment you can get in a spraycan which sounds like it works a treat. I'll go get some today. Hope it works as good as this article says.

  4. Looked up the ingredients of that permatex stuff and seems it's just vinyl dissolved in some acetone. So should work but probably wouldn't be any more effective than just using silicon spray or even fish oil. I'm guessing the colour change to black they mention is just down to hydration of the iron oxide - so it's not removing the rust but just keeping it from contact with air to stop it spreading.
  5. For surface rust, nothing beats a bit of sandpaper and a new paint job :D. Sand rust off, prime it straight away, and you can wait a while to paint if you want :p.
  6. Works like a treat. I do the engine, clutch cover, back of the headlights, wheel spokes etc. Best bit is it's damn easy to clean it next time - you just spray off the silicon and... spray again.
  7. If the rust is gard to get to - as you said, it is in joins, maybe rust converter solution is the go. It's clear liquid that reverses the oxidisation (rust) process. Can be painted over after as the rust changes colour. Did a trailer in it and no more rust. Do need to prime and paint to prevent further rust but as it is works well.
  8. Australian standards have a section on rust converters in one of the coating standards. Rust converters are essentially poo pooed. You can't rely on them for long term protection, and in industry they are in no way an acceptable preparation for a decent coating system.

    The only way to stop rust without some kind of electronic/cathodic protection system is to seperate steel from air/moisture, i.e. a barrier, namely paint.

    Steel is not in it's lowest energy state, so it has a drive towards rust.

    Fish oil, silicon etc act as a barrier, but aren't very robust, so needs to be regularly applied.

    Clean up the rust (sanding as a minimum), degrease the location, make sure you haven't put any greasy salty finger prints on the fresh metal and coat with a good quality system. Nooks and crannies are hard to clean... goodluck!
  9. Thanks for the tips. I found some rust converter/primer in one so I think I'll have to purchase that and see how I go, then think about painting it later. It IS hard to do a proper sanding job on it as some of it is a prick to get. Either way I better do it soon.
  10. Sand what you can then hit the rest with (ortho)phosphoric acid - this converts rust to a water soluble iron phosphate which is far easier to remove. You should be able to find it in auto stores for a lot less than most rust converters - it's actually the active ingredient in many of them. It's also an additive in Coca-Cola (food acid) which is why that's also supposedly good for removing rust (haven't tested it myself though).
  11. Long term solution... buy a bike cover.
  12. Doesn't always help. You're still going through crud, mud, rain, sand, grit as well as parking it outside from time to time.
  13. The bike sleeps in a garage. My car has subsequently been left outside in the cold! I pretty much have to park it outside when I'm at uni and work or pay for parking which I'm not going to do. I'm on and off the bike all day so a cover would be a bit of a hassle I think. I'll try and find some of this (ortho)phosphoric acid this weekend to convert the rust. Then I will need a primer and paint too. Hopefully that will solve the problem. thanks for advice guys.
  14. Just make sure you flush the area thoroughly with clean water after the acid (ideally used distilled or de-ionized) - then follow up imediately with some metho to get it dry quickly. There's usually enough moisture in the air for exposed steel to start oxidising fairly quickly so the less time spent without at least a coat of primer on it the better. Basically make sure you have everything you need before you start. I remember a neighbour of mine that stripped a car back to bare metal one weekend - then waited till the next weekend to prime it (and then couldn't work out why the rust came back) :LOL:.