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Running it in??

Discussion in 'General Motorcycling Discussion' started by Biker Boy, Apr 12, 2011.

  1. Hi Guys. Some of you may already know from my first post, it's been a number of years since I have ridden. I have narrowed my options down to 3 bikes. The decider will be when I have a chance to test ride all 3.

    Back when I used to ride, when you bought a NEW bike you had to run it in bit by bit, gradually increasing revs, lean (for tires) etc. Is that still the case?

    Might look like a silly question, the reason I ask is because you no longer need to "run in" new cars. They are done at the factory. So whats the deal with new bikes?

  2. Just the same. Ride it normally,after all, they all get a big rev, before they are sent out.
  3. The tyres have the wax still on from the mould, so you have to be gentle to scrub that off. Suzuki still recommend you limit the revs in the first 1000 kms, and vary the engine speed otherwise. Although, there are a couple of trains of thought... personal reference in the end.
  4. Yeah, scrub the tyres in progressively. Check that they are actually set to the pressures they should be - as per the owners manual. Start gentle and gradually work up to YeeHaa! The engine, these days, just use it. Do the stuff you intend to keep doing from the beginning. Try to avoid just cruising along at one engine speed all the time, especially at the beginning.
  5. When I bought my C5 a few weeks ago, I was given a page of instructions with run in directions. Limit to 70kmph for the first 100km, limit to 80kmph up until 500km. There are also throttle limitations in the manual, though since I'm not 'allowed' to open up the throttle i really have no idea where 1/4 1/2 etc. really is :p Maybe wing an email to the manufacturers of the three bikes you're considering?
  6. bmw s1000's are computer restricted and it gets adjusted at the first service
  7. My Yamaha said 2/3 throttle max for 1000k's then 1/3 throttle for next 600k's
  8. There are lots of lovely YouTube videos of people giving brand new bikes on brand new tyres a handful as they leave the dealership and dropping them, so it's probably more important to be aware of the tyres than the engine. But as has been said, probably avoid doing a Sydney-Melbourne Hume Highway run on a new engine - better to be working it up and down the rev range. Probably work up to redline over time as well, but being careful of the tyres will take care of that anyway.
  9. I just got a new kawasaki GTR 1400 last saturday, for that bike it's below 4000rmp for the first 800km then under 6000rpm for the next 800kms, then yr away, so 1,600kms for the run-in. My brother-in-law also bought a new trumpy 675, that one has the same 'run-in' procedure as mine. Good luck on the new bike mate!
  10. Some even say that the best way to run in an engine is to thrash the shit out of it. (I'm not sure if I agree, I don't know enough about mechanical engineering). It has to do with bedding in the cylinder seals properly. Hopefully someone knows more than me about this and can comment.

    That said there's a definite consensus that you don't go hard on new tyres. Take it slow and take off the waxy shit they use to break it out of the mold before you go Rossi'ing down your favourite road.
  11. Bed your tyres in. And your brakes. The motors are pretty fine. I would not ring it's neck right off the start though. Gently strangle it a bit ha ha.
    Don't load up the bottom end and don't hold it on the limiter till after your first service @1,000k's
    But yeah. Watch out for the tyres and the pressure in them and gently does it on the brakes for the first few hundred k's. We give the demo's a fair flogging strait out of the crate and I have not managed to blow one yet.
  12. Compared to 30 years ago, engines are machined so much more accurately than in the past that running them in is a bit of a moot point IMO.

    That's not to say to thrash them out of the box, but my dealer basically said ride it like normal and ensure you aren't going too easy on it. So far, 1500km up and I have given it a bit and no issues at all.

    No doubt there is an initial bedding in process in the first few km but I doubt it is anywhere near as abrasive on the engines now than in past years. Not to mention, the "go easy" 30 years ago from manufacturers in part was to minimise chance of a seizure or damage from a seizure due to a part that wasn't quite machined perfectly.

    Biggest issue is the tyres initially I think. Beyond that, I just followed the dealer recommendations of riding it normally.
  13. Modern metalurgy is light years ahead of what used to be, even in the 70s and 80s, but I'd still stick with the manufacturer's recommendations re running in; I think it's better to get the rings and bores to learn to love each other than to throw them together in the back of a panel-van, so to speak..
  14. Thanks heaps for the replies guys, really helpfull....
  15. Depends what country it's made in.

    As I've mentioned previously on here the quality of the steel used in my mid-eighties, Japanese, Katana is far better than the Thai components in my '07 GPX. Better metallurgy just means better ability to predict whether a part will survive the warranty period or not.