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Running the new beast in

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by Jeimbo, Mar 29, 2007.

  1. Hey all

    Have done 105km on the new C50. I'm keeping the revs low but not lugging the motor.



    What suggestions do people have for me as the bike gains more miles? I haven't had a new bike for near 20 years so would appreciate some tips. I have heard (on a dirt bike forum) to ride it hard but I don't want to stress it too much nor do I want to 'not do enough'.

    Ta
     
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  2. What's the manual say? Usually you are limited in revs for 1000k. The oil will have more say in engine life than under or over use of engine when new.
     
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  3. Manual says quarter to half throttle and not to lug the motor which I've been doing but it's pretty general.
     
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  5. Most manufacturers reccomend1 /2 throttle and half Redline to 500k and then 3/4 throttle and 3/4 redline to 1000 but better to check with the dealer if it's not in the manual
     
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  6. I dont think the C50 has a tacho which could be part of the problem :?
     
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  7. mmmmmm. i guess you don't need one for cruising. Most of the big v-twins only rev to 6500-7000?
    then again you don't need to rev it hard when you've got 20 squillion lb/foot of torque at 1200rpm :grin:
     
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  8. There are two schools of thought on the subject, you have to decide which one to follow. One is to simply follow the manufacturer's instructions, on the principle that they built the bike, they should know best how to run it in.

    The alternative method is to run it hard, or more precisely, in short bursts of reasonably hard acceleration. More details, pros and cons can be found all over the net, but I believe this is the original source:
    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
     
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  9. Congrats on the new bike

    A few long rides better than short trips - as the engine gets to keep at higher opertaing temps.

    Varying the throttle/revs is the main thing, and you're right, don't lug the engine.

    If you've got basic tools, ask the dealer if they recommend a 500km oil and filter change.

    And in regards to running hard or taking it easy - I've never heard of anyone having problems who bought a demo :wink:
     
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  10. Manufacturers handbook says one thing, but if you speak to em 'off the record'
    they tell you the latter (no snapping of the throttle tho) for first 1000km.

    The guy I bought my new bike off is a racer & this is how he runs engines in as
    well. At first, on the phone, he told me exactly whats written in the book however
    when I told him of my thoughts he said yep thats exactly what he does but he
    wasent allowed to say so.

    He has gotten more power from bikes running em in this way.
     
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  11. Mate just ride it normal. Dont rev it too hard when its cold. And dont lug it or load up the engine, thats just as bad as flogging it.. and d ont sit on constant revs / speeds. Take it through some twisties thats good as you will vary your speed alot.. :grin: Yell out if ya need an ear to chew..
     
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  12. The reason why people say to take it through the whole rev range is to get the rings to bed in properly. People say if you mother the engine in the breaking in period the rings will not seat themselves properly and cause power loss/more oil consumption.

    As people said don't lug the engine and make sure its at operating temp before you go riding.

    I remember reading that the manufacturers specify these stringent run in procedures because maybe 1 in 500 bikes might have slightly misfitting cylinder/piston and really mothering the engine will allow the parts to bed into each other without causing too much wear.
     
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  13. +1 Blue & Gash :wink:
     
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  14. I dont know if this will help but i was told by yamaha when running in the virago to do the same as you have been told and to also vary my speed a fair bit. from my understanding of motors (fairly limited but ol'man is engineer) as yo change speed the piston rings rotatate in their grooves thus ensuring that the cylinders remain perfectly round. If you stay at constant speed then your cylinders wear oval and when you change to a speed that you dont usually ride at once that happens then oil will leak past rings.
    Therefore varying your speed during run-in time is crucial. when I go to work Which is how my bike was run in I was doing few k's at 60 a few at 80 few at 100 back to 90 etc (you get the idea). Hope this makes sense. Funny enough this was what I was told to do when running in my car so it must work, never had prob with either.
     
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  15. Wazza / Undii posted his 675 running in procedure on a webforum today, just to add more data for you, here is triumph's procedure for a 675 for the first 500 miles/800 kms


    DSC00352.
     
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  16. There sure is a lot of 'opinions' on the web.

    In the end, you get to decide.

    With my M50 (same engine as the C50), I varied the speed a lot, with the occasional fang, followed by cooling off periods of gentle riding., ie bit of this, bit of that. Just no droning on the freeway! I wouldn't be afraid to give it some stick, but don't overdo it! I found traffic to be a fine environment, as well as some riding around the local hills (Dandenongs) where you can create a loop of 150km or more with constantly varying conditions.

    For me, it appears to have done the trick. Unless you pull the engine down, you will never know!

    But how can you have a new bike for more than a week, and only do 105 km?
    Also, watch out for the new tires as well, if you lean it too much too early, there may be some slippage!
     
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  17. running in procedure> ride hard, take chances.
     
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  18. Give the ol' man a break.

    He's also breaking himself in after a 20yr break remember. :LOL:
     
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  19. Great work guys - pretty much as I thought. Done 150km in 3 days and with school holidays, hope to add a few more hundred in short space of time. Would change oil at 500 but worried about warranty? Spose what they don't know.....
    Need a specific oil too I believe.
    I remember a new TT250 Yam I had. Drained the oil at 300km and all the shiny metal bits were in it.

    Thanks all - appreciate the advice (and am loving the bike too!!)
     
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  20. Just dont switch to synthetic oil to soon. I'd give it at least 1000k before doing that. Its liquid cooled so has better tolerances.
     
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