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Rust and pitting on forks

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Macaroni646, Sep 15, 2014.

  1. Hi Guys,

    Went to inspect a late 2009 model Ninja 250 and I spotted quite a bit of rust and pitting on the upper forks. It's been mostly in storage and taken out once in a while to keep things ticking apparently (only has 4300km on the clock). Is this amount of rust acceptable? Or should I stay away?


    Also, since it's been in storage for a while, the chain hasn't been cleaned and he said he's lubed it once in 9 months. Is this amount of crud ok? Looks restorable but would like a pro opinion.

    All input appreciated
    Cheers guys!
  2. Looks as if it has been stored in the rain.
  3. Any rust on the forks is not nice, but if it is not bad where the seals run and doesn't leak oil, then you can live with it. You may use this to talk the price down. To have forks re-chromed might be $180 per leg plus seals & oil, if you did it yourself. So you could talk him down $500. You could clean them up with wet n dry & keep them coated with WD or silicone spray to stop it getting worse.
    Dirty chains are common, as most people can't be bothered cleaning & oiling them. It should clean up ok. I've seen a lot worse.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Yes, that area of the forks the rust is purely a cosmetic problem, which will probably clean up completely with a little bit of steel wool....
  5. Thanks guys, inspecting another one tomorrow, hope that one comes up better than this one. Seems like the fork rust is normal on the Kawasaki's going by a google search.
  6. My VTR was unridden for 12 months and I let it sit outside in the elements and there was less rust than that on the forks. It still lives outside now (albeit under the verandah) and the rust situation hasn't got any worse.
  7. There's this great invention called sandpaper...
    • Funny Funny x 1
  8. And Autosol Metal Polish
  9. Rather than scratch up the chrome, you can clean off surface rust with a little metal polish and some scrunched up aluminium foil.
    • Like Like x 1
  10. A fine kitchen scourer (fine steel wool can be OK on chrome, but with some rust affecting it and chrome generally being thinner than it used to be, the green nylon scourers are a good start) with a dab of almost anything gentle that works for this sort of thing should sort it without terrible scratching.

    Something like WD40 (only a little) should help keep it in check.
  11. WD40 and a medium toothbrush worked well for the light surface rust on my chain, cannot see why it wouldnt work on forks :)
  12. #12 Pig Pen, Oct 14, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 31, 2016
    Hi Macaroni
    This must be a kawaka thing as I have the same issues with my 2002 ZX9R. All I did was get some green scotchbrite pads with some inox, wd40 etc and rubbed off as much rust as possible. For bad rust I got some stainless steel wool and again with some oil scrubbed the rust off, just be carefull not the scrub to hard. Then wipe off excess oil and crud. For protection I use CRC Soft Seal and spray the forks come out a titanium colour. But with the deeper rust as its hard to get out the Soft Seal stop the air getting to it thus slowing the rust right down.
    You can get soft seal from Blackwoods, bearing supply shops I think.
    Pig Pen

    Another product to use to seal instead of CRC Soft Seal is CRC Anto Corrosion Light Wet to drive out the moisture in the rust followed by CRC Anti Corrosion Heavy Wax Film.
    Which once I have finished with my current CRC Soft Seal supply I'll be using Light Wet and Heavy Wax instead.